Legacy GT Wagon conversion
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Well we are waiting on him to close on his house so we can get back to it.
Subframe is a bitch and we decided to modify rather then start from scratch.
What are your plans? Steering rack ja a pain as you will see.
Tunnel mod and transmission mount are done now just need to get back into it.
Subframe is a bitch and we decided to modify rather then start from scratch.
What are your plans? Steering rack ja a pain as you will see.
Tunnel mod and transmission mount are done now just need to get back into it.
Ah, I've seen his build over on NASIOC. I've even posted in his thread. Did he ever get the car done? Last I saw he was working on rear end and brake setup.
One thing I'm jealous of: his mock-up engine. I shopped online for one, but decided to pass on the 350+ dollar price tag and just deal with the engine itself
. I'm curious why he didn't just start from scratch with the engine crossmember; he certainly seems talented enough to have built his own. I didn't understand why he built off what was there, and added OBX spacers to lower the cradle for the engine to clear hood.
One thing I'm jealous of: his mock-up engine. I shopped online for one, but decided to pass on the 350+ dollar price tag and just deal with the engine itself
. I'm curious why he didn't just start from scratch with the engine crossmember; he certainly seems talented enough to have built his own. I didn't understand why he built off what was there, and added OBX spacers to lower the cradle for the engine to clear hood. Well we are waiting on him to close on his house so we can get back to it.
Subframe is a bitch and we decided to modify rather then start from scratch.
What are your plans? Steering rack ja a pain as you will see.
Tunnel mod and transmission mount are done now just need to get back into it.
Subframe is a bitch and we decided to modify rather then start from scratch.
What are your plans? Steering rack ja a pain as you will see.
Tunnel mod and transmission mount are done now just need to get back into it.
Entirely custom front engine cradle is the plan. It just makes more sense than to try to re-engineer what Subaru had put there. Steering rack mounting I will have to see once we actually start get going. I think I'm going to have room to actually move it higher than it currently is. If not, I'll just convert to heim joint steering and flip the tie rods. First thing is first though: get the engine all put together!
I'm in no way knocking on his build! As I tell other people that have pioneered things before me, he has given me some great ideas on how to go about some things, and other ideas on how to do a few other items differently.
Last edited by Dusty B; Dec 22, 2013 at 09:17 AM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
That is what the forum is here for so we can share our mistakes and options
In the case if sucha build money talks if that is not a constraint than you can build anything.
My miata build was donw with a budget in mind
Keep us posted maybe you have some ideas.
What will you do for rear?
In the case if sucha build money talks if that is not a constraint than you can build anything.
My miata build was donw with a budget in mind
Keep us posted maybe you have some ideas.
What will you do for rear?
I think my options will be better using the cxracing pan. It's really low profile and offers more options. After watching a bunch of Subaru guys use the GTO pan, it just appears like it would be more problematic to work around than the cx. Plus, for an extra 100 bucks over the cost of the GTO swap setup, you get the whole cx kit with remote filter location kit. Than that's even one less thing I have to worry about clearance and access to; oil filter.
Entirely custom front engine cradle is the plan. It just makes more sense than to try to re-engineer what Subaru had put there. Steering rack mounting I will have to see once we actually start get going. I think I'm going to have room to actually move it higher than it currently is. If not, I'll just convert to heim joint steering and flip the tie rods. First thing is first though: get the engine all put together!
I'm in no way knocking on his build! As I tell other people that have pioneered things before me, he has given me some great ideas on how to go about some things, and other ideas on how to do a few other items differently.
Entirely custom front engine cradle is the plan. It just makes more sense than to try to re-engineer what Subaru had put there. Steering rack mounting I will have to see once we actually start get going. I think I'm going to have room to actually move it higher than it currently is. If not, I'll just convert to heim joint steering and flip the tie rods. First thing is first though: get the engine all put together!
I'm in no way knocking on his build! As I tell other people that have pioneered things before me, he has given me some great ideas on how to go about some things, and other ideas on how to do a few other items differently.
That is what the forum is here for so we can share our mistakes and options
In the case if sucha build money talks if that is not a constraint than you can build anything.
My miata build was donw with a budget in mind
Keep us posted maybe you have some ideas.
What will you do for rear?
In the case if sucha build money talks if that is not a constraint than you can build anything.
My miata build was donw with a budget in mind
Keep us posted maybe you have some ideas.
What will you do for rear?
