Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Help me finish planning my LS1 swap into 1954 Chevy car

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Old 02-26-2014, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by lsxRanger94
Check this link out.

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...ing_shaft.html

Yours look like it might be the second to last on pic 19.
Thanks for sending me this link. I know that i had saw the article in an issue but i was never able to find it searching the R&C mag website.

Your idea to run the "D" shaft from the rack up to a heim joint first is not a bad idea. BUT, i don't see this shown in the R&C post. I am definitely going to try it though.
Old 02-26-2014, 01:52 PM
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You could always use the old coat hanger mock up method to see what your angles are, or use a piece of brake line. That way you have your working angles to see which joints that you need. From the pics, don't forget to mount your column up before measuring. If you have not already bought all of your steering shaft, you may consider a telescoping piece in the long part of the shaft. Otherwise you will have to drop the column or the rack to remove and install your steering shaft.

Last edited by lsxRanger94; 02-26-2014 at 02:02 PM.
Old 02-27-2014, 09:29 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by lsxRanger94
You could always use the old coat hanger mock up method to see what your angles are, or use a piece of brake line. That way you have your working angles to see which joints that you need. From the pics, don't forget to mount your column up before measuring. If you have not already bought all of your steering shaft, you may consider a telescoping piece in the long part of the shaft. Otherwise you will have to drop the column or the rack to remove and install your steering shaft.
So I test fit without the U Joint at the rack. The Double D shaft which makes up the column still hits the header and the frame. I think I am going to do some trimming this Saturday and see how things work from there. Worst case, I weld in the new filler pieces and repaint the front clip, I lose a day of time.

I actually swapped the two sanderson headers from side to side to see if that worked any better. This gives me clearance for the factory Starter but seems to hit the D shaft a little more.

Are there any companies that make a shorter starter?
Old 02-28-2014, 07:12 AM
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http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...7_Engines.aspx

Just says its downsize housing and clockable. Maybe someone on here has used one.
Old 02-28-2014, 07:23 AM
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Did you mock up with a coat hanger/ piece of brake line? If so, can you use two double ujoints with heim support instead of singles to get around your headers? doubles have twice the working angle, about 70 degrees.
Old 03-13-2014, 11:13 AM
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Default Starter sourcing

The factory Starter is burned so I need a replacement. While i am sourcing this I want to buy something smaller to help me avoid future exhaust fitment issues.

I don't want to use the word mini starter because i am not sure what Mini refers to: Diameter or length. I was doing some searching for a mini starter and found that the Monte Carlo guys seem to use a GM factory starter due to it's small size. They referenced C1500 trucks and some other vehicles as using a small starter.

Can you guys help me find a starter for $150 or so that is shorter in length?
Old 03-13-2014, 01:11 PM
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The starter for my 2005 5.3 4x4 is very small. I picked it up a the junkyard for the price of a core and it tested good. Had to put some paint on it to look nice, but originally got it to mock up for the exhaust in my Ranger. here is a pic of a new starter.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1920&ppt=C0330
Old 03-14-2014, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by lsxRanger94
The starter for my 2005 5.3 4x4 is very small. I picked it up a the junkyard for the price of a core and it tested good. Had to put some paint on it to look nice, but originally got it to mock up for the exhaust in my Ranger. here is a pic of a new starter.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1920&ppt=C0330
Thanks again. I will measure the factory start that i have and see if this one is any shorter and will help relieve my problem.
Will this starter also work for the 5.7L? i see that it says it is for the 5.3L
Old 03-15-2014, 09:32 AM
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Both engines use the same flex plate 168 teeth and have the same part number. So it should work. The truck starter is smaller and has 9 teeth instead of 11 like the Camaro. Therefore is higher torque.
Old 03-21-2014, 05:53 PM
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The starter on my engine right now is from a Camaro SS. This starter is 7.5inches long from the mounting flange where it enters the bellhousing to the back of the Starter.

The starter you provide me a link to shows the length to be 8.3inches long. Not sure if that means overall length or not. this means the Start might end up being the same length that i currently have.
I'm going into an auto parts store to compare sizes this weekend. I want to end this and run a compression test on the engine and prepare to fire it up.

Last edited by WCRiot; 04-02-2014 at 10:45 AM.
Old 03-21-2014, 07:18 PM
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6 5/8 from mounting 8 7/16 total
Old 04-02-2014, 10:44 AM
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First purchased all the stock bracketry, later to find out that the Alternator hits the frame. So i sold that and bought the LSBrackets.com for the Camaro engine and Camaro accessories

<iframe src="https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=D05FFEC98B4776D0&resid=D05FFEC98B4776D0% 211594&authkey=AJUCAiuCdjIajXs" width="240" height="320" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"></iframe>
Old 04-02-2014, 10:53 AM
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Factory brackets wouldn't work so i purchase the Camaro Bracket from LSBrackets.com

I have a question for you guys running this setup: What remote reservoir are you running and how did you plumb it in? Because of the way this bracket orientates the pump i am worried there might not be good fluid flow to the pump.
Attached Thumbnails Help me finish planning my LS1 swap into 1954 Chevy car-20140402_033736727_ios.jpg   Help me finish planning my LS1 swap into 1954 Chevy car-20140402_033744883_ios.jpg  
Old 04-02-2014, 11:23 AM
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Its says you can't use gto/corvette reservoir. So it looks like a 98-02 fbody.

