LM7 build cost
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: Tx
LM7 build cost Looking what would be the most reliable inforced induction either one single turbo and pushing from 15 lbs to 25 lbs of boost or NOS. What engine beef up would i have to do as far as internal like cam shaft, pistons,rods,crankshaft, i am also looking into buying a complete stroker kit for the 5.3 Lm7 but what would i be looking for price wise to build the motor, buying the stroker kit(Rods,pistons,crankshaft,cam shaft), and the turbo kit.
Or would it be cheaper to run nos around 250 shot of NOS and what engine upgrades are recommended. and about how much should i expect to spend?
Thanks in advance.
Or would it be cheaper to run nos around 250 shot of NOS and what engine upgrades are recommended. and about how much should i expect to spend?
Thanks in advance.
I really liked this article, run it hard, who cares if it blows up, just buy another used.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...lock_for_3252/
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...lock_for_3252/
I really liked this article, run it hard, who cares if it blows up, just buy another used.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...lock_for_3252/
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...lock_for_3252/
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 70
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis
I'm sort of in this boat now. It's quite simple, if you crack it open, just spend every penny you can on it as it pays off down the line. If your fine with sticking in a 150k 5.3 everytime, that's fine, but if you, for any reason want to pull it apart, you're going to start opening up the wallet. The problem I had was that the 5.3 gave up some low end torque that my old Vortec 5.7 had, so I bought an LM7 for $200 with the intent on pulling it apart to do ARP head bolts, and boost it. I started doing some digging and found a machine shop that did a LS1 bore on my 5.3, found a member on here with a drop-in ready LS1 crank, and now I'm just finding 2 remaining LS1 rods and pistons, and I'll have a Iron block LS1. One thing to note is that on an actual LS1, which is aluminum, the deck height is 9.230, where as the Iron is 9.240, so I will have some extra room for my heads, as they are the original 862's that will be clean up a bit. I think all said and done, I will be mid 10's for CR, and will be using all GM issued parts for less than I could've bought a 6.0. I also give these numbers being that they are not new, nor are they forged, coated, and that doesn't even get into the rebuild cost, things like piston rings, main/rod/cam bearings, re-sizing, and I haven't even touched heads or valvetrain.
With that being said, I could've just saved my pennies and started with a 6.0, as there's not replacement for displacement, it's just by the time I get $1,000 for a 6.0(most guys charge that around here), I can have a pretty stout, rebuilt 5.7(bored LM7 w/ LS1 rotating assembly), which really only give up 3 cubic inches from the old L31, but I get the joys of the LS motor and aftermarket supply.
With that being said, I could've just saved my pennies and started with a 6.0, as there's not replacement for displacement, it's just by the time I get $1,000 for a 6.0(most guys charge that around here), I can have a pretty stout, rebuilt 5.7(bored LM7 w/ LS1 rotating assembly), which really only give up 3 cubic inches from the old L31, but I get the joys of the LS motor and aftermarket supply.
Last edited by Envy; Dec 27, 2013 at 12:25 PM. Reason: Numbers
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 581
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
I'd run the stock stuff. You might throw some arp studs in it and call it a day. I've run those 20psi with no problems. But if you got money to spend I've had good luck with eagle rods and cranks on boosted apps . Just depends on how much you wanta spend .
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