Awww Jeez not another fox body LSx swap.
11-28-2013, 07:50 PM
#21
Factory GT crossmember. Lengthened 3" and installed in the 4 cyl auto location
My super simple alternator mount and belt routing 
This shows the front portion of my shifter link and adapter arm. The adjustable pivot point shown is what allows me to get the stock shifter detents to align with the th400 ones. 
The shifter end 
My super simple alternator mount and belt routing 
This shows the front portion of my shifter link and adapter arm. The adjustable pivot point shown is what allows me to get the stock shifter detents to align with the th400 ones. 
The shifter end 
11-28-2013, 08:18 PM
#22
Some impressive work going on here. I think I will bring my next project to you and let you do all the hard work.. LOL
Do you already have a trans yoke for the turbo 400? I ask because I have a brand new 400 short yoke I bought and wound up going to a long yoke instead of paying $350 to get a driveshaft made. If you want it for super cheap, (READ PAY SHIPPING COST) let me know and I will shoot it you.
Do you already have a trans yoke for the turbo 400? I ask because I have a brand new 400 short yoke I bought and wound up going to a long yoke instead of paying $350 to get a driveshaft made. If you want it for super cheap, (READ PAY SHIPPING COST) let me know and I will shoot it you.
11-28-2013, 08:42 PM
#23
Some impressive work going on here. I think I will bring my next project to you and let you do all the hard work.. LOL Do you already have a trans yoke for the turbo 400? I ask because I have a brand new 400 short yoke I bought and wound up going to a long yoke instead of paying $350 to get a driveshaft made. If you want it for super cheap, (READ PAY SHIPPING COST) let me know and I will shoot it you.
11-28-2013, 09:23 PM
#26
It seems to work as well as the stock shifter did dry testing it. Bearing in mind that the stock shifter is by no means a performance unit
I'm hesitant to give you the final word on how it works till I have the car running and can feel where the shifts are.
11-29-2013, 07:59 PM
#31
I've spend more time sorting out two mechanical gauges today than just about anything else on this project.
On the oil side I drilled and tapped the little filter bypass housing for an 1/8npt to 3/16 flare fitting
Then I bent up a piece of pre made 3/16" steel brake line so that it ends right at the front of the motor up by the drivers side head. The reason for this is I just have way too much hot stuff going on that side of the motor to come down by the trans with either an oil line or wires for an oil pressure switch.
My solution to the mechanical water temp gauge is much less elegant. Involving a tee and other hardware store bits on the outgoing heater hose. I will probably redo this later to something more stylish.
On the oil side I drilled and tapped the little filter bypass housing for an 1/8npt to 3/16 flare fitting
Then I bent up a piece of pre made 3/16" steel brake line so that it ends right at the front of the motor up by the drivers side head. The reason for this is I just have way too much hot stuff going on that side of the motor to come down by the trans with either an oil line or wires for an oil pressure switch.
My solution to the mechanical water temp gauge is much less elegant. Involving a tee and other hardware store bits on the outgoing heater hose. I will probably redo this later to something more stylish.
12-01-2013, 06:01 PM
#35
Not a lot to report for today's work mostly a bunch if wire chasing. But what I do have is really important if you have a late 4cyl chassis.
If you're doing a carb or non EEC swap you'll want to know where to pick up a switched "ign" signal and the fuel pump wire. These are behind the passanger side kick panel and the green 8 pin connector that stayed with the car when if you're like me you ripped out the EEC harness.
The two tan/green wires are for the signal side of main ign relay. The heavier gauge green with a yellow stripe goes to the fuel pump (after changing colors several times!)
A word of note! No matter what you may have read on google the fuel pump relay IS NOT under the seat on a late 4cyl car. It's part of a multifunction box located on the passangers side shock tower that goes away with the stock fuel injection harness. THERE IS NO dedicated fuel pump relay.
If your car is an automatic like mine you will also loose your neutral start switch with the transmission and as a result won't be able to crank the engine.
