Fox Mustang, LS1/T56, Max Motorsports, IRS, engine relo, custom headers, etc
08-08-2014, 01:19 PM
#61
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Thanks, going slow but making progress.
Went on vacation last weekend and got back and recovered over the last couple days. Tonight I want to finish the subframes and start mounting the IRS. Then on to adapting the 2003 Cobra exhaust and after that I need to start wiring harness and building the clutch hydraulics. Then I can do all the rest of the little details, the process of which I am greatly understating.
Went on vacation last weekend and got back and recovered over the last couple days. Tonight I want to finish the subframes and start mounting the IRS. Then on to adapting the 2003 Cobra exhaust and after that I need to start wiring harness and building the clutch hydraulics. Then I can do all the rest of the little details, the process of which I am greatly understating.
08-27-2014, 03:07 PM
#62
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Got the subframe connectors done and pulled the 7.5" axle.
Removed the solid axle bump stops and started fitting the IRS rear mount brackets. Got the IRS test fit in and out a few times to progressively figure out what needs to be modified . I still need to drill the two new holes for each mount bracket and modify the brackets to allow the second side bolt hole to line up with the quad shock bolt holes. Also need to order some new bushings and put them in prior to final installation.
Removed the solid axle bump stops and started fitting the IRS rear mount brackets. Got the IRS test fit in and out a few times to progressively figure out what needs to be modified . I still need to drill the two new holes for each mount bracket and modify the brackets to allow the second side bolt hole to line up with the quad shock bolt holes. Also need to order some new bushings and put them in prior to final installation.
09-29-2014, 09:56 PM
#63
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So I have been continuing but I haven't made many updates lately. The IRS is pretty much in and I need to finish the mounting bolts which need to be added to the fox chassis. Pretty simple and mostly done but I got distracted with the steering shaft in the middle of the IRS install.
I picked up a 2004 Cobra steering rack for the car, and if you are familiar with them, the SN95 steering shafts are different than the Fox shafts. I can buy an adapter shaft from Maximum Motorsports for $240 but honestly I didn't want to spend that much money. Given my cheapness I decided to make my own from an SN95 shaft and the original Fox shaft. Just bolting the SN95 drive flange to the Fox shaft will make the steering wheel clock off to an angle with the tires straight ahead, and I did not want that.
First I cut the tang off the top of the Fox shaft. Next I cut the tube off the forged u-joint on the SN95 shaft and knocked the tube out of the square hole with a drift. From there I chucked the Fox tang in my milling machine (sort of like a vertical lathe, because I don't have a lathe) and cut down the bottom section of the tang to the same diameter as the square in the SN95 shaft. After positioning it all in the car to make sure the rack was centered and the parts all fit, I marked the two pieces and took them out and tack welded them together. From there I stuck them back in the car and made sure it all still worked.
I'm sure some will think the welding setup is somewhat ghetto, and maybe it is, but it worked OK for me. I order to NOT destroy the roller bearings in the u-joints I had to figure out a way to keep heat out of them while TIG-ing it all together. I figured submerging the bearings in a bucket of water would keep the heat out, and frankly, if it doesn't work, I've only wasted $20. While welding the bucket of water kept the steel below the surface of the water at the same temp as the water. I welded around the perimeter in spots rather than do one continuous weld. I could physically stick my hand in the water and touch the bearings after the welding was done and the water was not hot at all below the surface. There was some boiling at the water surface but when I stuck my finger in it, the boiling was only occurring at the surface and not below the surface.
Once done, I let it dry for a few days and hit it with some paint. Looks like $220 saved to me.
I picked up a 2004 Cobra steering rack for the car, and if you are familiar with them, the SN95 steering shafts are different than the Fox shafts. I can buy an adapter shaft from Maximum Motorsports for $240 but honestly I didn't want to spend that much money. Given my cheapness I decided to make my own from an SN95 shaft and the original Fox shaft. Just bolting the SN95 drive flange to the Fox shaft will make the steering wheel clock off to an angle with the tires straight ahead, and I did not want that.
