1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon
06-23-2015, 03:19 PM
#121
That is interesting to know; and the donor car is equipped with this. Did you need to use any bubble to inverted flare adapters at the master? Or did you just modify/make new lines to suit?
Last edited by mOtOrHeAd MiKe; 06-23-2015 at 09:56 PM.
06-23-2015, 10:02 PM
#123
Thanks for the advice!
07-05-2015, 04:38 PM
#126
MCSS master and booster in. Cleaned up brake lines and a new disc brake prop valve. Added a bracket to do a little fuel line and wiring organization. Out back the tank is all plumbed in with -6 AN lines, including the burp line from the Astro hanger. You'll notice I chose to not reuse the old fuel lines from the '91 Z28, it feels better using new parts. The filter/regulator is hung on another quickie bracket, and all the lines are wrapped in hydraulic hose shielding because I have had some bad experiences with braided lines rubbing through.
02-15-2016, 09:24 PM
#130
This is where we are now with the tear down; engine and trans are sitting on the engine mounts ready to be plucked. The really good news is that the engine is based on an LS6 block (better bank to bank breathing blah blah blah) - which might explain why the Camaro was abnormally quick - but more importantly it means that the LS6 valley cover I bought will fit like a glove.
02-23-2016, 08:33 PM
#132
Ordered this bitch...
We all know that I am pretty anti-billet. But, a plastic power steering pump pulley spinning at a zillion RPM just doesn't work for me. Plus, I butchered the stock one getting it off; and it was ugly before I got to it - it was chipped and old.
Plus, I think I wanted an excuse to buy the pulley.
Just dropped another bucket load at Summit - key purchase: ARP head studs. I got them, with 12pt nuts, for $310 and the Summit sales rep had a ****-fit when I found that price on Amazon from ARP-proper. Felt better doing these than the $100 China studs; and the length of the OEM bolts just scream failure point.
We all know that I am pretty anti-billet. But, a plastic power steering pump pulley spinning at a zillion RPM just doesn't work for me. Plus, I butchered the stock one getting it off; and it was ugly before I got to it - it was chipped and old.
Plus, I think I wanted an excuse to buy the pulley.
Just dropped another bucket load at Summit - key purchase: ARP head studs. I got them, with 12pt nuts, for $310 and the Summit sales rep had a ****-fit when I found that price on Amazon from ARP-proper. Felt better doing these than the $100 China studs; and the length of the OEM bolts just scream failure point.
03-28-2016, 09:23 PM
#134
I am done tracing wires... for now. I just have to figure out how to get them into the cabin - as the fuse block is under hood and a bunch of connectors need to pass through the firewall and there isn't a spare 3"x2" pass through. Hmm... might just have to cut and splice. Again.
I am going to have to re-loom it after it is all laid out.
I still have to breakdown and clean up the PCM/engine/trans harness. Yippie.
I am reusing the speedo cable pass through and grommet for wiring on that side; I've already cut the wires that I needed to go through on the driver's side. I might try and source some square Type 2 weather pack connectors. Might.
Then I drilled a 1.5" hole on the passenger floor where the radio antenna would normally pass through and reusing the grommet from a '91 Z28. Which made me wonder how the radio worked if the fender antenna was run. It isn't. Just a snipped wire dangling inside the fender. FML I thought. Then I noticed that it has a windshield antenna - go figure. But, then again I haven't touched this car for months.
Here is where I am at. Ran the harness under the dash, the BCM is in the kick panel and all the spare "future consideration" wires are in the plastic run under the sill plate, the neutral safety switch wires are lined up with the shifter, the ALDL and brake wires are in place. I do need to remove the stock cruise control box as it won't be needed.
I also laid out the fuse blocks and the PCM/ECM wiring; and if you can't tell I need to extend the wires for the cruise control and friends about 30" or so. Then I grabbed the cruise control module and gave it a trial fit. And finally since I was in such a good mood I decided to treat myself to running the throttle cable - I hooked a spring to the engine side and sat in the car making vroom vroom noises and rowing through the notional gears.
And that pile of wires is the aftermath of a month's worth of evenings and weekends.
I am going to have to re-loom it after it is all laid out.
I still have to breakdown and clean up the PCM/engine/trans harness. Yippie.
I am reusing the speedo cable pass through and grommet for wiring on that side; I've already cut the wires that I needed to go through on the driver's side. I might try and source some square Type 2 weather pack connectors. Might.
Then I drilled a 1.5" hole on the passenger floor where the radio antenna would normally pass through and reusing the grommet from a '91 Z28. Which made me wonder how the radio worked if the fender antenna was run. It isn't. Just a snipped wire dangling inside the fender. FML I thought. Then I noticed that it has a windshield antenna - go figure. But, then again I haven't touched this car for months.
Here is where I am at. Ran the harness under the dash, the BCM is in the kick panel and all the spare "future consideration" wires are in the plastic run under the sill plate, the neutral safety switch wires are lined up with the shifter, the ALDL and brake wires are in place. I do need to remove the stock cruise control box as it won't be needed.
I also laid out the fuse blocks and the PCM/ECM wiring; and if you can't tell I need to extend the wires for the cruise control and friends about 30" or so. Then I grabbed the cruise control module and gave it a trial fit. And finally since I was in such a good mood I decided to treat myself to running the throttle cable - I hooked a spring to the engine side and sat in the car making vroom vroom noises and rowing through the notional gears.
