i have a 98 ls1 thats going into a 89 foxbody.what oil pan to use ive heard ctvs pan not sure and which oil pump with the swap pan

 

Come on guys it's a million foxbody swaps on here I no some one could help

 

Yes, the CTSV pan is the way to go, I had one in my fox body swap. You can also use the hot rod pan but that hangs a little below the stock cross member.

 

Fbody pan here.

 

yeah and if you bothered to look at any one of them you would see that either the cts-v or camaro pan fit perfectly.

 

I posted help with pan not help from a smart ***

 

Does it clear the aftermarket k member or hang low

 

When you use the ctvs pan did you have to run a special oil pump

 

I have a 98 vette engine and oil pan still on will it work

 

if it is from a vette, it should already be a low profile pan. They arent known for having big pans on them unless the goofy looking batwing pan. stock pump should be fine, just make sure you also get the pickup tube and windage tray with the pan. I only paid $120 for mine after Jegs sent me two banged up sets with crap flying inside the box.

check my sig for the build. It aint perfect or pretty, but it is not far from running.

 

I tested some motor mounts for Dirty Dingo for the LS/fox body swap, so I have tried the F body, CTSV, and Hot Rod pan with stock and tubular k members. The f body pan required the factory K member to be notched, but you could use it. The CTSV pan bolts right in but is pretty expensive. All used the stock oil pump but had to use the windage tray and pickup dedicated to each pan.

 

I used the hot rod pan on mine with a aje k-member it sits at the same height as my trans pan. I'm happy with it and its cheap.

 

I used 98 Z28 pan along with AJE-swap K-member. I will try to get a pic, but I think it fits fine and not too low

 

The fbody pan should fit with the aftermarket k members. I have one on my Maximum Motorsports 4.6 k member using modified 4.6 mounts and no mod motor mount adapters, it fits fine.

The pic does not show the rack, but there is about 1/2" clearance between the rack and the pan WITHOUT using the mod motor adapter plates (3/8" thick). This clearance measurement is with the MM bumpsteer adjusters setting the rack upwards 3/8". This pic is also with the engine set forward .180". I am making new motor mounts to move the engine back .500" (hopefully) behind the normal mounting position (.680" back from where it is), and down as low as I can get it (probably .500"-.550"). I hammered the firewall with a 20 lb sledge to clearance the passenger side cylinder head to be able to move the engine back this far, while still being able to drop it in the engine bay with the T56 attached.

You cannot see it in the picture, but the bottom of the fbody oil pan sump sits above the bottom of the MM k member by at least 1.5 inches. The minimum clearance area is between the front of the pan and the steering rack.

Using a .375" thick mod motor mount adapter plate would put the engine .265" higher in the chassis and give you an additional .265" clearance. If you put the rack in the standard position, you would have another .375" clearance. If you are building a drag car with front skinnies, you could reverse the rack adjusters and drop the rack for additional clearance. Bumpsteer with skinnies is irrelevant.

The modified motor mounts are just cheapo CJ Pony Parts solid mounts which I cut and bent and welded 3/16" angle steel onto.

I honestly don't see how you will make a batwing oil pan work. There is a reason they are cheap, it is because nobody wants them.

 

i used a cts-v pan with team Z k member no problems.

 

he didnt ask for any smart assedness

 

Team Z has a new k member that you can use ANY oil pan with. I have one with the f body pan.

 

Fbody pan in my 99 gt here

 

I used the AJE k member. Truck pan was too low for me. Muscle car pan, same thing, but better. The F-body pan was perfect and fit nice.