First I cut the tang off the top of the Fox shaft. Next I cut the tube off the forged u-joint on the SN95 shaft and knocked the tube out of the square hole with a drift. From there I chucked the Fox tang in my milling machine (sort of like a vertical lathe, because I don't have a lathe) and cut down the bottom section of the tang to the same diameter as the square in the SN95 shaft. After positioning it all in the car to make sure the rack was centered and the parts all fit, I marked the two pieces and took them out and tack welded them together. From there I stuck them back in the car and made sure it all still worked.
I'm sure some will think the welding setup is somewhat ghetto, and maybe it is, but it worked OK for me. I order to NOT destroy the roller bearings in the u-joints I had to figure out a way to keep heat out of them while TIG-ing it all together. I figured submerging the bearings in a bucket of water would keep the heat out, and frankly, if it doesn't work, I've only wasted $20. While welding the bucket of water kept the steel below the surface of the water at the same temp as the water. I welded around the perimeter in spots rather than do one continuous weld. I could physically stick my hand in the water and touch the bearings after the welding was done and the water was not hot at all below the surface. There was some boiling at the water surface but when I stuck my finger in it, the boiling was only occurring at the surface and not below the surface.
Once done, I let it dry for a few days and hit it with some paint. Looks like $220 saved to me.
09-29-2014, 10:06 PM
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Here are some clearance pics on my hybrid steering shaft and 2010 Camaro manifolds. The thread linked below has people saying the manifolds fit and others said they do not.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ox-swap-2.html
Here is where my engine is located in my engine bay, and the manifolds fit perfect:
Vertical measurement is 8 1/2" from top of valley cover to center of pinch weld.
Fore/aft measurement the engine is 20.0" from the firewall directly above the pinch weld to the front machined surface on the block where the timing cover mounts. Centered on engine.
Crank center from the inside of pass side frame rail is about 14 7/8" and about 17 1/8" to the inside of drivers frame rail.
Engine leans back at a 2.1 deg angle as measured relative to the bottom of the frame rails.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ox-swap-2.html
Here is where my engine is located in my engine bay, and the manifolds fit perfect:
Vertical measurement is 8 1/2" from top of valley cover to center of pinch weld.
Fore/aft measurement the engine is 20.0" from the firewall directly above the pinch weld to the front machined surface on the block where the timing cover mounts. Centered on engine.
Crank center from the inside of pass side frame rail is about 14 7/8" and about 17 1/8" to the inside of drivers frame rail.
Engine leans back at a 2.1 deg angle as measured relative to the bottom of the frame rails.
09-30-2014, 05:30 AM
#65
So I have been continuing but I haven't made many updates lately. The IRS is pretty much in and I need to finish the mounting bolts which need to be added to the fox chassis. Pretty simple and mostly done but I got distracted with the steering shaft in the middle of the IRS install.
I picked up a 2004 Cobra steering rack for the car, and if you are familiar with them, the SN95 steering shafts are different than the Fox shafts. I can buy an adapter shaft from Maximum Motorsports for $240 but honestly I didn't want to spend that much money. Given my cheapness I decided to make my own from an SN95 shaft and the original Fox shaft. Just bolting the SN95 drive flange to the Fox shaft will make the steering wheel clock off to an angle with the tires straight ahead, and I did not want that.
First I cut the tang off the top of the Fox shaft. Next I cut the tube off the forged u-joint on the SN95 shaft and knocked the tube out of the square hole with a drift. From there I chucked the Fox tang in my milling machine (sort of like a vertical lathe, because I don't have a lathe) and cut down the bottom section of the tang to the same diameter as the square in the SN95 shaft. After positioning it all in the car to make sure the rack was centered and the parts all fit, I marked the two pieces and took them out and tack welded them together. From there I stuck them back in the car and made sure it all still worked.
I'm sure some will think the welding setup is somewhat ghetto, and maybe it is, but it worked OK for me. I order to NOT destroy the roller bearings in the u-joints I had to figure out a way to keep heat out of them while TIG-ing it all together. I figured submerging the bearings in a bucket of water would keep the heat out, and frankly, if it doesn't work, I've only wasted $20. While welding the bucket of water kept the steel below the surface of the water at the same temp as the water. I welded around the perimeter in spots rather than do one continuous weld. I could physically stick my hand in the water and touch the bearings after the welding was done and the water was not hot at all below the surface. There was some boiling at the water surface but when I stuck my finger in it, the boiling was only occurring at the surface and not below the surface.
