1966 GTO Refresh
On the road to Jackson Hole, WY
I planned to reinstall the tranny today, but since the car is already partially dismantled, I decided to pull the engine and paint it and install a camshaft I have from a 2001 ZO6 corvette. When we tuned the car, it was tuned for regular gas (for a broke college student). With the cam upgrade and tuned for premium, the car should be even more fun to drive. Here is the car after I pulled the tranny. Next weekend I will pull the motor.
The engine bay right now.
Don't try this with a carburetor!



I suspect that your vibration is related to improper driveline angles. This is a common problem with LS swaps into A-bodies, especially if they are lowered.
Andrew
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It is a chevrolet car blue from 2004. The name/code is on the can in the garage.
I suspect that your vibration is related to improper driveline angles. This is a common problem with LS swaps into A-bodies, especially if they are lowered.
Andrew
I am just starting to research this issue. I used an electronic angle finder when I set it up, and I think it was 3.5 degrees down on the tranny and 3.5 up on the rear, with the rear end being below the tranny at ride height. One potential problem is the length of the driveshaft. It is steel, 53.5 inches long and 3 inches in diameter. One big driveshaft shop does not recommend anything over 52 inches in 3 inch steel. I'm thinking about a 3.5 inch aluminum shaft (rated to 500 HP), but I still am researching.
Where were your pictures shot? On the way to Yellowstone my wife and I went through Estes Park and through Rocky Mountain National Park - it sure looks like the same territory. And yes, once you have one of these cars set up, they cannot be beat!
Ricky
shot from the top of the world in Rocky Mountain National Park
Last edited by RicOtt; Feb 1, 2016 at 09:50 PM.
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I also used to live in Memphis, in Midtown, around Union and McLean...LOL
Chasing driveline issues takes a long time. Before you go swapping parts, you need to spend a lot of time with a dial indicator and determine how much run-out you have at the trans, front and rear of the driveshaft and at the pinion yoke. Obviously the u-joints need to be in good shape. Once all that is verified, you can start working with angles.
A 3" mild steel shaft of 54 inches has a critical speed of 5856 RPM (http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshafttech.aspx). So it's not a concern on the highway, but I would be worried if you went faster.
Andrew
Andrew
My wife and I have rooms in West Yellowstone, MT for Labor day weekend - I am driving the GTO to Bozeman, MT and picking her up at the airport. We will spend several days in Yellowstone and then we are headed up to Glacier and on in to Canada (Calgary) after that. I will have the driveline issues corrected before then, and some other upgrades. I will post pictures as I do the upgrades.
Ricky
The Wallace Racing data that Andrew referenced above for critical speed makes an assumption about wall thickness --- you don't happen to know what wall thickness tubing was actually used on your DS do you? In any event, if my brain/calc didn't let me down, you're spinning the DS at about 4920 rpm at 100 mph, and that's not very far from getting into the 5856 rpm critical speed referenced above.
All that to say -- yup, I think a move to a 3.5" aluminum unit (minimum) and a check of the driveline angles are in order. As for a CV joint on one end of the DS, I think Andrew can tell you all about that... Good luck!