And that pile of wires is the aftermath of a month's worth of evenings and weekends.
03-29-2016, 09:52 AM
#135
Oh... and if you ever wanted to know how wiring in the BCM could be beneficial here is a great little article: http://www.fieros.de/en/articles/BCM.html
04-05-2016, 08:48 PM
#136
Its alive!
Electronically at least. I got the PCM to talk to me, scanned it and wrote to it. I was making sure that VATS was turned off, had to set it to "P/N" for the neutral safety switch on the shifter, and turned off the "shifter lock" function (just in case).
I also finished extending the wires - so very un-engaging. Now I just have to finish routing the wires, wire in the Boost-A-Pump/hot wire to the fuel pump, terminate the SpeedHutgauge leads, connect the cruise control and AC wires, securely mount the underhood fuse blocks and the PCM, and finish looming it up. Ugh.
Electronically at least. I got the PCM to talk to me, scanned it and wrote to it. I was making sure that VATS was turned off, had to set it to "P/N" for the neutral safety switch on the shifter, and turned off the "shifter lock" function (just in case).
I also finished extending the wires - so very un-engaging. Now I just have to finish routing the wires, wire in the Boost-A-Pump/hot wire to the fuel pump, terminate the SpeedHutgauge leads, connect the cruise control and AC wires, securely mount the underhood fuse blocks and the PCM, and finish looming it up. Ugh.
04-10-2016, 09:12 PM
#138
Been battling a serious cold so progress was slow this weekend. That being said I did manage to connect all of the main circuits to the spare/unused Maxi fuses at the LS1 fuse-blocks - eliminating the need for fusible links; including the BCM. I also wired up the Boost-A-Pump with a dedicated relay and 10ga wires for the power. Because sending 16 volts down a 0.5mm wire just didn't make much sense; I am still undecided if it will be a 10ga or 8ga wire going back to the tank. Either way it sure beats using just a hotwire. The BAP will be triggered by the nitrous kit when activated - I just have to decide if it is going to be on the hit or when the system is armed.
04-17-2016, 09:28 PM
#139
Does anyone know if it is normal to have about 10 volts at the Lt Blue wire (next to Org, and Wht) coming off the brake switch harness with the Key On? My diagrams show that this is for the 3rd/High Level Brake light. I get the full 12 volts across the switch when the pedal is pressed. This 10 volt thing is driving me crazy!
Okay so here is the deal with the Lt Blu wire:
Key Off = 0V
Key Off & Brake pedal depressed = 12V
Key On = 10.5V (settles in at around 9.5V)
Key On & Brake pedal depressed = 12V
The diagram attached (straight out of the 1986 Buick service manual) does not indicate a constant voltage of any kind on that Lt Blu wire. So either I have a short, a crossed circuit getting fed from a Key On source, or maybe a bad or disconnected ground? All wild *** guesses here. The funny thing is that I have no real need for that circuit as the main harness is from my Monte Carlo - as wagons do not require/have provisions for the third brake light (aka High Level Stop Light) normally - and could just clip the wire and call it a day. Because what I do need is to be putting 12V to the piggybacked Lt Blu wire when the brake pedal is depressed for the Camaro's cruise control module.
I've attached photos of the brake switches I am using for reference. The top one is OEM to a '02 Camaro and the bottom one is OEM to an '87 MCSS; the wires in the rear portion of the bottom switch are from the '02 Camaro cruise control.
So if anyone can take a moment and check the following voltages for the Lt Blu wire I would really appreciate it.
Key Off =
Key Off & Brake pedal depressed =
Key On =
Key On & Brake pedal depressed =
Oh and here is how the wiring is laying down from the Camaro fuse blocks back - getting there slowly; cruise control is wired up. Even hooked up the SES light feed from the BCM to the dash too.
Okay so here is the deal with the Lt Blu wire:
Key Off = 0V
Key Off & Brake pedal depressed = 12V
Key On = 10.5V (settles in at around 9.5V)
Key On & Brake pedal depressed = 12V
The diagram attached (straight out of the 1986 Buick service manual) does not indicate a constant voltage of any kind on that Lt Blu wire. So either I have a short, a crossed circuit getting fed from a Key On source, or maybe a bad or disconnected ground? All wild *** guesses here. The funny thing is that I have no real need for that circuit as the main harness is from my Monte Carlo - as wagons do not require/have provisions for the third brake light (aka High Level Stop Light) normally - and could just clip the wire and call it a day. Because what I do need is to be putting 12V to the piggybacked Lt Blu wire when the brake pedal is depressed for the Camaro's cruise control module.
I've attached photos of the brake switches I am using for reference. The top one is OEM to a '02 Camaro and the bottom one is OEM to an '87 MCSS; the wires in the rear portion of the bottom switch are from the '02 Camaro cruise control.
So if anyone can take a moment and check the following voltages for the Lt Blu wire I would really appreciate it.
Key Off =
Key Off & Brake pedal depressed =
Key On =
Key On & Brake pedal depressed =
Oh and here is how the wiring is laying down from the Camaro fuse blocks back - getting there slowly; cruise control is wired up. Even hooked up the SES light feed from the BCM to the dash too.
04-30-2016, 12:44 AM
#140
TECH Enthusiast
Thanks for all of the pictures. Really loving this build. Have an old 78 lemans sitting in the yard, 9 inch and everything. Makes me want to fiddle with it.