Once done, I let it dry for a few days and hit it with some paint. Looks like $220 saved to me.
I picked up a 2004 Cobra steering rack for the car, and if you are familiar with them, the SN95 steering shafts are different than the Fox shafts. I can buy an adapter shaft from Maximum Motorsports for $240 but honestly I didn't want to spend that much money. Given my cheapness I decided to make my own from an SN95 shaft and the original Fox shaft. Just bolting the SN95 drive flange to the Fox shaft will make the steering wheel clock off to an angle with the tires straight ahead, and I did not want that.
First I cut the tang off the top of the Fox shaft. Next I cut the tube off the forged u-joint on the SN95 shaft and knocked the tube out of the square hole with a drift. From there I chucked the Fox tang in my milling machine (sort of like a vertical lathe, because I don't have a lathe) and cut down the bottom section of the tang to the same diameter as the square in the SN95 shaft. After positioning it all in the car to make sure the rack was centered and the parts all fit, I marked the two pieces and took them out and tack welded them together. From there I stuck them back in the car and made sure it all still worked.
I'm sure some will think the welding setup is somewhat ghetto, and maybe it is, but it worked OK for me. I order to NOT destroy the roller bearings in the u-joints I had to figure out a way to keep heat out of them while TIG-ing it all together. I figured submerging the bearings in a bucket of water would keep the heat out, and frankly, if it doesn't work, I've only wasted $20. While welding the bucket of water kept the steel below the surface of the water at the same temp as the water. I welded around the perimeter in spots rather than do one continuous weld. I could physically stick my hand in the water and touch the bearings after the welding was done and the water was not hot at all below the surface. There was some boiling at the water surface but when I stuck my finger in it, the boiling was only occurring at the surface and not below the surface.
Once done, I let it dry for a few days and hit it with some paint. Looks like $220 saved to me.
03-27-2015, 07:34 PM
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Yeah but my second job has taken about 80% of my free time since December and the remaining time has been spent with the kids and wife. I got a pretty big job with a new customer and its almost over.
Have accumulated a bunch of needed parts just have not installed them yet. Thanks for asking, I need to get moving on it again.
Have accumulated a bunch of needed parts just have not installed them yet. Thanks for asking, I need to get moving on it again.
03-27-2015, 10:26 PM
#68
Just read through your entire thread; it appears we are building very similar cars.
On a related note, I just received my max motorsports hybrid steering shafts and I should have done what you did...wasn't really impressed with what $240 got me.
Keep up the good work!
On a related note, I just received my max motorsports hybrid steering shafts and I should have done what you did...wasn't really impressed with what $240 got me.
Keep up the good work!
03-28-2015, 10:12 AM
#69
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Yeah but my second job has taken about 80% of my free time since December and the remaining time has been spent with the kids and wife. I got a pretty big job with a new customer and its almost over.
Have accumulated a bunch of needed parts just have not installed them yet. Thanks for asking, I need to get moving on it again.
Have accumulated a bunch of needed parts just have not installed them yet. Thanks for asking, I need to get moving on it again.
Hopefully you can get to it soon. I'm interested to see some pics of what you do with the pedal assembly and hydraulics to make the t56 work.
03-31-2015, 07:26 AM
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Just read through your entire thread; it appears we are building very similar cars.
On a related note, I just received my max motorsports hybrid steering shafts and I should have done what you did...wasn't really impressed with what $240 got me.
Keep up the good work!
On a related note, I just received my max motorsports hybrid steering shafts and I should have done what you did...wasn't really impressed with what $240 got me.
Keep up the good work!
03-31-2015, 07:30 AM
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For the clutch my plan is to use s Wildwood remote MC in push configuration and mounted similar to a Ford Ranger setup. I estimate I can build and buy all the MC parts for about $100-$120.
09-07-2016, 10:10 AM
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Wow, I can't believe it's been a year and a half since my last update.
So I did some work on how to make the hydraulic clutch stuff functional using the typical Wilwood / Tilton Girling style master cylinder, so it self bleeds as best as possible, and the pushrod angle isn't too bad, and the clutch cylinder is as far out of the way as possible for header clearance.
