Engine first fire part 2
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 62
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Engine first fire part 2 Update on my fist fire. Ls-1 in my 51 chevy pickup. Started the day with final checks then proceeded to install the optima battery I purchased last Friday. Got the battery in and nothing put my test light on it and nothing so off to the speed shop to get this returned. Battery in now and click click, took the starter down and performed bench test. New starter and battery and back home now. Truck is turning over but not trying to start. Pull fuel line off and no fuel pressure?? The pump is running but no pressure. Upon further inspection my new Walbro pump has a cracked line on the pressure line in the tank. Wow how did that happen? Brand new pump. Anyway off to Lowes and get some new line. Replaced the line and now i have several leaks in the line at filter and connections. Get the lines tight and now i have pressure and return flow. Tried to crank it a couple of times but it is late so cleaned the garage and called it a night. Engine is turning over but don't seem to be trying to start. Any suggestions or things you can think of ?? I'll check back in the morning !!
Check voltage to the coils and injectors. Spark at the plugs. Injectors are getting an pulse signal (use a Noid light).
What is the pressure at the fuel rail ?
Also check to make sure you are getting constant voltage to the PCM on both Run and Start without interruption as it goes from run>start>run.
What is the pressure at the fuel rail ?
Also check to make sure you are getting constant voltage to the PCM on both Run and Start without interruption as it goes from run>start>run.
Pull fuel line off and no fuel pressure?? The pump is running but no pressure. Upon further inspection my new Walbro pump has a cracked line on the pressure line in the tank. Wow how did that happen? Brand new pump. Anyway off to Lowes and get some new line. Replaced the line and now i have several leaks in the line at filter and connections. Get the lines tight and now i have pressure and return flow. Tried to crank it a couple of times but it is late so cleaned the garage and called it a night. Engine is turning over but don't seem to be trying to start. Any suggestions or things you can think of ?? I'll check back in the morning !!
Fuel pressure for these engines is 58 PSI minimum. All fuel line needs to be impervious to fuel internally and oil externally. In-tank fuel pressure line needs to be fuel proof inside and out. I doubt anything of the sort could be found a Lowes - unless they suddenly started carrying automotive stuff in your area. Gates makes a rubber fuel line they call "barricade" just for in-tank applications, but it is typically sold by the foot at the parts store and is very expensive. I think it is around $8 to 10 / foot. There are several options outside the tank that vary in price from reasonable (rubber hose or OEM style nylon line) to insane (AN fittings and steel braided hose).
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 62
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What type of fuel line are you running that you can purchase it from Lowes???!!!
Fuel pressure for these engines is 58 PSI minimum. All fuel line needs to be impervious to fuel internally and oil externally. In-tank fuel pressure line needs to be fuel proof inside and out. I doubt anything of the sort could be found a Lowes - unless they suddenly started carrying automotive stuff in your area. Gates makes a rubber fuel line they call "barricade" just for in-tank applications, but it is typically sold by the foot at the parts store and is very expensive. I think it is around $8 to 10 / foot. There are several options outside the tank that vary in price from reasonable (rubber hose or OEM style nylon line) to insane (AN fittings and steel braided hose).
Fuel pressure for these engines is 58 PSI minimum. All fuel line needs to be impervious to fuel internally and oil externally. In-tank fuel pressure line needs to be fuel proof inside and out. I doubt anything of the sort could be found a Lowes - unless they suddenly started carrying automotive stuff in your area. Gates makes a rubber fuel line they call "barricade" just for in-tank applications, but it is typically sold by the foot at the parts store and is very expensive. I think it is around $8 to 10 / foot. There are several options outside the tank that vary in price from reasonable (rubber hose or OEM style nylon line) to insane (AN fittings and steel braided hose).
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Check voltage to the coils and injectors. Spark at the plugs. Injectors are getting an pulse signal (use a Noid light).
What is the pressure at the fuel rail ?
Also check to make sure you are getting constant voltage to the PCM on both Run and Start without interruption as it goes from run>start>run.
What is the pressure at the fuel rail ?
Also check to make sure you are getting constant voltage to the PCM on both Run and Start without interruption as it goes from run>start>run.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
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Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 62
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OK I googled PVC use in the tank and got no definite resolution. Some say yes some say no. I also googled Tygon tubing and it seemed to be a better choice. I also called Tank's inc. where i purchased the hanger and the guy did not know what it was made of. While i was there i got the tygon tubing and may convert to it.
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Easiest way to check spark is to spray a little starting fluid in and see if it fires. Assuming that doesn't work, you'll need to either purchase a spark tester or remove a plug and ground the threaded portion while cranking the engine over. See if the plug arcs. This isn't the best way to do it, but it works.
