I've been trying to start the car today and it will start right up run for 2-5 seconds then shut off. I have hptuners and know that VATS has been turned off. It's throwing no codes at all. Only weird thing is, is I can't get tps to show on virtual gauges. I tried plugging in a spare I have and still doesn't show on the virtual gauge. I'll try putting on a brand new sensor tomorrow. I have lots of grounds and have a steady hot while starting. The engine will rev in those first few seconds before it shuts off. I read where another person on here had to put his system to column shift to get his to start. I'm going to try that tomorrow as well. I've tried adjusting the idle adjustment bolt, but I don't think that has a thing to do with the problem I'm having.
Note that this is the first start so I'm trying to get the gremlins out lol.
There is no miss in the engine.
The map is reading 105 while the engine is off, I haven't seen it change while starting. I would think that since there isn't vacuum on the engine that that is what it should be reading. Would I be able to see the map change while rolling the engine over? ECT reads about 8 degrees, but it is damned cold out, IAT is reading around 15 degrees.
I show KR right when the engine shuts off but I believe its due to the ecm shutting off the fuel and the car back-firing. Injectors are moving from 4 to 27 and o2's seem to be alright.
The only things that seem off to me are the MAP and TPS. The map came from DYI and from what I can tell they are usually pretty good. TPS came with the throttle body and intake I bought used.

Engine has plenty of grounds and constant power to the ecm while cranking.
fuel is supplied via a1000 to 8an lines to fuel rail to regulator then 6an back to tank. Fuel is constant 58-60 psi
All tuning has been done by me. I have read and studied for countless hours. Still learning. Here is my tune.
Maybe one of you will see something on there that I missed.

 

You typed a whole loit of info, but no info on what engine you're working on... Sounds like VATS though, or another part of it.

 

Sorry 6.0 lq4
224 228 115 lsa
-14 pistons
eagle rods
factory bore, just honed
factory stroke
factory crank
twin 61mm turbos
psi harness
4l80 transmission
3000 stall

just reworked all vac lines
Vats is definately tuned out. Quadrupled checked. Checking tune now. Going to check ecm ground in the morning and change tps and check for frayed wires

 

Does the car have a MAF? If not is it tuned out correctly? Also is the tune setup for Speed Density? If so if its set up as a 2 bar SD and you have a 1 bar map plugged in it will start and shut right off. I ran into this issue, had lots of people tell me to shut off VATS (It Was), my problem was the ecm was tuned for a 2 bar SD setup and I had a stock 1 bar map hooked up, swapped in a friends 2 bar map and problem solved, fired right up.

 

try this , have a buddy shoot start fluid in it at the time it starts to shut down , if it runs with start fluid and yoou on the pedal , its most likey vats , vats shuts of the injectors , another way is with a pulse indicator , it will shut down after 2 3 seconds for the same reason vats , it can be a real pain , and sometimes there is more to it than just one setting , if that is it start a new thread with vats in the header and people with more experiance than myself will chime in , mine did the same thing when first installed and it was a vats issue , even though my tuner assured me 3 times that it was turned off

got a new tunner [curent thats is] and have been smilling ever since

 

Turned out to be a bad MAP, but let the motor run and never built oil pressure. Pulling the pan and changing out o-ring on the pick up tube tonight. We let it run for about 20 seconds, no pressure. I have a mechanical gauge where the factory sending unit was. Now I have a filter relocation kit that also goes to a oil cooler with around 10-of .5 hose.
So I pulled the output hose from the filter relocation, cranked on the motor and no oil squirted out.

Thanks for all your help. We ended up changing the tune to a one bar and connecting a one bar map and it started right up and idled. The map was messing up the tps signal.. can't tell you guys how but while the bad map was on, there was no signal from tps. I used and ohm meter to check the tps. I'm thinking that instead of sending me a 3 bar map they may have sent me a 2bar, but I don't know if a wrong map will set 105kpa as the starting point.

I'm really hoping that the o-ring is pinched or has a cut because I can't remember if the machine shop installed the oil barbells. If they didn't I have to pull the hole engine..
I'm hoping that I can check the oil pump cover to see if they were installed.

 

My brother and I are tuning VIA HPtuners. We knew vats was disabled, we even went and cleared all dtc's again thinking that maybe something small was doing it. Once it started, it idled great.

 

You were dead on buddy, MAP the whole time.. thanks.. Although I didn't read this until after we figured that out hahhahahaha. Sure would have saved me some time. Live and learn!!

 

Well pulled the oil pan and removed the oil pick up tube, the o-ring had a flat spot with a small cut so now I'm waiting on the O-Reily's to have a ring delivered. I'm hoping that is the only issue I'll have.

 

Good work finding all those problems.

 

Does anyone know a way that I can check to see if the Oil Restrictor/barbell was installed without pulling the transmission to look?

 

Can you shine a light into the hole where the oil sending unit is and see whether the barbell is fitted or not?

 

To all who may wonder if there builder or machine shop removed the barbell and may have not replaced it; remove the rear oil galley plug just above your oil filter. Up inside maybe 2"-3" you will see a narrow tube/cylinder; that is the stem from the barbell. If you do not see it, you do not have one.
Mine was in, I'm so happy lol.. I dont have to remove my transmission. Now just waiting on that pesky lil o-ring to get here..

 

Found the problem, Pulled everything off the front of the motor and bam.. no oil expansion plug/freeze plug. I'm so pissed at the machine shop that worked my block. They charged me for the installation.
What's worse is the fact I was certain it was installed. But it wasn't in the oil pan. Even my cousin who has helped me with this project thought it was in. I have a new one ordered from summit and also have a new barbell just in case.

I just hope I haven't hurt the bearings, I only ran it for 45 seconds and a couple of 15 seconds and 5 seconds starts. Before the 45 second start I pumped oil into the engine from the oil sending unit, and while it ran I had no lifter tap. That leads me to believe that there was sufficient oil pumped through the engine.
I also pumped the engine a couple more times on the short starts.

I have the oil pan off so I plan to take a couple caps off to look at the bearings. We will see.