Raptor_WS6

iTrader: (23)

yeah. the need the elbows.

it also looks like there is no PCV. he routed the back of the driver side valve cover to the intake.

the way it should be routed is the real cover to the pcv into the intake port on the snout. and the passenger valve cover front elbow to the throttle body

pm me your address and i will send you an extra passenger valve cover i have laying around. you just have to remove the paint and repaint it


edit like this.

red is pcv valve. skip the catch can routing and plug pcv into intake

yerny

Thank you very much for your generous offer, but I have one question. Is there a way to pop out the elbows so I don't have to change out the valve cover?

Raptor_WS6

iTrader: (23)

idk really, never tried. dont want to mess up a perfectly good cover.
i can send you the cover and you try it haha

Raptor_WS6

iTrader: (23)

also, i would change the cover to the cover that only has one elbow in the passenger side. that way you dont run the y that splits the lines like so

green line


or 10 on here

Raptor_WS6

iTrader: (23)

the stock PCV lines ARE expensive. like over 100 bux expensive

Jason454

It sounds like the builder built the whole car for 28k. Not just a engine swap. 28k is a hefty amount to install a engine but a bargain when you're talking paint, drivetrain, interior etc. Granted it should run and drive correctly and you should have gotten everything you originally bought and we're promised.

yerny

PM Sent - let me know shipping cost.

Thanks,
Bryan

yerny

To the several people who said vacuum leak, yup there was one. On the back of the intake manifold there's a smaller HVAC (I think) port. It was not capped off, easy fix there. Still need to address PCV valve, but thanks to Raptor_WS6 that'll be solved soon as well. Fuel pump en-route to address fuel pressure issue too. After fixing all those issues, we'll see if she runs or if there's a wiring/tune issue.

BTW, it never even idled when I got the car. I had to manually adjust a set screw on the throttle body to bring up RPMs so it would idle. Maybe that was the vacuum leak causing, idk.

One other question, then I have to get ready to go out of town for weekend. My heater hoses are bypassed together with a kinked hose effectively blocking off flow. Is that an issue?

Thanks,
Bryan

yerny

That's mostly true. I paid for the gauges, wheels, tires, steering wheel, a wiring harness (though I think he left the original cheap one in), and extra for smoothie bumpers. Plus it already had new carpet and door panels. And yes, I shouldn't have had to fight to get the rest of the parts and it should have ran well to boot.

Raptor_WS6

iTrader: (23)

You're welcome. Its sux when u get dicked like that. So when we can help we try. .
Gil
gil@6ledesigns.com

yerny

So over the past two weeks I've installed a Walpro 255 pump to boost my fuel pressure and re-run all my rubber fuel lines since they had seen some miles. Fired her up for a test drive with my brother coming along in case we had to push it home. After warming up a bit driving around, it felt much stronger than before. I turned around and headed for home. At about 10mph I floored it and it kicked out a little sideways, after catching I shifted into 2nd and another nice 2 seconds of "scratch", 3rd saw a little spin, but not much. That should have been my first experience driving the car when I got it!

All that's left is to fix my windshield wiper arm, plump the PCV, wire in the horn, and fix the passenger headlight brights and she'll be 100%...ready to sell without any caveats. It's all down hill from here.

Thank you all for your insights and advice. I never would have found the vacuum leak at the back of the intake manifold without the hint.

Sincerely,
Bryan