1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon
05-08-2016, 09:10 PM
#142
Completely forgot to update this here since there was zero feedback. Done knocking the sand out of my vag...
Finally got the fuel pump hooked up. I had to create a breakout harness for the fuel level sender signal and low reference wires which go back to C230 for the ECM (which runs back to the sending unit). Totally unnecessary for a swap, but I do want to ensure total functionality wherever possible. I also elected to run an 8 gauge wire from the BAP to the pump to carry the 16+ volts and whatever amperage is drawn. To the credit of Spectra they used some pretty hefty wiring in the harness on the sending unit.
I also had to create a tach lead off of C105 (pin G) so that I could feed my tach, N20 window switch, and the remote starter. This wire does not exist when using a non-traction control harness.
So on Dave's advice I tried to light a light with the ~10V present in the circuit. And...
Using a 194 bulb-sized socket, and a 194-sized LED and a standard 194 incandescent bulb I get the following results:
1. Key On & Using the LED = the faintest of illumination;
2. Key On & Using the standard bulb = no illumination;
3. Brake pedal pressed & Using the LED = blinded Mike; and
4. Brake pedal pressed & Using the standard bulb = the sweet warm glow of a generation lost.
Looks like it is a possible ground issue. I am going to try a jumper from the frame to the body to see if that aids the situation.
In other news I can now run a lead for a third brake light - wagons need all the help they can get.
Using a 194 bulb-sized socket, and a 194-sized LED and a standard 194 incandescent bulb I get the following results:
1. Key On & Using the LED = the faintest of illumination;
2. Key On & Using the standard bulb = no illumination;
3. Brake pedal pressed & Using the LED = blinded Mike; and
4. Brake pedal pressed & Using the standard bulb = the sweet warm glow of a generation lost.
Looks like it is a possible ground issue. I am going to try a jumper from the frame to the body to see if that aids the situation.
In other news I can now run a lead for a third brake light - wagons need all the help they can get.
I also had to create a tach lead off of C105 (pin G) so that I could feed my tach, N20 window switch, and the remote starter. This wire does not exist when using a non-traction control harness.
05-15-2016, 08:15 PM
#145
So the Hookers showed up; and who doesn't love Hookers?
I wired in a micro-relay to ground the "CHOKE" light when the cruise control is activated. There is a diode on the signal wire to the relay to ensure that it is only listening and cannot back feed any interference into the ECM (you know, just in case).
I wired in a micro-relay to ground the "CHOKE" light when the cruise control is activated. There is a diode on the signal wire to the relay to ensure that it is only listening and cannot back feed any interference into the ECM (you know, just in case).
Last edited by mOtOrHeAd MiKe; 05-15-2016 at 08:22 PM.
06-25-2016, 09:07 PM
#146
Finished up the engine harness, and finished looming the rest of the wiring (less the stuff along the fire wall. Next I need to pull the inner fenders/fender liners out of the donor car. Once I am done that I should be able to move along to the mechanicals again very soon.
06-26-2016, 09:24 PM
#147
Well I pulled the brown turd '81 Lemans parts car into the garage today and got to tearing into it. I got both virgin plastic fender liners out. They looked like they had been Rhino-lined the grime was so thick, it actually chipped off it was that old. I soaked them both in WD-40 (because mineral spirits) and set them out in the sun for an hour; and then went at them with the pressure washer and a scraper. After they had dried it time for more scrapping and more WD-40 - using my old wool Army socks really helped work the last of the goo off.
I will say this: I am glad I bought a complete unmolested parts car.
Because I have no idea what car the fender liners that came in the wagon were out of... but, it sure wasn't a Lemans. Anyway, it looks like wire and accessory management will be much improved with these non-hacked up liners in place - plus the amount of crap tossed up in the fenders will be greatly reduced.
I will say this: I am glad I bought a complete unmolested parts car.
Because I have no idea what car the fender liners that came in the wagon were out of... but, it sure wasn't a Lemans. Anyway, it looks like wire and accessory management will be much improved with these non-hacked up liners in place - plus the amount of crap tossed up in the fenders will be greatly reduced.
