GM also says that about the 5.7 LS1 engines and the aluminum 5.3's but I've seen it done. Having said that I don't personally know what it takes fiscally or physically, but it CAN be done. I've seen sleeved blocks from ERL (and I assume others) but that is BIG, big $$$$ (like all out racing money) and might be the only route which would explain why they exist in the first place.

I'm not trying to rain on the old parade but why not just leave the engine stock or run a small cam and headers it if it's going to be a family cruiser? You mentioned having the block at the machine shop, why? Was there something wrong with the engine?

Personally, I think a stock engine or a mildly cammed engine would make an excellent cruiser - especially with a family in mind. One of these stock is more power than anything offered in that chassis at the time (I know the ratings were different from then to now) and will be a huge upgrade in performance and drivability. I'm doing a bit more than stock on my next build, but I'm a single guy with a car crazy girl and we don't have kids so...

 

The cylinders needed to be cleaned up a bit and the piston the cylinder wall clearance is pretty tight on these engines. The original pistons were worn and I needed new pistons. I just ordered 4.070" Mahle pistons, which stock is 4.065", and that way I can fit the pistons and have a good piston the cylinder wall clearance. I also order the TSP stage 2 VVT cam package and ported oil pump. Should be a good start to my build...

 

I see, cool.

 

"I also order the TSP stage 2 VVT cam package and ported oil pump. Should be a good start to my build..."

Sounds good.

 

Well got my pistons, cam package, and ported oil pump from TSP. Have the pistons at the machine shop to get fitted at 4.070". I priced out new GM bearings and they were $450 for cam, rods and main bearings.... So I think I'll check out clevite bearings..

Going to order the dirty dingo mounts and the altanator bracket to run the LS6 intake .

 

Well its been awhile since I have posted... Haven't had a lot of time to work on the LS swap this summer. Just been driving and enjoying the BelAir.. I got pretty much all of the parts for the engine. Yesterday I unwrapped the engine for the first time since I got it back from the machine shop and I didn't like what I saw... there is a mark in the block in between 2 cylinders.. What do you guys think of this???

 

I think I am doing the slowest build ever.. I Got the block all cleaned up and had the mark on the deck cleaned up. The crank is in with ARP studs and clevite bearing. I am now just grinding the new piston rings to set the gap, what a slow process!! The top rings are all done.

 

Slow project just means you have a longer time being entertained working on the project

 

"Entertained?" So that is what it's called. All this time I thought the word was frustrated because I wanted to drive the car.

 

Well the car is still driveable at this point.. I will hopefully have the engine built and really for the swap next winter.

I got all the ring gaps set and then put the rings on the pistons. Went to put the pistons on the rods and the wrist pins are too big. The factory pins are 0.944 and the Malhe pins are 0.946. Emailed Malhe and he said I will have to get the rods honed out a bit .. I was on a roll and now gotta wait to get the rods back from the machine shop....

 

Ha! There's that too.

Like your avatar...

Sorry folks for the off topic...

 

So I dropped off the rods to get honed out for the new wrist pins. He noticed that I have ARP bolts in one of the rods.. He said that if you use ARP main studs and rod bolts it distorts them and they should be checked and possibly have to be line bored and the rod honed out for the crank and oversized bearings will have to be used... Any truth to this??

 

nice build.what alternator bracket did you go with or is it a complete front drive system?