I haven't made up my mind on a rear end setup yet. Was going to do a custom DS, and blow the R160 up pretty much, then maybe go up to the R180, before I have to step up to R200 and really have custom everything in the rear.
Had some time to stop at the shop. Parts still haven't shown up, so, I decided to play around and just clean and paint valve covers, after I removed the one broken exhaust bolt that I found when I stripped the motor down. My trademark purple won't be for most of you, but I've been using the color on the wagon for years
.Couple days of PB, and some heat made quick work of broken exhaust bolt:
After cleaning and a little primer, a coat of metallic silver:
Let that bake a little, then couple of coats of metallic hammered:
Laying on some purp!
:
Let that cook in the shop oven, aka heater: hit with clear, bake, repeat a couple times. Output temp about 220, great for curing paint!:
Aaaaaaaaaand sneak peak:
Last edited by Dusty B; Dec 22, 2013 at 09:41 PM.
I'm surprised no one has asked me why the truck balancer is still on there. Well, I've finally discovered how well the crank bolt gets installed . Kersploded 2 high quality impact sockets on that sucker. I'm regretting taking the flywheel off before putting it on the stand now, as it appears I will have to go with the flywheel holder or lock and a couple feet of pipe with a breaker bar.
. Kersploded 2 high quality impact sockets on that sucker. I'm regretting taking the flywheel off before putting it on the stand now, as it appears I will have to go with the flywheel holder or lock and a couple feet of pipe with a breaker bar. I can pretty much just make something in a couple minutes so I don't have to take if off the stand I guess. Weld up a Y using some scrap 1/4", drill a couple holes to bolt to crank, wham bam thank you ma'am.
I'm surprised no one has asked me why the truck balancer is still on there. Well, I've finally discovered how well the crank bolt gets installed . Kersploded 2 high quality impact sockets on that sucker. I'm regretting taking the flywheel off before putting it on the stand now, as it appears I will have to go with the flywheel holder or lock and a couple feet of pipe with a breaker bar.
. Kersploded 2 high quality impact sockets on that sucker. I'm regretting taking the flywheel off before putting it on the stand now, as it appears I will have to go with the flywheel holder or lock and a couple feet of pipe with a breaker bar.Before that I had about 4 ft of breaker bar boucing on it, and NO GO. With heat, it loosened right up.
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Verdad Gallardo Parts are due in Monday, so I just may wait until then. Going to order up some poly mounts so I have them on hand when time comes to do subframe and mounting work. Most likely will get 2 of these and build everything else.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...t_Code=BUSHDOM
Parts came in, so I'll probably head to the shop tomorrow to tool around a little bit. Have to get the front cover off to see if I have the 2 bolts tapped for a timing chain damper. Feel kind of silly ordering the cam gear now since on rock auto you can get the entire LS2 chain setup w/1x cam 3-bolt cam gear, and w/damper for 42 bucks. Whomp Whomp
Going to make my own lifter holder tool using 5/16" aluminum rod, and grind the "D" shape. I don't see the point using 16 pen magnets, which are are least $5 bucks a piece for decent ones, and you could still have a lifter fall. $10 and a little elbow grease works for me.
Going to make my own lifter holder tool using 5/16" aluminum rod, and grind the "D" shape. I don't see the point using 16 pen magnets, which are are least $5 bucks a piece for decent ones, and you could still have a lifter fall. $10 and a little elbow grease works for me.
Last edited by Dusty B; Dec 31, 2013 at 07:53 AM.
. Buddy and I had time to play in shop today, after he came over and helped me pull a Subaru tranny.
So, heated up crank bolt, hit with impact, and out it came. then slapped the 3-jaw puller on.:
Defeated:
Once that was off, then the front cover came off. A little surprise followed, as for some reason it came equipped with the damn 3-bolt, 1X cam gear.... any one seem this before?!?! I was puzzled, yet happy. So It looks like I have a band new cam gear to sell or become a paper weight. My block is also drilled/tapped for ls2 chain damper. This, however, is where my good day and fortune ended
.
Last edited by Dusty B; Jan 1, 2014 at 09:05 PM.
Set up the nice comp cams valve spring tool on #2, then thread in BTR valve holder tool (just a leakdown tester with no gauge), turn on air annnnnd.... Air leading past #2 intake valve. Hisses and puffs up the tape on the head.
