Awww Jeez not another fox body LSx swap.
12-24-2013, 10:10 AM
#43
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8 7/16" to bottom of the flange. However, the bend in that flange is typically very inconsistent, I have seen some nearly flat, an some nearly vertical. The weld seam itself is usually more consistent. Mine measures 8 7/8" to the firewall weld seam.
12-24-2013, 06:11 PM
#44
Thanks for the reply.
Measuring to the seam between the two panels I get 8" even.
So suffice to say that I'm sitting 7/8 of an inch higher. Funny thing is neither the truck pan nor my stock k member or fabbed mounts was my limiting factor on getting the engine lower. I'm using a manual rack that I'm off of by quite a bit with the pan, with the power rack I was very close. But as it turned out none of those things were what mattered. Where I was and am limited on getting the motor down lower is the steering shaft through my heddman hustler ls1/fox swap headers. Where the engine sits now the top universal joint all but drags on the header primary. Amazingly though I didn't have to touch these headers with a hammer.
Measuring to the seam between the two panels I get 8" even.
So suffice to say that I'm sitting 7/8 of an inch higher. Funny thing is neither the truck pan nor my stock k member or fabbed mounts was my limiting factor on getting the engine lower. I'm using a manual rack that I'm off of by quite a bit with the pan, with the power rack I was very close. But as it turned out none of those things were what mattered. Where I was and am limited on getting the motor down lower is the steering shaft through my heddman hustler ls1/fox swap headers. Where the engine sits now the top universal joint all but drags on the header primary. Amazingly though I didn't have to touch these headers with a hammer.
12-29-2013, 12:47 PM
#45
IT LIVES!!!!
Sounds pretty healthy open headers
At low idle oil pressure is 15psi which seems a little low to someone who's used to old school sbc's, it runs up to 25ish at a high idle speed. (By ear no tach yet)
One problem I discovered that may save some of you guys some hair pulling. Several posts back I mentioned finding the IGN wires to the EEC. Well it turns out you CANT use them to power directly or switch on the 6ls box. The problem is that when you crank the engine this power source switches off momentarily making starting the engine impossible. An alternate switched 12v will have to be found.
Sounds pretty healthy open headers
At low idle oil pressure is 15psi which seems a little low to someone who's used to old school sbc's, it runs up to 25ish at a high idle speed. (By ear no tach yet)
One problem I discovered that may save some of you guys some hair pulling. Several posts back I mentioned finding the IGN wires to the EEC. Well it turns out you CANT use them to power directly or switch on the 6ls box. The problem is that when you crank the engine this power source switches off momentarily making starting the engine impossible. An alternate switched 12v will have to be found.
01-10-2014, 09:52 AM
#46
UPDATE TIME! The end is nigh.
Got my driveshaft in from fed ex for my car and it's from a very unusual application that some of you guys may want to take advantage of.
I bought it from eBay from one of the sellers that specialize in second hand takeoff nascar parts. It's a dynotech 4" .065" wall seamless tube shaft with billet yokes for a th400 that measures 47.5" eye to eye that supposedly came from a Hendrix chassis. This is a big time WIN for me as my absolute no longer than measurement for a DS length from my short shaft th400 was 48" even. Best of all I got it for $140 shipped! You can't even buy the yokes retail for that price.
Here is the shaft
The trans yoke
Got my driveshaft in from fed ex for my car and it's from a very unusual application that some of you guys may want to take advantage of.
I bought it from eBay from one of the sellers that specialize in second hand takeoff nascar parts. It's a dynotech 4" .065" wall seamless tube shaft with billet yokes for a th400 that measures 47.5" eye to eye that supposedly came from a Hendrix chassis. This is a big time WIN for me as my absolute no longer than measurement for a DS length from my short shaft th400 was 48" even. Best of all I got it for $140 shipped! You can't even buy the yokes retail for that price.
Here is the shaft
The trans yoke
02-01-2014, 04:47 PM
#47
It's been a long road but I think I'm to the point now where I can pronounce the engine swap phase as done.
I've been driving the car a round some and OMG does it have teh ballz. Theses still much to do chassis wise.
Here's a run vid to wrap things up.
I've been driving the car a round some and OMG does it have teh ballz. Theses still much to do chassis wise.
Here's a run vid to wrap things up.
09-25-2014, 08:11 PM
#50
Not a lot to report for today's work mostly a bunch if wire chasing. But what I do have is really important if you have a late 4cyl chassis.
If you're doing a carb or non EEC swap you'll want to know where to pick up a switched "ign" signal and the fuel pump wire. These are behind the passanger side kick panel and the green 8 pin connector that stayed with the car when if you're like me you ripped out the EEC harness.
The two tan/green wires are for the signal side of main ign relay. The heavier gauge green with a yellow stripe goes to the fuel pump (after changing colors several times!)
A word of note! No matter what you may have read on google the fuel pump relay IS NOT under the seat on a late 4cyl car. It's part of a multifunction box located on the passangers side shock tower that goes away with the stock fuel injection harness. THERE IS NO dedicated fuel pump relay.
If your car is an automatic like mine you will also loose your neutral start switch with the transmission and as a result won't be able to crank the engine.
This will require you to pull up the carpet on the drivers side floorboard. Fish out the remainder of the cut off trans harness and splice the white/red and red/blue wires together.
This restores the path from your ign switch to the starter solenoid bypassing the neutral safety switch function.
If you're doing a carb or non EEC swap you'll want to know where to pick up a switched "ign" signal and the fuel pump wire. These are behind the passanger side kick panel and the green 8 pin connector that stayed with the car when if you're like me you ripped out the EEC harness.
The two tan/green wires are for the signal side of main ign relay. The heavier gauge green with a yellow stripe goes to the fuel pump (after changing colors several times!)
A word of note! No matter what you may have read on google the fuel pump relay IS NOT under the seat on a late 4cyl car. It's part of a multifunction box located on the passangers side shock tower that goes away with the stock fuel injection harness. THERE IS NO dedicated fuel pump relay.
If your car is an automatic like mine you will also loose your neutral start switch with the transmission and as a result won't be able to crank the engine.
This will require you to pull up the carpet on the drivers side floorboard. Fish out the remainder of the cut off trans harness and splice the white/red and red/blue wires together.
This restores the path from your ign switch to the starter solenoid bypassing the neutral safety switch function.
Last edited by jvert; 09-25-2014 at 11:00 PM.