For basic voltage checks you can use a cheap-o multimeter. Harbor Freight has one for under 5 bucks. Again, not the best but it will work. You can use a test light to confirm power is there, but not how much. An old turn signal socket works in a pinch.
To confirm VATS has been disabled, unhook an injector and use a test light/noid light to jump both pins of the plug together. See if it flashes for more than 2 seconds while cranking.
For basic voltage checks you can use a cheap-o multimeter. Harbor Freight has one for under 5 bucks. Again, not the best but it will work. You can use a test light to confirm power is there, but not how much. An old turn signal socket works in a pinch.
To confirm VATS has been disabled, unhook an injector and use a test light/noid light to jump both pins of the plug together. See if it flashes for more than 2 seconds while cranking.
Harbor Freight will give you a DVM if you have a coupon for free. You can use the Digital Volt Meter (DVM) to check voltage and ohms (grounding).
If your old school and have a timing light.. just hook it up to a plug wire.. and watch to see if you get any sparks (light will flash). Just another option to see if your getting spark at the plug.
And as I and i r teh stated.. check the Ign 12+ voltages going to the PCM (and other Pink wires). Older GM car would cut the voltage when the Key transistion from the Start to Run position on the Ign Key.
BC
If your old school and have a timing light.. just hook it up to a plug wire.. and watch to see if you get any sparks (light will flash). Just another option to see if your getting spark at the plug.
And as I and i r teh stated.. check the Ign 12+ voltages going to the PCM (and other Pink wires). Older GM car would cut the voltage when the Key transistion from the Start to Run position on the Ign Key.
BC
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 62
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OK , i purchased the noid light , in line spark tester , and picking up the fuel pressure gauge tonight. I will check the above mentioned possible issues. I also think I want to get a scanner / code reader, is there a particular brand that is better than any other or any particular features that is needed?
Brand isn't really important, but I recommend one that can get live OBD2 data. You will only be able to see the basics (MAF, MAP, O2 Volts, TPS, RPM, IAT, CTS, etc), but it makes troubleshooting much easier than a simple code reader.
I use an Actron/Matco unit at home. Advance sells them for around 120. I have an Innova as well, but I don't like the interface.
I use an Actron/Matco unit at home. Advance sells them for around 120. I have an Innova as well, but I don't like the interface.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 62
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OK update part 3,
I work alone because all weekend I run around the country watching my son play football.
So I checked the plugs I can visually see with the spark tester and I am getting spark. I used the noid light and it flashes correctly again only the ones I can see (working alone). So I will assume all is good. Also I hooked up the pressure gauge and I have around 55 pounds of pressure at the rail. I am on my way to get a nine volt battery to see if the injectors are working (clicking, opening). So what is next please help I will also pick up a volt meter. Thanks in advance
I work alone because all weekend I run around the country watching my son play football.
So I checked the plugs I can visually see with the spark tester and I am getting spark. I used the noid light and it flashes correctly again only the ones I can see (working alone). So I will assume all is good. Also I hooked up the pressure gauge and I have around 55 pounds of pressure at the rail. I am on my way to get a nine volt battery to see if the injectors are working (clicking, opening). So what is next please help I will also pick up a volt meter. Thanks in advance
Great news and for following everyone suggestion and (not sure what) the fix !.
I guess it is possible that the injectors get stuck or frozen ?.. and putting a constant voltage to it forced the coil to start operating ? only thing I can come to !? How long has it been sitting since it last ran ?
Let us know how the rest of the shake down goes !.
BC
I guess it is possible that the injectors get stuck or frozen ?.. and putting a constant voltage to it forced the coil to start operating ? only thing I can come to !? How long has it been sitting since it last ran ?
Let us know how the rest of the shake down goes !.
BC
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Great news and for following everyone suggestion and (not sure what) the fix !.
I guess it is possible that the injectors get stuck or frozen ?.. and putting a constant voltage to it forced the coil to start operating ? only thing I can come to !? How long has it been sitting since it last ran ?
Let us know how the rest of the shake down goes !.
BC
I guess it is possible that the injectors get stuck or frozen ?.. and putting a constant voltage to it forced the coil to start operating ? only thing I can come to !? How long has it been sitting since it last ran ?
Let us know how the rest of the shake down goes !.
BC
You guys are awesome , I'm sure most of you have built several cars and or engines. This is my very first project !!
Well.. now that you have it running.. I would recommend running some Seafoam in the Gas to clean the injectors out.
You learn a lot by doing it yourself and now you can say you have done your swap and debugged some problem along the way.. keep up the good work and post some pictures of the 51'... love the older car/trucks..!
BC
You learn a lot by doing it yourself and now you can say you have done your swap and debugged some problem along the way.. keep up the good work and post some pictures of the 51'... love the older car/trucks..!
BC