To be fair, we're hitting the thing with 130psi, I know that cranking pressure are higher than that though....Without a pressure gauge on hand, I decide to just introduce air to each cylinder. So cyl 2,4, and 6 have some blow-by on intake side, hook it up to 8, hit the air and "POW" blows the take clean off, violently, and loud *** hissing. Can you can burnt valve? So I move over to other bank, 3 and 5 leak, but past the rings into the crankcase.... rings. Decide to pull the heads since I have no choice at this point, and these are some of the scary sights.
Pics looks worse than it is. Walls are silky smooth and mirrored. They are just reflecting the top of piston and make it look nasty.
How I left everything at the shop tonight. Happy New Years!!!!
To be fair, we're hitting the thing with 130psi, I know that cranking pressure are higher than that though....Without a pressure gauge on hand, I decide to just introduce air to each cylinder. So cyl 2,4, and 6 have some blow-by on intake side, hook it up to 8, hit the air and "POW" blows the take clean off, violently, and loud *** hissing. Can you can burnt valve? So I move over to other bank, 3 and 5 leak, but past the rings into the crankcase.... rings. Decide to pull the heads since I have no choice at this point, and these are some of the scary sights.
Pics looks worse than it is. Walls are silky smooth and mirrored. They are just reflecting the top of piston and make it look nasty.
How I left everything at the shop tonight. Happy New Years!!!!
Last edited by Dusty B; Jan 1, 2014 at 09:02 PM.
So now I have to make some more decisions.... Head job is a given. I'm really not looking to spend thousands on this engine though. I know I'm into machine work for a couple or few hundred.
If the heads are straight, do I bother milling? If so how much? With higher lift cam I don't want any interference, and I also don't want to heighten compression any further if I can avoid!
I'll most likely just re-ring myself, and do the ARP rod bolts while I'm at it.....
If the heads are straight, do I bother milling? If so how much? With higher lift cam I don't want any interference, and I also don't want to heighten compression any further if I can avoid!
I'll most likely just re-ring myself, and do the ARP rod bolts while I'm at it.....
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
sorry 'bout your bad luck...
I would just re-ring it and have a valve job done if the rest of the block checks out.
If you don't want to mill the heads then as long as they are still straight and the mating surfaces are ok I would see no reason to do so.
I would just re-ring it and have a valve job done if the rest of the block checks out.
If you don't want to mill the heads then as long as they are still straight and the mating surfaces are ok I would see no reason to do so.
Tipsy
Might be an option. Going to call a few local Machine shops and get rough quotes via phone. If pricing starts to exceed the 400 mark than this may be a viable option.
So I'm pretty ticked with the salvage yard. They're from the town I grew up in as a kid; I've used them before. They're pretty reputable.
I sent them some photos, and details on the condition of the engine. I told them there was no way this engine didn't run without a dead skip at the very least. All thier engines are confirmed running and in good working order before they are supposed to sell them. The response I get:
"Although we verified that the motor ran, we do not always make note of how well the engines run. We cannot give you a refund, or a percentage of the money you paid for the engine. However, we can try to give you a good deal on a set of replacement heads for the engine."
Oh well, live and learn. I'll make sure I give them GREAT reviews and send all my friends there.
I sent them some photos, and details on the condition of the engine. I told them there was no way this engine didn't run without a dead skip at the very least. All thier engines are confirmed running and in good working order before they are supposed to sell them. The response I get:
"Although we verified that the motor ran, we do not always make note of how well the engines run. We cannot give you a refund, or a percentage of the money you paid for the engine. However, we can try to give you a good deal on a set of replacement heads for the engine."
Oh well, live and learn. I'll make sure I give them GREAT reviews and send all my friends there.
Trying to drop heads off to machine shop tomorrow. They quoted me 300-350 +/- a few bucks because I told them I expected more than a few valves to need replacement. So for machine work, rings, head bolts, and misc, I expect to be into the motor for another 5-600.
In other news, I have another toy car I've had up for sale. A 420whp 50 trimmed PT Cruiser GT 5spd. Local guy emailed me asking if I'd be interested in a 60K 2000 Camaro SS 6spd car, that got hit in the rear and bent the unibody; runs/drives. Figure why the hell not. Can get my T56, bunch of random parts I need spare LS1, and part the rest. Ironing details, but I'm hopeful it's going through.
In other news, I have another toy car I've had up for sale. A 420whp 50 trimmed PT Cruiser GT 5spd
. Local guy emailed me asking if I'd be interested in a 60K 2000 Camaro SS 6spd car, that got hit in the rear and bent the unibody; runs/drives. Figure why the hell not. Can get my T56, bunch of random parts I need spare LS1, and part the rest. Ironing details, but I'm hopeful it's going through.