running wiring through the firewall ideas
running wiring through the firewall ideas I was just looking for more ideas on how to hide the wiring and ecu on my 67 chevelle. I was just thinking of putting a hole through the firewall to run the ecu connectors but it would take a pretty large hole to do that. Any other ideas on how to clean up some of the wiring and hiding the ecu? I left the wiring all the stock length when I build the car a few years ago. It is a truck engine with a 4l80e and dbw throttle.
I have a similar issue with my jaguar swap. There is a large hole 6x8 inches in the firewall that used to have ecu and relay box bolted onto it. I am going to move the relays back into the car interior and bolt a flat aluminum plate over the hole. For a grommet, I am looking at the ones used on cars to run wires between the door and chassis and on the rear door of a suburban. They are clean, simple and cheap.
Here is another affordable option.
http://www.sealsit.com/grommet_split.asp
Here is another affordable option.
http://www.sealsit.com/grommet_split.asp
Last edited by aknovaman; Jan 5, 2014 at 09:44 PM.
you can squeeze the pcm connectors one at a time through about a 1.5" hole.
Take a hole saw and drill few different sized holes through some wood and test it out to see.
Then use the grommets aknovaman posted in the link.
Take a hole saw and drill few different sized holes through some wood and test it out to see.
Then use the grommets aknovaman posted in the link.
Depin the connectors and route them one wire at a time so you only need a hole big enough of the wire bundle. Don't try passing the connector end through a hole.
Another option is an Amphenol type connector. Used on military grade stuff. Completely waterproof and completely seals the interior from the exterior. Would allow pulling an engine with the wiring in tact.
http://www.mouser.com/Amphenol/
Another option is an Amphenol type connector. Used on military grade stuff. Completely waterproof and completely seals the interior from the exterior. Would allow pulling an engine with the wiring in tact.
http://www.mouser.com/Amphenol/
Do you have any part #s? Also I assume you splice the wires and make sure each side is the same, correct?
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Amp connectors are expensive relative to other options. Plus they need a special crump tool to on 80 male or so wires and another 80 on the female side. More work than its worth cause I am lazy and cheap.
Plus it's 3 more potential spots in each wire (2 crimps and a pin set) for corrosion which leads to increased resistance which leads to skewed ohm readings and lost voltage. I did the Seals-it grommet and will always use that from now on...
Amp connectors are watertight. The military uses them everywhere. I calibrate jet engine dyno's that are outside in jungle environment and they do just fine for years. Then bad part is the human factor of a guy assembling the connectors for the first time and screwing up the seals to ruining the pins.
But I am cheap so I will go with OEM or seals it.
But I am cheap so I will go with OEM or seals it.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Harrison Twp. MI
I like to run my harnesses through the trans tunnel just behind the fire wall. Saves length on the harness, clean engine bay, the large hole can be plated/sealed up and concealed by carpet then you can run the comp under the seat or dash.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
From: Visalia,CA
Awesome info, I have been scratching my head for awhile on the best way to run all the pcm wires into the car, thought about a bulkhead connector similar to the amp connectors, but the added contact points and complexity worries me, thx for the info and links 
Depin the connectors and route them one wire at a time so you only need a hole big enough of the wire bundle. Don't try passing the connector end through a hole.
Another option is an Amphenol type connector. Used on military grade stuff. Completely waterproof and completely seals the interior from the exterior. Would allow pulling an engine with the wiring in tact.
http://www.mouser.com/Amphenol/
Another option is an Amphenol type connector. Used on military grade stuff. Completely waterproof and completely seals the interior from the exterior. Would allow pulling an engine with the wiring in tact.
http://www.mouser.com/Amphenol/
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 346
Likes: 7
From: Tampa, FL
On my 67 skylark I was able to open up the hole where the heater blower wire came through to an 1 1/4". start with the harness in the car and feed it out into the engine bay. There is not much room to mount the ECU and TCM and the fuse box without giving up your entire glovebox. I wish I had left the ECM and TCM in the engine bay and may have no choice but to move into the engine bay in order to fit AC system.