07-06-2016, 10:28 PM
#151
Hung the tailpipes... getting the MCSS hangers off my Monte and onto the wagon was a long and frustrating process. The Pypes exhaust seems to fit the wagon really well around the gas tank and the spare tire well.
Then the UMI Roto-joint control arms went in, followed by the Bilsteins, and finally the S60. I will put the backing plates on the axles soon and load it all up. I will need to set up the e-brake cables and run the solid brake lines to the flex hoses.
I am just grateful for the freed-up floor and shelf space.
Then the UMI Roto-joint control arms went in, followed by the Bilsteins, and finally the S60. I will put the backing plates on the axles soon and load it all up. I will need to set up the e-brake cables and run the solid brake lines to the flex hoses.
I am just grateful for the freed-up floor and shelf space.
07-14-2016, 09:42 PM
#154
Made a little more progress on the wagon's S60 install (nothing ever truly bolts in: https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...questions.html) but, the wedding rings got pressed on today - which means that I can stab the axles in. In the meantime I have been working on the brackets for the e-brake cables and caliper hard/flex lines. As well, I figured out how to get the front Matrix/Vibe springs to work using the upper strut mounts from a TrailBlazer (just happened to have a spare pair), stock G-body pigtail insulators, and a little bit of heater hose. The picture is the new springs compared to a stock cut spring from my MCSS (28" ride height); both are at 13" free height. Installed and the weight of the wagon on the springs it is right in the middle of the suspension travel. Works for me. As for the weight jacker setup, I will put in coil-over springs as helpers later on.
Last edited by mOtOrHeAd MiKe; 07-15-2016 at 05:52 AM.
11-04-2016, 09:45 PM
#155
Somebody needs to take this project off of pause.
The rear wheels, the Ronal R15s, are in Windsor with my brother ready to go to WeldCraft in Michigan for widening. Aiming for a final size of 17x11 for mounting the 345/40R17 Toyo TQ drag radials on.
Managed to get this idea out of my head and into reality. -6AN bulkheads, and a cantilever bracket using factory holes in the core support to get that pesky B&M transcooler mounted.
The rear wheels, the Ronal R15s, are in Windsor with my brother ready to go to WeldCraft in Michigan for widening. Aiming for a final size of 17x11 for mounting the 345/40R17 Toyo TQ drag radials on.
Managed to get this idea out of my head and into reality. -6AN bulkheads, and a cantilever bracket using factory holes in the core support to get that pesky B&M transcooler mounted.
11-29-2016, 04:34 PM
#157
My brother just picked up my wheels from Weldcraft. These might be (?) the only set of 17x11 R15s in the world. The only reason these could be widened to the outside is because they are a "reverse mount" style wheel and have a non-stepped lip. I kind of want to polish/powdercoat the lips now vs. respraying them all black. Cost is a factor, as is time - I should probably just work toward getting the 345s mounted and the wagon on the ground and running.
Turns out that the lip is just shy of 4" deep.
Turns out that the lip is just shy of 4" deep.
Last edited by mOtOrHeAd MiKe; 11-30-2016 at 08:11 PM.
12-03-2016, 09:45 PM
#160
As I continue to chronically avoid finishing this project mechanically - I present my latest distraction: bling!
Plasti-dipped the grille and bezels to hide 30 years of weathered chrome and pitted pot-metal a few weeks ago; did the same to the knackered Pontiac emblem and text tonight. Made a quick bracket and added a GTO emblem, and topped off the million different type-fonts with a set of RAM AIR decals. Nothing says Poncho performance like copious amounts of stickers and badges.
Plasti-dipped the grille and bezels to hide 30 years of weathered chrome and pitted pot-metal a few weeks ago; did the same to the knackered Pontiac emblem and text tonight. Made a quick bracket and added a GTO emblem, and topped off the million different type-fonts with a set of RAM AIR decals. Nothing says Poncho performance like copious amounts of stickers and badges.