This bracket is available for the Corvette,Camaro and Truck/SUV Accessory drive
Default ship will be for the Camaro accessory drive unless specified in the order.

This is LS Brackets New State of the art multi accessory drive power steering mount bracket

This bracket is CNC cut from 6061 3/8 billet aluminum.

It is designed to work with the Factory Camaro power steering pump and Alternator

This is the most user friendly alternator, power steering relocate bracket on the market today.

This Bracket moves the factory alternator up high and the factory power steering pump down low on your LS power plant upgrade. It gives frame clearance in older vehicles where the factory
Alternator hits the frame and steering box.
Alternator is positioned 1” below the ls1 intake
The power steering pump is 4 ¾ inch above the crank center line.
Giving you more than enough room for your steering box.

Another great ls brackets feature is you don't have to run a remote reservoir like other bracket kit on the market.

If you need to run a remote reservoir you can if you want.

Everything can be purchased from your local parts store.

Designed to work with the Camaro/Truck/SUV LS 105 amp alternator
New Idler pulley included in this kit.

Comes complete with 6061 billet aluminum spacers, 3/8 billet plates, GM spec. zinc coated bolts and instructions.

Not Compatible with the GTO/Corvette Power steering pump or alternator

Attached Thumbnails Help me finish planning my LS1 swap into 1954 Chevy car-s10.jpg  

Last edited by lsxRanger94; 04-02-2014 at 11:31 AM.
Old 04-03-2014, 11:33 AM
  #35  
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Funny you copy/paste this as i interpreted this information as being able to use the Fbody reservoir but apparently it's impossible to do so. the Reservoir hits the bracket.

So now i have to buy a different reservoir to remote mount it, a bracket to hold it and a $40 90degree fitting. I'm a little annoyed and frustrated but I'll get past all this.

I am trying to find an adapter that i can modify to make it work

LS Brackets has a parts list they provide you with for the remote reservoir and bracket.
Old 04-04-2014, 07:08 AM
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The ones I've seen look like the truck pump is used with the cap sitting inside the bracket( tilted in instead of tilted out). I'd give them a call and see what they recommend because you don't have the inner fenders on yet.
Old 04-04-2014, 07:15 AM
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Don't forget you may need a pressure reducer for your pump depending on compatibility with your rack.
Old 04-04-2014, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lsxRanger94
The ones I've seen look like the truck pump is used with the cap sitting inside the bracket( tilted in instead of tilted out). I'd give them a call and see what they recommend because you don't have the inner fenders on yet.
I called them. In their instruction manual they listed the corvette power steering reservoir and bracket as alternate parts.
I just order this stuff.
Now, LSBRackets suggest i buy a special 90degree fitting they machined to press fit into the pump as the return fitting. ITs a smart idea but $40 plus $10 shipping is alot for a fitting. I might try and figure something else out
Will update with this info.
Originally Posted by lsxRanger94
Don't forget you may need a pressure reducer for your pump depending on compatibility with your rack.
Never thought of this. My No Limit front crossmember kit is called the Mustang II kit. I'm assuming they are using the Mustang Power rack, but I will look into this.

What is the pressure from the LS Power Steering pump?
Old 04-05-2014, 07:55 AM
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I know there is a thread on here about a mustang II and gm pumps having too high of pressure and making the steering twitchy. Here is a thread on Saginaw to ford rack pressures.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ck-pinion.html

Your pump may be different pressure, but the rack operates between 700-1000psi. 1000psi being most common.

Last edited by lsxRanger94; 04-05-2014 at 08:13 AM.
Old 04-07-2014, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by lsxRanger94
I know there is a thread on here about a mustang II and gm pumps having too high of pressure and making the steering twitchy. Here is a thread on Saginaw to ford rack pressures.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ck-pinion.html

Your pump may be different pressure, but the rack operates between 700-1000psi. 1000psi being most common.
This thread doesn't show how to reduce the pressure when needed. I will look into this more to be certain.

I CRANKED THE MOTOR UP yesterday. So it seems all my wiring is correct.
It seems like it cranks a little slow with that truck starter on there.

Gonna finish mounting the engine and transmission to set the correct angle, then fill with new oil and perform a compression and leak down test.

Where is the correct location to measure the angle of the engine/transmission?


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