Advice sought for my "Professionally Built" '66 Nova
#1
Advice sought for my "Professionally Built" '66 Nova
I had my Nova "professionally built" by a frequent Car Craft builder. Contracted for LS2, what I got after returning from deployment was an LS1 that runs like crap. I have 300 miles on it now, hoping at some point the ECU might learn enough to run decent. It is OK up to about 1/2 acceleration, anything more, it hesitates and runs like crap. It has no OBDII port wired and is an '04 GTO motor running an older Camaro ECU. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned the MAF, reset the ECU...and no change.
The car is probably 95% complete (though it was supposed to be turn-key). I've been trying to sell since Feb and no takers, keep finding more "oversights" from the builder. After threat of lawsuit, he mailed me some parts he owed me and a little money, but I'm still down a LOT of money because of him and he never delivered on the contract. I need to sell it, but need to get it running right first.
I have a Q-Jet sitting around and am seriously considering going to Carb using the Edelbrock LS1 MSD kit and an Aeromotive 13204 fuel pressure regulator. I hate to think about dumping even more money into this money pit, but I need to get it running great so I can sell it.
Seeking advice,
Bryan
Falls Church, VA
The car is probably 95% complete (though it was supposed to be turn-key). I've been trying to sell since Feb and no takers, keep finding more "oversights" from the builder. After threat of lawsuit, he mailed me some parts he owed me and a little money, but I'm still down a LOT of money because of him and he never delivered on the contract. I need to sell it, but need to get it running right first.
I have a Q-Jet sitting around and am seriously considering going to Carb using the Edelbrock LS1 MSD kit and an Aeromotive 13204 fuel pressure regulator. I hate to think about dumping even more money into this money pit, but I need to get it running great so I can sell it.
Seeking advice,
Bryan
Falls Church, VA
#2
Sorry to hear about your problems. Especially if you were deployed serving our country. Just doesn't seem right somehow.
I'm not sure how much experience you have with FI motors, but I think I would look up a local expert and see if they can spot something obvious. Probably worth a try.
As for going carb, you could easily do the conversion in a weekend if you source all the parts first. Read through the stickies in the carb forum. Don't buy an edlebrock box, get the one from MSD. It will actually be cheaper sourcing them separate than as a package. Several good vendors on here will cut you a deal.
If you are truly just looking to dump it then you can probably get a cut rate price on a used edlebrock box. it will get it running well enough to sell, just doesn't have the tuning capability of the MSD box.
Look up beaterolds on here, he is running a Q jet and loving life. Says it pretty much worked with no tuning.
Who knows? Get it running right with a carb on it and you may want to keep it.
I'm not sure how much experience you have with FI motors, but I think I would look up a local expert and see if they can spot something obvious. Probably worth a try.
As for going carb, you could easily do the conversion in a weekend if you source all the parts first. Read through the stickies in the carb forum. Don't buy an edlebrock box, get the one from MSD. It will actually be cheaper sourcing them separate than as a package. Several good vendors on here will cut you a deal.
If you are truly just looking to dump it then you can probably get a cut rate price on a used edlebrock box. it will get it running well enough to sell, just doesn't have the tuning capability of the MSD box.
Look up beaterolds on here, he is running a Q jet and loving life. Says it pretty much worked with no tuning.
Who knows? Get it running right with a carb on it and you may want to keep it.
#6
Thanks for your thoughts. Under normal conditions I would agree that getting a pro to help solve my issues might be worth the money, but given the fact that I have no OBDII port at all and that the engine has NEVER run right since I received it, I truly doubt the ECU was ever even tuned or wired correctly in the first place. There are shops within an hours drive, assuming my car would make it that far, but then I'd have to pay a few hundred bucks just to get an OBDII port wired in so they can begin diagnostics.
I have $35K in my car now and was unable to sell it at $28K (what I paid the joker for the turn-key build). I agree that a great running FI LS1 would command a higher price than carb'd, but a poorly running FI LS1 car just won't sell...I know.
I may try to wire in an OBDII port this weekend if it stops raining. If I can figure out the pinout, I'll see if there are any codes. It might be simple after-all, I just hate even putting air in the tires after getting so burnt.
Thanks,
Bryan
I have $35K in my car now and was unable to sell it at $28K (what I paid the joker for the turn-key build). I agree that a great running FI LS1 would command a higher price than carb'd, but a poorly running FI LS1 car just won't sell...I know.
I may try to wire in an OBDII port this weekend if it stops raining. If I can figure out the pinout, I'll see if there are any codes. It might be simple after-all, I just hate even putting air in the tires after getting so burnt.
Thanks,
Bryan
#7
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What is done to the engine? It shouldn't be that hard to wire in the OBDII connection and then get it tuned properly... I would stay with the EFI...
Another way to find out what has been done in the PCM would be to pull it out and put it in another compatible vehicle (I use my truck to do this) and pull the tune out and look at it... If the car isn't modified much, you can also make changes to straighten it out this way...
Another way to find out what has been done in the PCM would be to pull it out and put it in another compatible vehicle (I use my truck to do this) and pull the tune out and look at it... If the car isn't modified much, you can also make changes to straighten it out this way...
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#8
You can fix it!
You can run an obd2 port yourself for less than $20. First kick that guys *** that screwed you, then go to a junkyard and snag an obd2 port. you only need 4 wires going to it, just cut it leaving about 4" of wires then you can use the wires you need later. It only needs two grounds a 12v source and a single wire from your PCM. You can find which one you need from the PCM on lt1swap.com. google (obd2 wiring pinout) to see what pins you need on the obd2. Then you can scan for codes.