Then I picked up two more customers for my side business, and I designed about 20 products in the last year in my part time. The side business is putting my kids through collage, so it's hard to drop it and work on the car... Lately I've been thinking if I did the part time business full time, then I could work half as much, and earn slightly less then I do now. Maybe that's what I need to do. It's sort of feast or famine cyclical business though, so it's hard to just go solo.
That's as far as I got on the car in 1.5 years. The plan for a hydraulic clutch.
I guess this isn't much different than my last update. I talked to the boss about just dropping the car off at a local shop and having them do a bunch of stuff to expedite, but the shop I would have dropped it off at went out of business, so I just went back to work and have not thought about it much since then.
So I did some work on how to make the hydraulic clutch stuff functional using the typical Wilwood / Tilton Girling style master cylinder, so it self bleeds as best as possible, and the pushrod angle isn't too bad, and the clutch cylinder is as far out of the way as possible for header clearance.
Then I picked up two more customers for my side business, and I designed about 20 products in the last year in my part time. The side business is putting my kids through collage, so it's hard to drop it and work on the car... Lately I've been thinking if I did the part time business full time, then I could work half as much, and earn slightly less then I do now. Maybe that's what I need to do. It's sort of feast or famine cyclical business though, so it's hard to just go solo.
That's as far as I got on the car in 1.5 years. The plan for a hydraulic clutch.
I guess this isn't much different than my last update. I talked to the boss about just dropping the car off at a local shop and having them do a bunch of stuff to expedite, but the shop I would have dropped it off at went out of business, so I just went back to work and have not thought about it much since then.
06-06-2017, 08:17 AM
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I'm still alive but that's about it. I've gotten the garage cleaned out and am about to begin working again. The last several years have just gone by too fast.
My 6 year old is all interested in helping, so I think he will help on Saturday afternoons for a while, and I will work on it in the evenings again.
My 6 year old is all interested in helping, so I think he will help on Saturday afternoons for a while, and I will work on it in the evenings again.
08-15-2017, 02:34 PM
#76
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So to conclude this build thread, I don't see myself finishing this project. Also, I don't see this project as being highly interactive with my kids given the ages they are at. Every time I get ready to work on it and make a plan to complete a task at a specific time, something comes up which we can do as a family, and I choose to go do the family stuff instead.
Also, lately my wife and kids and myself have been going out on the water and doing stuff pretty frequently. The wife and kids are dying to have a boat, and frankly I'd like one too. Thanks for reading, but I'm going to part out the project and use the money to buy a small boat and a cheap 94/95 5.0 Mustang to daily drive.
Will trade for Boston Whaler?
Also, lately my wife and kids and myself have been going out on the water and doing stuff pretty frequently. The wife and kids are dying to have a boat, and frankly I'd like one too. Thanks for reading, but I'm going to part out the project and use the money to buy a small boat and a cheap 94/95 5.0 Mustang to daily drive.
Will trade for Boston Whaler?
08-15-2017, 02:43 PM
#77
Sounds like a good choice if you're getting into something you can enjoy with your whole family. Be prepared to spend even more money than you're used to with a car hobby...BOAT is an acronym that stands for Break Out Another Thousand.
08-15-2017, 02:59 PM
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Break Out Another Thousand, that's not so different than many car hobbies...
I'm going to buy a no-frills boat, which I will be able to maintain on my own, with except of engine machining services in case of outboard rebuild. That's not much different than my car hobby where I do 98% of my own work. Probably will buy a Montauk 17, they are very simple, think of it as a tractor for the water.
Thanks
I'm going to buy a no-frills boat, which I will be able to maintain on my own, with except of engine machining services in case of outboard rebuild. That's not much different than my car hobby where I do 98% of my own work. Probably will buy a Montauk 17, they are very simple, think of it as a tractor for the water.
Thanks
09-01-2017, 12:36 PM
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Awesome thread I just found and read this entire thread. I'm very sad to see it stopping short of completetion, but I understand life happens. I have already IRS swapped my Fox and just purchased an LS3/TR6060 and will be doing the swap this winter. You have given me a lot of ideas, and done a lot of the reasearch for me and saved me hours of looking things up. Thank you for documenting this build with a great amount of pictures as well. If you are interested in selling or parting out as you mentioned please PM me or txt me, there are a few things I'd be interested in that I haven't purchased yet. ~Jim 607 382 SEVEN THREE TWO THREE
