Root2812

iTrader: (1)

Yours looks great. I guess I know who to ask questions. You're not too far away so maybe when you are done with your build I'll see it at some shows.

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys. So when I picked up my engine it was already out of the truck and I never got to hear it run. I know it was a risk but the price was right. This weekend I was going to get it up on a stand to clean it up and check it out. I'm a long way from it running but I was hoping you guys could give me some things to do to check and see if I have a good motor or not. I really hate to get it all painted, dressed up, and installed only to find out its bad.

So far I thought I could do a compression check. Anything else you guys would do?

If I can determine that block and heads are good to go then I'll be happy. I don't mind dealing with bum sensors or gaskets later. I'd just hate to have to remove the motor because of bad rings or something. Incase it matters, the engine is a 2000 5.3 with supposedly 180,000 miles.

By the way, what range of compression should I see during the compression test?

On another note, my new LS6 intake is on its way. It should be here this week.

Thanks

243

I loved the floor starter on my '52, good luck with the build and sorry to hear your LS was damaged in transit.

gagliano7

Just remember when you go with the car intake you will have to change the belt drive setup and water pump to a car setup. At least that is what i have read in the past. Just make sure before you go to far.

51 chevy

WOW !! guys glad to jump in on this one. I am currently building a 51 Chevy truck. In fact i am about 2 days away from firing the engine for the first time. I just started a thread about that. My engine is a 4.8, my harness builder talked me into keeping the truck intake. I am using the original frame with a mustang 2 front end, with a 4 link rear. The appearance is nothing to look at now, but after 2.5 years I decided to get it running and finish the build as I go!! Every nut and bolt has been replaced, disc brakes all the way around etc...

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you have almost exactly what I want to build. I'd like to see your thread and some pictures.

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I am aware of the accessory drive issue. I need a new water pump anyways so I am going to try the 2010+ Camaro pump. Its got the same pulley spacing as the truck but the hose connection comes out the front. I've heard that works. If it doesn't, the guy who sold me my intake can get me an accessory drive from either an f body or a corvette (He has a few sets).

Its too bad I have to swap so many things to get the car intake on the motor but for me the look under the hood at shows will be worth it.

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I also love the cool factor of the floor starter. A lot of people have no idea how to start my truck. I won't be able to keep it with the new motor so I may do a hidden push button for added security.

It sucked that the intake was broke but he sent me another one and it should be here this week. If I can fix the old one with epoxy I'll have a spare for free, if not I'm out nothing. My dad is old school so he is nervous about trying a swap with a modern fuel injected motor, apparently its all the wires and the computer. He calls my swap the guinea pig. He did tell me that if I am successful he is going to take my spare intake for himself and put an LS into his 67 GTO Convertible. I say a car like that needs something big. 6.0?

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

My new intake arrived and it is in perfect shape. I really inspected the rear where the last one broke and it looked good. The part the the MAP sensor goes into hooks into the intake and has a orange o ring in it, how much wiggle should there be if I wiggle it? It moves some but thats probably just play in the rubber o-ring but I want to know if it should have no play or not.

mighty mex

iTrader: (3)

If I remember correctly, there really shouldn't be much play at all. Just check it once you fire the motor. Listen for a vacuum leak or spray some brake parts cleaner around the area to see if it is in fact leaking. What kind of front suspension and oil pan are you using on your truck?? Are you going to keep it stock ride height or have it nice and low?? I ask because I should, hopefully, start an LS swap into my 48 5 window truck soon. Thanks in adavance....

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

I am going to be using a Fatman Fabrications IFS kit. The kit will give me power steering and disk brakes and has a 3-4 inch drop built in with regular spindles. I don't want the 2 inch drop spindles because I think it will be low enough after I put smaller tires on (another inch down). Since its a static drop I don't want it too low. Look at the picture of the truck I posted and imagine 4-5 inches down.

For the oil pan I know I will need a different one. I will probably go with an F-body, corvette, or CTSV pan. I have seen guys just mount the motor higher and keep the stock pan but it requires too much floor modification for me.

When you start your build please share the link to you thread. Good Luck.

mighty mex

iTrader: (3)

Ok thanks. I will!

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

Today I ordered my IFS kit from Fatman. I should hopefully have it installed by the end of the month. Once I get my rear suspension squared away I can start dropping in the motor.

I thought long and hard about the advice given here and I have decided to go with the 4l60E instead of the 700r4. I gave the 700r4 to my dad for use in his 283 powered 57 chevy. It came down to cost and installation. By the time I bought the adapter and the tv cable I'd almost be at what a used 4l60e cost and the 4l60e will be easyer to hook up. I still need to get the tranny but one step at a time. That IFS just cost me $2100 so it will be a while before more parts get bought.

tfi racing

iTrader: (2)

Ya gotta keep the floor start button-a Ford starter relay,push button switch,a bit of wiring and fab it can be done.I realize there is already more than enough work to do and money to spend-but...

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys. Have any of you used these dirty dingo mounts?
http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.ph...=1_206_305_321

I think I like the design and they look strong but I'd like to hear feedback before I drop that much money. Its either going to be those or these.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-LS...unts,7631.html

It looks like the Dirty Dingo mounts will have more flexibility and might be easier to install on my flat boxed frame rails.

thanks

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

While cool and stout looking, I don't see the benefit of the adjustable Dirty Dingo mounts. You are welding them in place and the engine location is dictated by several things - like the oil pan sump, steering linkage and firewall. I've never had a car where I could slide the engine fore or aft more than 0.5" without changing something else so that isn't a selling feature to me. Moving the engine because you changed transmissions never happens in my experience. Every time I've done, seen or heard of it the transmission crossmember was modified to work with the new transmission.

Since you are welding anyway, do the Speedway mounts and save a bit of cash. We just did something similar (built our own) on a friends car and it was simple, clean and worked really well.

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the feed back. I liked the dirty dingo mounts because they looked easy to use for a first timer. It looks like they would go onto flat frame rails easy. Adjustability isn't something I have to have but I think it may help me out. The space between the radiator and firewall is barely big enough to squeeze the LS in and since my core support isn't on the frame I may need to fine tune later. My truck is on the 1950 frame but I am building a spare frame I have laying around and will swap bodies later. Nothing was precision made in those days so the adjustability may be needed when I do the body swap.

The speedway ones look like I would need to be dead on when I weld the first time. I do like cheaper though.

51 chevy

Root 2812
Looks like your gauges are in good shape. If you are interested in a brand new set (in box) v8 12 volt maybe we can work out something.It takes way more work and no how to get them to work with my set up.

Root2812

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys. So I got my front suspension in and now I am turning my attention to the motor and transmission. I still havn't picked up a tranny so I am hoping for some help.

For those skipping the earlier posts, my motor is a 2000 5.3 from a Silverado.

I am having trouble finding good budget deals on a 2wd 4l60e and I think I may have found one but I wanted to hear all of your opinions. Will a 2wd tranny from a 2001 Silverado that had only a 4.8L work for me? I think it would be the same but I'm not sure. When I use car-part.com and do a search for 2000 5.3 2wd trannys I get different results than if I look for 4.8 trannys. I was thinking the difference may be something that doesn't matter on a swap like this.

Please share your wisdom.

mcfarlnd

iTrader: (15)

There isn't a difference for a 4l60e between a 4.8 and 5.3. Either will work. However some 4.8s came with an NV3500 5-speed manual trans.