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question for those running the speedway alternator bracket

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Old May 18, 2014 | 08:55 PM
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Default question for those running the speedway alternator bracket

I have the speedway setup for an F-body alternator on my Fairmont, ive noticed after racing at the track the last time that the belt jumped on the tensioner (see pic below) - last night I was messing around on the highway on the way home from a local cruise night and raced from a 45mph-ish roll, got home and found the same thing - belt had jumped. friend of mine has also had this happen with their bracket (he has a truck alternator setup)

has anyone come across this? if so what did you do to fix it?

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Old May 19, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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One or more of the pulleys are out of alignment, easy to fix by checking and shimming. Got a pic of the other side with the bracket?
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Old May 19, 2014 | 07:20 PM
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I already checked nothing is out of alignment, ill post a pic of the other side later
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Old May 19, 2014 | 08:29 PM
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Is the pulley on straight? Is it on tight? Something is pulling it to the front.

Edit: Look to see if you cam get a wider pulley to put on there? Or maybe one with a higher side rib just to see if that works.
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Old May 19, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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I think what's happening is at WOT the belt is moving alot on the section from the bottom of the balancer to the alternator (its a pretty long run with no idler) causing the tensioner to bounce excessively (I could be totally wrong lol)
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Old May 19, 2014 | 08:49 PM
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heres a pic of the bracket

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Old May 19, 2014 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyD
I use that bracket, and I've spit a belt a couple times. It's usually when the motors sees rev-limiter. I just carry a spare belt and a wrench with me in case.

As a note, other people have troubles with stock set ups, and there are upgraded tensioner set ups available people have luck with.

Love the car by the way!
yes that will be my temporary solution as well, and thanks!
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Old May 20, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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Come to think of it, I had to move up to a solid tensioner after adding a S&P low-mount A/C (which runs on the main sheave). The belt wouldn't jump grooves, but would jump up and down to the point of coming off when the air was switched on. The factory spring just wasn't strong enough to hold the longer belt. Also remove the belt and check all your pulleys for axial play, that can be a factor too...
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Old May 21, 2014 | 08:12 PM
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no play in anything, tensioner is new. im thinking of putting an idler under the alternator - that section of belt is pretty long so im wondering of there is deflection there causing the tensioner to move excessively. ill post up what I use and how it works
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Old May 21, 2014 | 09:41 PM
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could you swap the tensioner pullie to one with a nice big shoulder?
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Old May 23, 2014 | 01:20 PM
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I use the same set up with the exception of a manual belt tensioner. I never ran it with a spring loaded tensioner but I did notice the belt does jump around quite a bit when you get off the throttle. I cranked down the tensioner to limit it's movement.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 01:55 PM
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what manual tensioner did you use?
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Old May 23, 2014 | 02:56 PM
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We sell a nice billet manual tensioner if anyone needs one!
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Old May 23, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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I am running that same setup and only issue I have is that the engine bogs when I try to do the same rolling start.... belt doesn't jump but shifting it under high revs kills the engine....
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Old May 25, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lt4malibu
what manual tensioner did you use?
Don't recall the brand a seller on ebay had them for about $100.
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Old Jul 17, 2014 | 08:03 PM
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to update, I purchased a manual tensioner off ebay 2 months ago and so far all is good been driving it all over and made multiple passes last Friday and the belt stayed on
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