Legacy GT Wagon conversion
So donor car fell through. Still been shopping for T56.
Stopped by the machine shop to chat with the guys and sneak a peek at the heads. All the machine work is done, they're going to assemble and make some final checks and do final measurements. Took about a .040" mill cut, standard 3-angle, and a handful of intake and exhaust valves. No port and polish this time around.
Been so busy between work and family that I totally spaced on ordering my rings and assorted gaskets/parts.
Any suggestions on head gaskets?
Stopped by the machine shop to chat with the guys and sneak a peek at the heads. All the machine work is done, they're going to assemble and make some final checks and do final measurements. Took about a .040" mill cut, standard 3-angle, and a handful of intake and exhaust valves. No port and polish this time around.
Been so busy between work and family that I totally spaced on ordering my rings and assorted gaskets/parts.
Any suggestions on head gaskets?
Last edited by Dusty B; Jan 17, 2014 at 08:41 PM.
Completely spaced on ordering parts. Last night placed an order for new rings, headbolts, headgaskets, proper length intake mani bolts, and upper end gasket set. Now will have everything to make the pig a longblock once again.
Last edited by Dusty B; Jan 23, 2014 at 06:47 AM.
Made it to the shop today, got a little bit done. Progress was held up by me forgetting to pick up a new cylinder hone (doh), as well as parts cache not yet arriving.
First off, I'm part of the crew now, kinda? Got my "dat purp" hat in from Ray at RPM on Saturday. Great quality hat for sure!
Decided I'm so deep in, might as well just take apart the rest of the way to have a look at everything. Pulled trays and lifters. Then removed pan and started pulling plugs. Lifters, rod bearings, crank journals, and cylinder walls all seem in pretty good shape. I was debating putting new rod bearings in, but the rod and crank bearings look so good, I almost don't want to get involved with it. My budget build is starting to get pricey, and every time I take something apart, I'm replacing with better
This piston was the most cruddy. Lil surface rust, I'm assuming a little water got in this cylinder while it was sitting. I'll make a diesel "hot tub" and end up letting all the pistons sit, soak, and get the gunk off.
Waiting for delivery!
First off, I'm part of the crew now, kinda? Got my "dat purp" hat in from Ray at RPM on Saturday. Great quality hat for sure!
Decided I'm so deep in, might as well just take apart the rest of the way to have a look at everything. Pulled trays and lifters. Then removed pan and started pulling plugs. Lifters, rod bearings, crank journals, and cylinder walls all seem in pretty good shape. I was debating putting new rod bearings in, but the rod and crank bearings look so good, I almost don't want to get involved with it. My budget build is starting to get pricey, and every time I take something apart, I'm replacing with better
This piston was the most cruddy. Lil surface rust, I'm assuming a little water got in this cylinder while it was sitting. I'll make a diesel "hot tub" and end up letting all the pistons sit, soak, and get the gunk off.
Waiting for delivery!
Last edited by Dusty B; Jan 26, 2014 at 07:57 PM.
Stock MLS head gaskets should do you just fine.
Did you go ahead and pull the crank out? If you did, I would go ahead and make a trip to get the block either hot tanked so it is super clean and ready for fresh paint, or give it a good purple power and power washing at the local ice block wash.. I know you guys don't have working car washes right now due to all the frozen weather up there.
Since you are so far in, would be a waste of time to not do it.. see what I mean?
Since it is actually pretty clean anyways, it should be done in a day and ready for pickup.
While you are waiting on all the stuff to come in you ordered anyways.
Did you go ahead and pull the crank out? If you did, I would go ahead and make a trip to get the block either hot tanked so it is super clean and ready for fresh paint, or give it a good purple power and power washing at the local ice block wash.. I know you guys don't have working car washes right now due to all the frozen weather up there.
Since you are so far in, would be a waste of time to not do it.. see what I mean?
Since it is actually pretty clean anyways, it should be done in a day and ready for pickup.
While you are waiting on all the stuff to come in you ordered anyways.
Last edited by BigEd_72455; Jan 28, 2014 at 03:39 AM.
Didn't initially realize that the stock rod bolts are torque to yield. Guess I need to get some of those now....
EDIT- After a lot of reading it seems most guys just re-use the stockers. No note in GM service manual to replace rod or mains when they are removed.
EDIT- After a lot of reading it seems most guys just re-use the stockers. No note in GM service manual to replace rod or mains when they are removed.
Last edited by Dusty B; Feb 2, 2014 at 01:23 PM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 70
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis
Stock rod bolts are not torque to yield, they are torque to angle, the difference is TTY is a one time stretch, TTA can be stretched more than once. Most people re-use them if they don't plan on spinning more than 6,500RPM. If you decide to upgrade the bolt, Katech and ARP are the two companies that will come up most often. ARP's are less money, but with either bolt you'll need to remove the metal sleeve, called a ferral, inside the connecting rod cap in order to install the larger shank bolt. I've heard that ARP recommends machining the rods after you install the bolts, and Katech doesn't not, however I've seen and had success running ARPs without machining, and not had a problem, although my motor usually never sees over 4,000RPM.
Stock rod bolts are not torque to yield, they are torque to angle, the difference is TTY is a one time stretch, TTA can be stretched more than once. Most people re-use them if they don't plan on spinning more than 6,500RPM. If you decide to upgrade the bolt, Katech and ARP are the two companies that will come up most often. ARP's are less money, but with either bolt you'll need to remove the metal sleeve, called a ferral, inside the connecting rod cap in order to install the larger shank bolt. I've heard that ARP recommends machining the rods after you install the bolts, and Katech doesn't not, however I've seen and had success running ARPs without machining, and not had a problem, although my motor usually never sees over 4,000RPM.
