lsxRanger94

If your intake manifold doesn't have the inserts to mount the throttle cable bracket, you can get them from potz. also the tb usually has a crankcase vent hose barb that will have to be removed from the throttle body and plugged. my 05 was missing these inserts w/dbw and the tb would not bolt up without removal to the cc vent tube on the tb. I hope this helps if you didn't already know.

cjjohn

i didn't have to drill anything. The oil pan was on a shelf from a local shop, maybe it wasn't from a Camero?

deucestudios

Thanks, I'll take all the info I can get.

Yeah, not sure what you have, but I ended up with a pan with no hole and a block with no hole.

This is what I'm talking about drilling, and the little block template thinger:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e.../photo_06.html

deucestudios

lsxRanger, I looked at that today, did you plug the side of the throttle body for the CC vent, then run the line through the intake? to mount the TB I was able to just rotate the line that's on it, might just use a rubber plug & hose clamp.

Atlas is mounted, floor is cut, twin sticks are in.
Alternator & power steering pump are in.
Cable throttle is hooked up to the cruise control nub on the throttle body, works for now.
Wiring continues...

deucestudios

^That looks like this now.

There's a short list of wiring left:
MAF sensor (forgot I had unpinned it, a little bit of loom has to come off)
Starter relay (all wiring is at the Jeep Relay Box, just needs tied up)
Fuel Pump relay (all wiring is at the Jeep Relay Box, just needs tied up)
ASD Relay, I just need to make sure it's not going to screw me, so I need to read up on it a bit.
Gauges (8 wires pulled into under dash)
Big 3 upgrade
Grounds

buddy's are calling the loom crocodile **** haha...

lsxRanger94

I removed and plugged my tb vent tube just to tidy up the area and maybe one less possible vacuum leak.

lsxRanger94

Did you get your dipstick for you engine? GTO blocks have a small plug by the oil pan rail you knock out to put a dipstick through when changing pans. Maybe envoy blocks are the same.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...k-ls1-ls2.html

deucestudios

Nope, the general shape of the casting is there, but there's no hole, no plug.

I need to figure out a clutch master/slave combo that works. One that doesn't use stupid plastic line between.

In other news, I got a radiator mounted.



Tight fit...

lsxRanger94

Can you run a hydraulic throw out bearing/master cylinder instead?

deucestudios

edit. sorry just saw your question. I could in theory but the engine & trans have to come out together, not enough room to seperate them in the Jeep. so that's a last resort at this point...

Question:
If I hook in a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the engine bay (Tee off stock sender location), and use the starter to turn the motor, it should show pressure within a second or two if the new oil pump I put in has primed... right?

Dash is coming together, waiting on more gauges from Summit.
Need to do something about the steering wheel, but for now, I don't have money for show, only go.

lsxRanger94

The easiest way to prime it is to use an oil primer tank. you can buy or build one out of pvc pipe. Did you install the pump dry or did you put assembly lube on the gears? Did you put the correct o ring on the pickup tube and make sure it didn't roll up or tear? Did you fill the oil filter with oil? If you did all that, it will take quite a bit of cranking to build oil pressure. Make sure you don't over heat you starter if you do it that way.

deucestudios

Yeah I did most of that, didn't put the filter on yet so I can fill it before I do.
Starter is a used so thats a good point. I'll just have to fire it off when the time comes and be ready to kill it if I don't get pressure.

lsxRanger94

If you are going to crank it then, I'd leave the coils unplugged and remove injector fuse so you don't wash down the cylinder walls with fuel.

lsxRanger94

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l-priming.html

deucestudios

didn't break the upper shock bolts.



didn't get fancy, just needed it rotated 90° so it'd clear the tank



fuel lines are in, coiled at the tank area, waiting on the fuel cell mount.

dash is in, key on hot powers it up via the new fuse block. key all the way bumps the starter.

Short list:
spark plug wires
oil & filter
switch out oil pressure sender
gas tank mount

deucestudios

This is the 2nd fire, after realizing the first go round I had accidentally unplugged an injector.
Crank your volume to 11.


at 0:36 I cover the vaccuum leak I know of, but I think there's another. Anybody venture a guess where? I'm up for ideas.

To make it driveable:
finish the clutch hydraulics
cut down another XJ front shaft for the rear
fan shroud, change out the waterneck, coolant
belt
wire up the JY fan I got
couple other little things to double check, fuel line & wire mounts & shields
then off to Red Run

lsxRanger94

Check tb vent tube, if you didn't remove it and plug it, injector o rings, purge vent solenoid, map sensor, brake booster nipple, intake gaskets, or crack in manifold if removed from wrecked truck. I'd also check fuel pressure.

deucestudios

Thermostat problem.
I need to use the straight waterneck to clear the frame.
The '99 Camaro stat fits in that housing, but its too deep to fit into my waterpump, you can feel it bottom out, and the spring compresses slightly to get the waterneck seated fully. Any thoughts on another stat I might be able to use?

deucestudios

Forgot I had this thread over here. Thanks to all who've posted info, both in this thread and on the rest of the board.

4WD Lo, 1st gear:

2WD Hi, 2nd & 3rd gear:

ws6turbo

I've always wanted to do this swap, I got a 04 wrangler sport but it's only got 17k miles so it's kept 100% stock. Works good for driving through the mountains,

I'm sure you figured your t stat problem out but anyway you can get a 88 pickup truck. T stat, same dimension around, same seal, and only like 2" deep at most,