This will require you to pull up the carpet on the drivers side floorboard. Fish out the remainder of the cut off trans harness and splice the white/red and red/blue wires together.
This restores the path from your ign switch to the starter solenoid bypassing the neutral safety switch function.
If you're doing a carb or non EEC swap you'll want to know where to pick up a switched "ign" signal and the fuel pump wire. These are behind the passanger side kick panel and the green 8 pin connector that stayed with the car when if you're like me you ripped out the EEC harness.
The two tan/green wires are for the signal side of main ign relay. The heavier gauge green with a yellow stripe goes to the fuel pump (after changing colors several times!)
A word of note! No matter what you may have read on google the fuel pump relay IS NOT under the seat on a late 4cyl car. It's part of a multifunction box located on the passangers side shock tower that goes away with the stock fuel injection harness. THERE IS NO dedicated fuel pump relay.
If your car is an automatic like mine you will also loose your neutral start switch with the transmission and as a result won't be able to crank the engine.
This will require you to pull up the carpet on the drivers side floorboard. Fish out the remainder of the cut off trans harness and splice the white/red and red/blue wires together.
This restores the path from your ign switch to the starter solenoid bypassing the neutral safety switch function.
12-02-2013, 08:47 AM
#37
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A word of note! No matter what you may have read on google the fuel pump relay IS NOT under the seat on a late 4cyl car. It's part of a multifunction box located on the passangers side shock tower that goes away with the stock fuel injection harness. THERE IS NO dedicated fuel pump relay.
12-02-2013, 01:32 PM
#39
Teching In
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The deadheaded plug under my seat goes to the power seat if you have that option. Otherwise it has a bypass plug. Late 92 and all 93 cars the fuel pump relay is located in the engine bay.
12-02-2013, 01:58 PM
#40
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In the 4cyl T5 cars there should be a relay receptacle which an OEM Ford 5.0 fuel pump relay plugs into under the drivers seat. The relay is a four contactor design which is the functional equivalent of the standard automotive relays, just Ford packages it in a nice green over molded color with a locking tab. Again, I don't know whether or not the 4cyl auto cars have.
It very well may be hidden under the carpet, I'm pretty sure mine was under the carpet in my 4cyl T5 car and I believe I found it circa 2009 when I had to remove the carpet and weld up the floorpan after the driver seat front mounts broke, so I really don't remember if it was under the carpet or not, since it's been so long.
I know it is there because I jumpered the relay housing to provide 12V to the pump in order to pump all the gas out of the fuel tank before I pulled the fuel tank when I began the LS swap this summer. The 5.0 relay receptacle under the seat in my 4cyl T5 chassis physically has all the wires in the relay receptacle, but the control side is not powered at ignition on, it only had 12V on the fuel pump power side of the circuit.
The stand alone fuel pump relay in the engine bay for the 1992/1993 cars (should be near the air filter if I remember correctly) are the 5.0 cars only, not the 4cyl cars. The 4cyl cars have a CCRM on the passenger side strut tower, on the front up near the top by strut mount, which provides power to the fuel pump, as well as things like the EDIS system and DIS coils.
It very well may be hidden under the carpet, I'm pretty sure mine was under the carpet in my 4cyl T5 car and I believe I found it circa 2009 when I had to remove the carpet and weld up the floorpan after the driver seat front mounts broke, so I really don't remember if it was under the carpet or not, since it's been so long.
I know it is there because I jumpered the relay housing to provide 12V to the pump in order to pump all the gas out of the fuel tank before I pulled the fuel tank when I began the LS swap this summer. The 5.0 relay receptacle under the seat in my 4cyl T5 chassis physically has all the wires in the relay receptacle, but the control side is not powered at ignition on, it only had 12V on the fuel pump power side of the circuit.
The stand alone fuel pump relay in the engine bay for the 1992/1993 cars (should be near the air filter if I remember correctly) are the 5.0 cars only, not the 4cyl cars. The 4cyl cars have a CCRM on the passenger side strut tower, on the front up near the top by strut mount, which provides power to the fuel pump, as well as things like the EDIS system and DIS coils.