Yeah, I understand the difference between the TTY and TTA bolts, I just hadn't discovered until recently that the rod bolts were TTA.
I had planned on spinning this motor to 7k. That may end up changing, or I may take the risk on the stock rod bolts. Not trying to set any records, just want a fun little budget build. Once the thing is in and everything sorted out, I'll be a little less nervous. Figure if I pop the L33, I can just kind of slam whatever 5.3, aluminum or iron, in there on the cheap once all the fab and initial bigger dollar items are done with. T56 is next on chopping block. After that, the nickel and dime flood begins.
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Verdad Gallardo OK, why chance something that takes a LOT of work to both clean up and fix? Buy the ARP bolts and get them put in. Plain and simple. Do not take a chance on something that has take a long time to get together and even longer to complete.
Well, not too much progress. Figured I'd still update this a little.
My take over of the workbench at the shop:
Some mo' parts:
Freshy fresh heads with comp valvetrain:
Fresh hone, yeah I know I haven't cleaned the mating surface yet:
Diesel bath. Can see the before in the first pic. Second one is the soak. Third is after a night in the bath and 2 min of light scrubbing:
My take over of the workbench at the shop:
Some mo' parts:
Freshy fresh heads with comp valvetrain:
Fresh hone, yeah I know I haven't cleaned the mating surface yet:
Diesel bath. Can see the before in the first pic. Second one is the soak. Third is after a night in the bath and 2 min of light scrubbing:
Finally made my way over to the shop for a little work.
Started disassembling and cleaning pistons, pins, and whatnot. Got to cylinder #2, and the pin did not move freely in the piston, but it did in the rod end. Took a little light tapping to get it out. There is some slight discoloration just from normal use, but I could not find a carbon deposit, or ridge that would make this pin not be able to "float" as it should. Talked with BigEd (thank you) and now he has me thinking it might be a bent pin, but I'm not going to call it that until I check it out a little further. Hopefully it's nothing serious that a soapy bath and emery cloth can't fix.
Rod assembly in question:
Started disassembling and cleaning pistons, pins, and whatnot. Got to cylinder #2, and the pin did not move freely in the piston, but it did in the rod end. Took a little light tapping to get it out. There is some slight discoloration just from normal use, but I could not find a carbon deposit, or ridge that would make this pin not be able to "float" as it should. Talked with BigEd (thank you) and now he has me thinking it might be a bent pin, but I'm not going to call it that until I check it out a little further. Hopefully it's nothing serious that a soapy bath and emery cloth can't fix.
Rod assembly in question:
So I'm about to railroad my own thread...
Can't believe it's been about 2 months, and I have next to no progress on l33. Shortblock assembled and that's about it; the house and family have been keeping me busy.
Decided to work on another project that I have at the house: a 2006 PT Cruiser GT 5spd that I picked up last year and has been sitting. Got her going, and added some srt4 parts to her. Probably about the best sleeper I've EVER had.
Mod List: Precision 6262, AGP log manifold, Tial 38mm EWG, qtp electric cutout, 888 injectors, walbro 255, granatelli wires and pack, AGP hardpipes, AGP race FMIC, Aeroforce scangage, prosport pro boost, zietronix wideband.
I reg'd the car this past weekend and have been driving it to work this week. The car is a hoot. With the low boost of 14psi right now it is unbelievably quick. In another week or so I'll kick it up to 22psi or so and see what happens. The looks this thing gets based on it's outter appearance, and the noises coming from the engine bay alone are enough to have smiles for days. See pictures below, and no, I'm not kidding, this is the car.
Grandpa faux woodgrain. Keeping it classy.
It lives
Current exterior
Flame away!
Can't believe it's been about 2 months, and I have next to no progress on l33. Shortblock assembled and that's about it; the house and family have been keeping me busy.
Decided to work on another project that I have at the house: a 2006 PT Cruiser GT 5spd that I picked up last year and has been sitting. Got her going, and added some srt4 parts to her. Probably about the best sleeper I've EVER had.
Mod List: Precision 6262, AGP log manifold, Tial 38mm EWG, qtp electric cutout, 888 injectors, walbro 255, granatelli wires and pack, AGP hardpipes, AGP race FMIC, Aeroforce scangage, prosport pro boost, zietronix wideband.
I reg'd the car this past weekend and have been driving it to work this week. The car is a hoot. With the low boost of 14psi right now it is unbelievably quick. In another week or so I'll kick it up to 22psi or so and see what happens. The looks this thing gets based on it's outter appearance, and the noises coming from the engine bay alone are enough to have smiles for days. See pictures below, and no, I'm not kidding, this is the car.
Grandpa faux woodgrain. Keeping it classy.
It lives
Current exterior
Flame away!
In short: Yes
You have to keep in mind that my legacy and the engine are stored 2 towns away. It's tough to get there on the regular. True be told, when I kick up the PSI on this it will most likely be faster than the legacy will be anyways :sadbanana:
Honestly, you can't see much if anything in the pictures I have since everything is buried under firewall, fenders, and rad support. For instance, I tried to get a picture of the 6262 the other day when I had the inlet off, and this is the best I could get.
You have to keep in mind that my legacy and the engine are stored 2 towns away. It's tough to get there on the regular. True be told, when I kick up the PSI on this it will most likely be faster than the legacy will be anyways :sadbanana:
Honestly, you can't see much if anything in the pictures I have since everything is buried under firewall, fenders, and rad support. For instance, I tried to get a picture of the 6262 the other day when I had the inlet off, and this is the best I could get.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,291
Likes: 3,616
From: Central Cal.
@Dusty B did you ever finish this? I'm thinking about putting an LS and 6 speed auto ( from a Holden Commodore ) into my 2007 Legacy wagon.
