Andy1

At the time, I was unable to find out what the tooth count was on the 944 cam sprocket, hence I made my own. Turns out mine is 40 tooth as well. Thanks for the info!

Andy1

cobalt964

yan sounds good email me.

andy I like to repurpose parts if I can, otherwise I just build it myself.

thank you to all for your positive comments.

yan2947

Did you ever seen Carson's 993 build on his heater unit. Sounds like yours also. Here it is:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...3tt-ls1-5.html

Looking forward to your build photos and my future heater you are soon to build!

cobalt964

I just read his thread, good build. his unit is using an existing heater core from something and making a box. I use a prebuilt cooler install a spal fan on it and build and aluminum capture box with outlets. my unit is smaller than his. which is good for space constraints under the car. nothing against his just using it as a comparison.

cobalt964

the hayden unit is just as effective as the cbr unit heat wise. at a certain point heat soak and fan air volume become limiting. the cbr unit could be more effective if I didn't have to build my capture box so thin for space constraints. the cbr is a show piece as much as a heater. the 964 is a show and go kinda car. I will use it as a mule to help sell my kits so its getting extra cash thrown at it if you will, lol.

cobalt964

the finished dimensions of the hayden or hayes cooler with spal fan and capture box is 12" x12" by 6" thick. the dimensions on the cbr box is 14"x12" by 9" thick.

cobalt964

ac wise, I run the gm ls truck compressor with the gm ls truck bracket on the motor in stock configuration and have custom ac lines made from Porsche to gm. I then integrate the cutoff and thermo switches into the Porsche dash ac controls. this allows the dash to function as original intended use. my goal is always simplicity and effectiveness.

yan2947

Sounds great. It is all aluminum I assume? The 6" thick includes the depth of the fan or the depth of the box? The box will have to outlets - 2" - and one will go to the driver's side and one will go to the passenger side duct?

Can't wait!

cobalt964

yan, yes the hayden or hayes units are 6" thick overall with fan, cooler, and capture box. yes it has 2x 2" outlets, one for drivers side, one for passenger side. yes the cooler and box are aluminum with stainless hardware. you will need to tie it into your coolant system, and wire it into your dash hvac controls. I supply and return mine on the hot side coolant line. and I have an overflow/burp bypass that goes to the main coolant overflow tank.

yan2947

Thanks Mike! 1/2 " barbed? or larger? I know I have one from Renegades somewhere. Not sure what size but whatever you recommend I will get now. I guess I can somehow get a "T" for my overflow tank to allow my radiator overflow and the cooler overflow. Not sure what you mean by that you supply and return yours on the hot side of the coolant line." One line would get hot coolant before the thermostat and obviously before it goes into the radiator. The other side, where the cooled coolant from the heater box goes, that must "T" into the line before or after the electric water pump. I have a water pump on the return side of my radiator and the thermostat is on the way to the radiator. Hope that makes sense.

cobalt964

on the hot side of the coolant system, since you have a renegade setup, they have the f log tapped for heat or sensor or both. you could pull it and return it into the f log if you wish and t the sensor into one of the lines. I also have an inline shutoff so I can turn off the heater box basically for the summer months. just a thought for you. where is your Porsche temp sensor, not the gm one for the pcm but the one that runs the dash gauge? in the renegade f log? if so you can relocate it to the cylinder head and use the 2 ports in the f log for heat.

yan2947

I do not use my f log any longer. I have a one in and one out electric water pump. The f log is for one in and two out. I still have it in a box. My temp sensor is in the cylinder head for my gauge. Not sure if there would be a reason to have the shutoff especially if my flaps worked. I assume that would prevent any heat from coming up through the duct work. Snap some photos when you install yours.

thanks!

cobalt964

my meziere is a single 1.5 in and 2x 1.0 outs. so I push a lot of coolant. I will shoot some pics of it and send them to you as we go

cobalt964

building an upper end aluminum heater for a customer. decided to use a derale performance cooler, better quality than hayden or hayes. spal fan, with aluminum capture box.

yan2947

I took out the same meziere and switched to a 50 gpm instead of the 55 gpm one you have. I am using toy jets water pump adapter which has one in and one out. It is a cleaner fit. I really can't tell what water pump is better. Push more coolant through the system or let it sit a little longer in the radiator. I do know that when I got rid of my thermostat things got hotter, faster. The thermostat slows things down a bit. I already have 1/8 holes in it to allow coolant flow when coolant is too cool. In pursuit of answers as to why things were getting hot one suggestion was to slow the coolant down a bit. In reality I will probably never know if that helped. What probably helped was tuning the car on the dyno. Only the summer will tell.

cobalt964

im pretty sure you and I can figure it out if you still have issues in the summer heat

cobalt964

do you still have the original meziere? I am building another car as well. wanna do some trade out lol

yan2947

Sounds like a plan. I do have the original Meziere. Here are some photos:

cobalt964

pm sent

cobalt964

grainy pic, and was 1am so camera light didn't show up so well. cardboard cut outs of my idea of the hood vents.



post script; these are prelim vent ideas, but whatever I end up with I will back the hood with balsa and fiberglass to I don't take strength from it when I cut it. then will install small diamond hole grate metal behind the cutouts in black powder coat when finished.