#9
Thanks everyone for your advice. I'll try to hook up an OBD2 port and see if it kicks out any codes. I have an OBD2 extension I can chop up.
As far as court, after threat of lawsuit he partially complied...not that he did anything about installing a crappy running LS1 instead of the LS2 I paid for. Now he doesn't respond to texts, emails, or calls. I google'd his phone number and see numerous people have issues with him. Karma will take care of him eventually, meanwhile, I just want a car that runs without dumping more money into it.
Thanks guys,
Bryan
As far as court, after threat of lawsuit he partially complied...not that he did anything about installing a crappy running LS1 instead of the LS2 I paid for. Now he doesn't respond to texts, emails, or calls. I google'd his phone number and see numerous people have issues with him. Karma will take care of him eventually, meanwhile, I just want a car that runs without dumping more money into it.
Thanks guys,
Bryan
#10
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Who was it? I think you should put the word out to prevent others from being burned by this "shop"...
If you need any help figuring out what the tune looks like, let me know, I'm not terribly far from you.
If you need any help figuring out what the tune looks like, let me know, I'm not terribly far from you.
#12
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Bryan, sorry to hear about your troubles. You have to wire in the OBDII port to be able to use a scanner to see what's going on with your engine otherwise you're just wasting money and time throwing parts at it. There are a lot of good people on here that are willing to help you get it running correctly. Check out lt1swap.com for your wiring and pinout needs.
#14
A dual plane intake just came on sale for $240.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/carburete...cations-3.html
Throw in a bit over 3 bills for the ignition box
https://ls1tech.com/forums/carburete...week-sale.html
add an air cleaner, pressure regulator, your Q jet + an adapter + some fittings and you are up and running for under $700.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/carburete...cations-3.html
Throw in a bit over 3 bills for the ignition box
https://ls1tech.com/forums/carburete...week-sale.html
add an air cleaner, pressure regulator, your Q jet + an adapter + some fittings and you are up and running for under $700.
Last edited by Pop N Wood; 10-13-2013 at 08:02 AM.
#15
So far you have had some really scattered advice.
1) If you had a contract, take it to small claims court if they won't make it right. At best, your difference will be the difference in cost between LS1 and LS2. Not a lot of money. If you didn't have an actual contract....that sucks.
2) Buy a new obd 2 port from ebay, or current performance, or any of the other vendors. Really, this much money in a car. Pop $12 for a new port. It's cheaper than the gas to go get one at a junkyard.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OBD2-ALDL-port-2005-CANBUS-data-LS2-LS3-FREE-SHIP-/321207142124?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac97006ec&vxp=mtr
3) The LS designation has nothing to do with why it runs bad. The LS1 and LS2 really aren't that much different. LS2 is a little larger with a little higher compression and a little larger cam. The LS1 came in more HP combo's though. Find a mechanic who can compression test it, replace the wires, check for bad coils, etc. All the standard things.
Then find a tuner who can tap in and find out if it is a tuning issue. But start with the mechanicals first. You will likely find someone who can put in the OBD, check the engine and tuning all in one shot.
Good luck.
1) If you had a contract, take it to small claims court if they won't make it right. At best, your difference will be the difference in cost between LS1 and LS2. Not a lot of money. If you didn't have an actual contract....that sucks.
2) Buy a new obd 2 port from ebay, or current performance, or any of the other vendors. Really, this much money in a car. Pop $12 for a new port. It's cheaper than the gas to go get one at a junkyard.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OBD2-ALDL-port-2005-CANBUS-data-LS2-LS3-FREE-SHIP-/321207142124?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac97006ec&vxp=mtr
3) The LS designation has nothing to do with why it runs bad. The LS1 and LS2 really aren't that much different. LS2 is a little larger with a little higher compression and a little larger cam. The LS1 came in more HP combo's though. Find a mechanic who can compression test it, replace the wires, check for bad coils, etc. All the standard things.
Then find a tuner who can tap in and find out if it is a tuning issue. But start with the mechanicals first. You will likely find someone who can put in the OBD, check the engine and tuning all in one shot.
Good luck.
#16
OBD2 success
My sincere thanks for your feedback. I'm a bit of an FI noob, but I'm familiar w/ electronics, wiring, and computers.
So I wired in an OBD2 port and used my bluetooth sensor connected to Torque on my Android Nexus tablet. Here's what I observed:
1) Show logged faults - NONE
2) Show Pending Faults - NONE
3 Show historic faults - NONE
I played with adding different gauges and thought these might be most useful. It's pouring rain outside, buy I might be able to take it for a drive later or tomorrow and have my wife video record the torque screen while driving an post it to youtube. Is this of any help or any advice on next steps? Anything jump out as holy crap, that's not right?
Thanks,
Bryan
So I wired in an OBD2 port and used my bluetooth sensor connected to Torque on my Android Nexus tablet. Here's what I observed:
1) Show logged faults - NONE
2) Show Pending Faults - NONE
3 Show historic faults - NONE
I played with adding different gauges and thought these might be most useful. It's pouring rain outside, buy I might be able to take it for a drive later or tomorrow and have my wife video record the torque screen while driving an post it to youtube. Is this of any help or any advice on next steps? Anything jump out as holy crap, that's not right?
Thanks,
Bryan
#19
For fuel, the car was delivered with the old tank and an inline fuel pump. Car ran about 30 miles, then would barely idle, so I pulled the filter and found it full of rust. Long story short, replace fuel tank/pump w/ a Spectra F1G1FA tank. Spectra stated it supports an LS w/ 59psi. Added corvette filter to that, but have never checked fuel pressure (don't have a gauge).
I've configured the logging and will try to take out later today. Have a bunch of honey-do's right now.
Thanks,
Bryan