Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

What is the best way to test this?? My brake switch has 2 wires I spliced into the wire that goes hot when the brake is applied. Is that correct??

Mike_hawk

I used a 5 pin relay for my brakes with the diagram below, I just hooked it up and listened to see if the relay clicked when I hit the brakes

lynx853

iTrader: (8)

If you unplug the maf, the engine goes into open loop and runs off the data tables instead of live data. If you unplug the sensor, it will throw an engine light- basically saying "hey, I'm not getting data from this sensor" but then go to the predetermined data tables. If the car runs normally in open loop (data tables) then you know the sensor is out of wack or bad.

to the OP.

I had a similar problem that's worth checking into when I thought it was the MAF or PCM. It was actually because I guess I got a bad batch of gas. Ethanol absorbs water... if you got a bad batch of gas (old) or let the car sit for a while it can cause it not to be able to hold an idle.

something worth checking that might be an easy fix.

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

I've been driving the car a lot. So the fuel is not sitting very long. I've filled the tank (15 gal) 3 times in the past month and a half. There is always at least a 1/4 tank in there.

99MUSTANG5.3L

No, the computer is sending a ground signal to the torque converter it to lock up and you need to drop out that signal for it to unlock when the brakes are applied. To do this you need to wire in a relay like the one posted earlier and wire it so that when the brakes are applied the TCC wire is given 12v. There was a write up on here that included a diagram. Try a search for TCC wiring and it may come up for you.Found a good diagram.http://www.jaguarspecialties.com/pho...tus-Wiring.jpg

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so basically my wiring is totally wrong. That explains A LOT!! I thought the issue was resolved, but it is still wanting to do it if I rapidly decelerate. If I kind of coast and slowly brake to a stop then it is fine.

The longer I am driving the more prone it is to do it. I'm going to have to re-wire that TCC. Thanks for the link and diagram guys.

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

Thanks again!!

mountainman

Is the TCC wire and the brake switch wire important if your not running an electronically controlled transmission? I am having a stalling issue, but running a turbo400. I have the neutral safety wire just grounded at all times, and the other wires arent hooked up?

Mike_hawk

Chiropaul no problem, lt1swap.c0m has a ton of info for wiring I couldn't have done my swap without it. Mountain man, if your engine originally had an automatic, you probably have to flash your ECU for a manual trans.

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

The neutral safety wire activates a rev limiter. If you are running a non-electronic transmission, leave it unhooked. I ran the turbo400 in my s10 and never hooked it up.

I never had an issue with stalling in my S10. Regardless of the speed when I tried to stop.

406chvycamaro

iTrader: (7)

Biged are you running a vehicle speed sensor with your turbo 400?

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

No. I used phones gps for speedometer. I had a plain jane typical stock converter in my 400 so I have not had to deal with any of the LOCKUP stuff you guys with electronic transmissions do.

406chvycamaro

iTrader: (7)

Ive got a turbo 400 aswell but was told I may have problems without a vss input to the ecm? Was your car able to be tuned without one?

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

I have had a conversation in the past with Brendan at LT1swap and we talked about using the neutral safety based internal rev limiter for something like a trans brake for drag racing. He said in theory it could be used, but it is a fuel cut type of system, not an ignition cut like the MSD and other brands use when the rev limiter activates on those setups. We talked about trying it out on my computer when I got a transbrake installed in my S-10, but I never got that done.

Now, having thought about the idea, since it is a fuel cut, it is not as accurate of a limiter as the ignition cut is. The fuel cut revs 300-500 RPM in factory vehicles, and if you release the transbrake on a down swing, when it hits, you have no fuel going to the cylinders and are launching on a power loss cycle, instead of a power gain cycle.

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

I never had mine tuned after Brendan did it. It ran fast enough for the time being, and until I made more modifications to the power train, I was not spending $200+ to get it done.

I had no problem leaving LOTS of the rubber from these little 14" tires all over my home town streets.

406chvycamaro

iTrader: (7)

Thanks

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

Yep. I sent Brendan a text from LT1swap, maybe he will chime in on this topic and offer some info that might not have been mentioned.

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

Is this setup a drive by wire or by cable?

Brendan said DBC should be ok, but dbw will almost always die.

*edit * Without the speed sensor, that is..

Indyjc

iTrader: (1)

Chiropaul if you get this figured out please let us know. I've had this issue for a while now, but from what I understand it is in the tune. Good luck!

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

With Christmas and my practice I've been super busy, but I should finally get time to wire up the relay tomorrow and give it a shot. I will let everyone know as soon as I try that.

I'm running a th400 with an internal VSS btw. The pcm has been throwing two trans related codes P1810 and P1860. Which kind of pisses me off since my tuner knew I was running a TH400 and I assumed they would have tuned the pcm for a manual. Btw the tune is a mail order from Texas Speed to get the car rolling.