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Motor to frame grounding strap?

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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 06:58 AM
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Default Motor to frame grounding strap?

Any suggestions on good ground straps for a 67' Chevelle with a LS swap?
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 07:52 AM
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You can make your own using 10 gauge wire and ring terminals. I would suggest the non-insulated ring terminals. It's hard to run too many grounds so don't be shy about using them.
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 08:39 AM
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1/0 wire works great for it.......
put welding lugs on the end of it...

I just heat them up with a butane torch, melt solder into them till they fill up..then jam the 1/0 cable down into it while its still liquid and hot.....
it will never come out of th eterminal, and will be a much better connection than a crimped ring terminal.
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 08:45 AM
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You can use the factory strap from a silverado. Looks factory and cheap.
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 03:44 PM
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All very good ideas thanks all!
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 04:08 PM
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I use these from the local auto parts stores.They are basic battery ground cables.

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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 04:36 PM
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"1/0 wire works great for it......."

That is what I did.
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueMaxCougar
I use these from the local auto parts stores.They are basic battery ground cables.

That's what I use aswell
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 05:24 PM
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I made my own with 4ga ground wire left over from an amp install. Just cut it to length and crimped on some ends. I welded the head of a bolt to the frame of the car (threads sticking up) on both sides of the frame. Then bolted one end of the wire to the block, and then the other end to the welded bolt, topped off with a nut. On both sides of the engine.
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
1/0 wire works great for it.......
put welding lugs on the end of it...

I just heat them up with a butane torch, melt solder into them till they fill up..then jam the 1/0 cable down into it while its still liquid and hot.....
it will never come out of th eterminal, and will be a much better connection than a crimped ring terminal.
I use 4ga cable, but do the same deal with filling them with solder and sliding the cable down into it. I put 2 layers of heat shrink on the ends to dress them up a bit. Here is one of the last ground straps I have made:
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 10:08 PM
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I used the braided copper straps made by Taylor. Nice and flexible. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-20308

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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by MX6.0
I used the braided copper straps made by Taylor. Nice and flexible. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-20308

I have used those and they work well.I have had a few fray over many years of hard daily driving.A vehicle that may not see many miles per year,they would last forever.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 10:39 AM
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I have used the braided straps also. I will probably cover them with heat shrink for my current build because they have collected grease/grime over the years. But I never had any grounding or charging issues.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 10:44 AM
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You can get them braided straps from Dorman or any brand from must parts stores.

As far as placement.. I use three of them on the engine. both side around the mounts to the frame and from the back of the heads to the firewall..

Battery has three also.. Frame, engine and body..

BC
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 12:34 PM
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I don't have any ground straps on my motor. Just the negative battery cable hooked to the block.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
I don't have any ground straps on my motor. Just the negative battery cable hooked to the block.
It don't get any more direct ground than that.What about the rest of the electrics?How does the voltage makes it's way back to the battery?The engine should be isolated by the rubber mounts,unless it's solid mounted.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
I don't have any ground straps on my motor. Just the negative battery cable hooked to the block.
Nothing wrong with just the one.. but in electrical.. nothing wrong with more either. I am just concern with all of the other related circuits (lights, radio, Fuel relay/pump, etc) that requires good grounding to the battery.

As long as most of the electircal is connected to a good ground on the block. .only one would be needed.

Also as BlueMax questions.. if the engine is well isolated via Rubber/Poly/etc.. it could cause issues..

But, Pop knows what he is doing. As he always has good info and shares with everyone..so.. either way works..

BC
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ss performance
You can make your own using 10 gauge wire and ring terminals.

I hope you meant 1/0 gauge.
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 03:35 PM
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So, If 10 guage is good, would 20 gauge wire be twice as good?

;-)
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by aknovaman
So, If 10 guage is good, would 20 gauge wire be twice as good?

;-)
Your going the wrong way is size!.. 10 guage most likely would be good for anything that didn't draw a lot of amp's.. ie. The Starter on cranking..!

BC
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