1993 Porsche 911 lsx g5052 build
10-21-2013, 07:45 AM
#50
Launching!
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Holy **** ! I can't believe I am just not seeing this thread. *sub'd*
At anyrate,nice build and ironically enough,I just seen a craigslist add with a newer 996 I think it was. Car was LS1 swapped for all the same reasons you are doing one. Personally,I don't see why more people aren't swapping LSX's into Porche chassies and then racing them.
At anyrate,nice build and ironically enough,I just seen a craigslist add with a newer 996 I think it was. Car was LS1 swapped for all the same reasons you are doing one. Personally,I don't see why more people aren't swapping LSX's into Porche chassies and then racing them.
10-21-2013, 12:33 PM
#52
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this car, has spherical bearings in all the suspension pivots instead of suspension bushings. 4 piston brembos on all 4 corners. it has monoball strut tops all around, full cage, monster sway bars with adjustable links, bilstein nurburgring adjustable coilovers, etc etc... even tho its just a street car, it would be a track killer too.
10-22-2013, 03:14 AM
#54
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ok... I see others building the 911/lsx combos on here and other forums. several are having coolant issues. let me help as I have built several of these cars with success.
first, most of the 911 conversions are done with front mounted radiators. rear mounted can be done but will take more tweaking to get some of the issues you will run into.
you need to start with at least a griffin 16x26/core dual or triple row aluminum radiator with dual 12" spal fans.
pcm needs to be set at 180/165 ish for fans
meziere 55gpm remote electric water pump
good air inlet size, and sealed around the sides ducting box to direct hot air out whether under the car, thru the hood or out the tail depending on location of radiator.
these are absolute minimums, there are other factors but are budget driven on the direction you go.
I live in Oklahoma and have driven these cars with this setup during the HOT summer months in 110 degree heat with no overheating issues with the ac on.
best of luck and happy motoring, hopefully I can help others. my .02
first, most of the 911 conversions are done with front mounted radiators. rear mounted can be done but will take more tweaking to get some of the issues you will run into.
you need to start with at least a griffin 16x26/core dual or triple row aluminum radiator with dual 12" spal fans.
pcm needs to be set at 180/165 ish for fans
meziere 55gpm remote electric water pump
good air inlet size, and sealed around the sides ducting box to direct hot air out whether under the car, thru the hood or out the tail depending on location of radiator.
these are absolute minimums, there are other factors but are budget driven on the direction you go.
I live in Oklahoma and have driven these cars with this setup during the HOT summer months in 110 degree heat with no overheating issues with the ac on.
best of luck and happy motoring, hopefully I can help others. my .02
10-22-2013, 04:58 AM
#55
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cobalt964, thanks for the info. I am pretty much on the same page with your recommendations. My setup has the single 16" Spal. Everything seems to be working now after the tune but will have to wait for the true test next summer. I can't get the car above 190 right now. It is a little cooler outside. If Sunday is nice I will take it to the drag strip and see how the car does. The trip to the strip will be the test. The only thing I have not tackled is heating the car. It makes it a little more difficult with the rear radiator. Any suggestions? Great build!
10-22-2013, 05:53 AM
#56
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yan for heat, check your radiator for auto trans ports. if so, an fitting them to hoses under the rear of the car near the trans area. use a trans cooler with a fan, build a stainless box with 2x 2" outlets on it on the hotside of the cooler. duct the outlets to the factory Porsche heater ducts under the rear seat area. if you don't have a radiator with trans ports still can be done by tapping into the radiator hoses with a t or y, or putting a t or y at one of the coolant hot side ports.
ps I don't remember if you are using a renegade kit or not. if you are the f log has a heater bung tapped into it already. but you still need to choose where you return it.
ps I don't remember if you are using a renegade kit or not. if you are the f log has a heater bung tapped into it already. but you still need to choose where you return it.
10-22-2013, 05:36 PM
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I can easily tap into my 1.25 hose and put one of the f block style things from Renegade. I have their kit. Have you already put heat in your car this way and do you get ample heat? What size fan is on the tranny cooler? What size in and out line on the cooler? Same as the fblock? One fan or two? Any photos?
I would love to use the stock tubes for heat. There is so little room but I can find it. The other thought was to use a heater core or electric heater that was "T" into the fresh air blower on the front firewall under the window. I thought I could have a power switch to operate either electric heat and use the fresh air blower to bring it in the cabin or have a heater core and have the switch operate an auxiliary water pump just for the heater core. Those were my current thoughts. I have had a few thoughts on this matter. I even thought of running 2 two inch flex hoses near my radiator fan. I thought that could certainly push some hot air up front.
I would love to use the stock tubes for heat. There is so little room but I can find it. The other thought was to use a heater core or electric heater that was "T" into the fresh air blower on the front firewall under the window. I thought I could have a power switch to operate either electric heat and use the fresh air blower to bring it in the cabin or have a heater core and have the switch operate an auxiliary water pump just for the heater core. Those were my current thoughts. I have had a few thoughts on this matter. I even thought of running 2 two inch flex hoses near my radiator fan. I thought that could certainly push some hot air up front.
10-22-2013, 09:21 PM
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I have built several with heat with the renegade setup and it works good. this current car I don't have it plumbed in yet. will be doing the same thing tho. some sort of coolant fill/overflow tank, can link it in with the main coolant overflow tank. aluminum cooler with 10" spal fan tied to original dash heat switch so it works as stock. plumb it into the original factory heat ducts under the rear seat area of the car. works as original that way. less work for you this way and functions similar to oem.
Last edited by cobalt964; 10-31-2013 at 10:47 PM.
10-22-2013, 09:36 PM
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the renegade kit is really a good kit. with that said, I now use my own kit. it is similar to the renegade kit other than I use billet an fittings instead of the plastic gann fittings they use. I use exclusively nascar meziere coolant products thruout with the exception of the radiator. I use a nascar derivitave 3 core aluminum cross flow radiator with dual spal fans. I use billet 7075 motor mounts and billet 7075 trans mounts. my fuel tank is a billet race fuel cell. my Porsche/lsx cradle is designed to be able to use truck accessories and truck headers or fbody or corvette, which ever you prefer. theirs can only be used with fbody and corvette so in the end you will spend more on their stuff.
my kit is very top shelf parts, in my opinion you get what you pay for.
my kit is very top shelf parts, in my opinion you get what you pay for.