5.3 L33 Hp goals help!
11-30-2013, 04:13 PM
#41
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l33 comes with 243 or 799 heads only. lm7 has 862 and 706 heads. l33 has flat tops lm7 does not. l33 has slightly bigger cam over lm7. I do agree that the iron block could take boost better tho.
11-30-2013, 05:52 PM
#42
Just my opinion but I did basically the same thing two years ago except I did it with an iron block. I've come to the following conclusion: easiest way to get to 500hp(and maybe the cheapest), be good at the track, on the street, friendly to boost or spray........... more cubes. Build a rock solid bottom end, good breathing heads and a good camshaft. Then do what you want to it and not have to worry.
To get a 5.3 to 500hp you have to spin it high. Torque and HP are directly related. So to make 500hp reliable you need cubic inches. Yes, you've read a 4.8 turbo can make 500hp, an L33 can be stretched to it's limits and make it. Do you really want to build and work your motor to the limits.
To get a 5.3 to 500hp you have to spin it high. Torque and HP are directly related. So to make 500hp reliable you need cubic inches. Yes, you've read a 4.8 turbo can make 500hp, an L33 can be stretched to it's limits and make it. Do you really want to build and work your motor to the limits.
Last edited by fox12303; 12-02-2013 at 07:00 PM.
12-01-2013, 03:24 AM
#43
I ran Patriot Golds for about 30k miles over a few years. Buzzed 7K ( limiter ) almost every day I drove it. I shifted at 68 1-2 and when I sold the engine there were about 4 valves with some pitting in the center. Not ideal I know BUT...
Aftermarket alum roller rockers snap all the damn time in these engines. The 1.7 ratio does them in and the factory arms are lighter, less prone to float, and PROVEN! Some guys dumped a bearing cage or three but for the most part? Solid.
I spin my L92 to 7500 often, stock rockers. Single beehive PAC spring. Mild lobe cam though. I hope to get a lot longer life from this package.
Anyways I should watch my step with the roller rocker comments, theres more out there now than im even aware of and maybe some have solved those issues and run reliably? Who knows, do your homework is all I can say to that.
12-01-2013, 11:25 AM
#45
I run a business unrelated to mechanical stuff but I own a shop and build a lot of stuff, cars mostly, some boats, sleds etc. Im a lifetime gearhead and a HUGE LSx fan, I was an early adopter and like the way these engines work so much that I sold off all my BBC and sbc stuff. Never looked back 
12-02-2013, 08:07 PM
#46
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this question is more geared toward someone who might be doing the swap in a 350z. my350z.com hasnt been any help yet.
What PCM should I use with this 5.3 if Im using a DBW throttle body? or will it be less hassle to have a cable operated TB?
What PCM should I use with this 5.3 if Im using a DBW throttle body? or will it be less hassle to have a cable operated TB?
12-02-2013, 08:14 PM
#47
PCM would be easy to figure out, just get the harness and pcm from the same engine that buy. as for the dbw setup, that would be more of what YOU are comfortable figuring out. You do have to have a pedal assembly, and that may require having the computer flashed and tuned to work with your setup.
05-15-2018, 01:46 AM
#48
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I run a business unrelated to mechanical stuff but I own a shop and build a lot of stuff, cars mostly, some boats, sleds etc. Im a lifetime gearhead and a HUGE LSx fan, I was an early adopter and like the way these engines work so much that I sold off all my BBC and sbc stuff. Never looked back
