Streetracer09

iTrader: (1)

My car is a standard '87 GN. I really don't know what accessory drive I am going to use yet. That's something else i'm kind of flustered about. It's a 4.8 with a truck balancer.

I bought a new GM F-body water pump. My current thoughts are to do a corvette accessory drive which will be about $700-800 after changing tha balancer over. I'd like to have a simpler option and of course cheaper would be nice. I haven't looked into the Hooker option yet.

It would be real cool if you can make a turn key G-body turbo kit or even a hot side to work with stock truck manifolds. There a few companies making kits for F-bodys and fox bodies but no one offers a G-body Turbo kit. It would prompt more G-body swaps for sure. Mine will be a single 75/75


Here's my engine compartment and project the way it sits. The turbo is the new one vs: the old 66mm V6 Turbo

user 4737373

That's a real nice car you have in your hands. You fortunately have the quick ratio 700 series box already, so you have more accessory drive clearance to work with than the guys with the 605 box. The Hooker mounting components will give you the option of running the truck, F-body, GTO, Corvette or Holley (configured at the Corvette spacing only) accessory drives, so maybe one of those will work for your needs. Good luck on that build, I'll be keeping an eye out for the finished project results here on ls1tech.

Streetracer09

iTrader: (1)

Question.


1. Does the 12643 Part number have the Lower Frame mounts and actual motor mounts? How about hardware? I don't have any of the factory mounts or hardware on my motor. Or does this assume using Factory style motor mounts.

Streetracer09

iTrader: (1)

Never mind. Scratch that last question. I went back and started the thread over. It's been a while. I see that you will use a factory style bottom mount and the new mounts bolt to the motor. Does the bottom half get relocated into different holes? I'm still reading the thread over too I just wanted to correct that last question I asked.

Do you know the part number for the Lower mounts that you used? Probably a good time to change them.

motox720

I read the directions ..and still struggling with the directions of 2 brackets just to attach to the car and im a prototype engineering technician ..lol, So just to clarify your statement the components install same configuration ( same order) as the cad drawing at the top of the page.. Maybe it will come clear when when I get the z bracket in my hand ..but a picture of the crossmember just bolted together in your intended configuration laying on the floor would be most helpful .. Does the frame extender still remain in the middle of the crossmember and the z bracket if your your drilling holes in the bottom of the frame..Just the instruction are not real complete for the 78-82 cars ..Sorry if being a PIA but many people will struggle in this area ..As engineers we must step back and take a look at it as if we werent the ones who made it

user 4737373

You're actually more astute then you give yourself credit for; the installation is exactly as you describe it to be. Here's a photo of a pre-production crossmember configured as it would need to be for installation in a car without the factory 2004R frame extension. If you were going to install the crossmember into a car with the frame extension, then picture this assembly without the Z bracket attached to the bottom of the left foot and that's what the assembly would look like for that application. The angle bracket is used in both cases to tie the crossmember into the forward mounting point of the frame as the stock frame extension is very thin gage metal and was not designed to support the extra load that a 4L80 trans, or aggressive driving will impose on it. The factory frame extensions are typically also severely bent, damaged or haphazardly installed from the factory, so we wanted an assembly that would install easily even in those such cases.

user 4737373

The stock rubber clamshell mounts are the common 2292 type that all your local auto parts stores will carry for $10-15 a set. If you want to run poly mounts like we did in our Monte Carlo SS project build, then you need to source them from a Prothane (Part number 7-506) or Energy Suspension (part number 3-1130) reseller. The Hooker bracket kit contains the fasteners to attach the brackets to the engine only, the long through bolt that binds the mounts to the brackets and the bolts used to attach the mounts to the frame are to be re-used from your stock set-up, or purchased at your local parts store. The long bolts (Dorman part number 81101) and all the other above mentioned parts can be single sourced from either Summit Racing or Jeg's.

jimmyg

For the long bolts I used 7/16x5in grade 8 bolts, nuts, lock washers then u need 6 3/8x1in bolts,nuts,lock washers grade 8 for the mounts the anchor 2292 mounts are 5$ at summit
Urethane inserts were 25$ each

user 4737373

Thanks for supplying independent information from your experience with the Hooker/Holley components jimmyg. The timing of your project couldn't have been better to allow people to follow along as you put your car together and see what you go through to get it done and on the road.

motox720

You sir are awesome!!! Thats exactly as I had pictured !! Hope to have the setup locked down this weekend and I will get some pictures

samckitt

iTrader: (5)

Sorry I am back on this. I have the same AC parts on order. Wondering where you located the charging ports. I am adding the pressure switch for the ECM to control cooling fan(s), where would it be mounted?
Thanks.

user 4737373

I can see the low pressure fitting on the accumulator in the picture, but I can't tell where the high side gauge port is...I will have a look in the morning and report back to you.

Streetracer09

iTrader: (1)

Well, It's a wrap.

I just ordered the clamshells, Poly Mounts, HKR LS Motor Mounts, HKR Crossmember and 4L80 Extension.

Thanks for the push. If all goes well I hope to be on here passing on everything you guys helped me get straightened out.

user 4737373

Glad to have you on board. If you need help with any of the parts just post up here or shoot me a PM.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Sure, I was impressed when I first saw the shopping list "a week ago". But clearly you are too lazy to read the whole thread to find the information yourself, and that you needed a solution (or "kit") spoon fed to you; all the while being a confrontational jerk about the products offered here - seriously, go back and re-read you posts from an objective point of view they are highly inflammatory. Toddoky is clearly a stand up guy, and represents Holley very well to deal with your nonsense with such a level head and professionalism.

Streetracer09

iTrader: (1)

Where was I being confrontational? I'm a guy with $500 to spend on a swap set up. This one had me chasing part numbers and the other one did not. I raised that issue and Todd and other members clearly got me all fixed up.
I didn't pull the trigger on the BRP kit for months because I was following this thread and I wanted to give HKR the business. I made that clear in my very first post about it. Was that confrontational that I wanted to give him the business?

I didn't catch the last few pages. Clearly you did and again, were also happy to see the pictures and numbers listed in one place. That was Last week. Gimmie a break.

user 4737373

Since I've performed the installation of the Hooker G-body swap parts a few times, I'd like to save those of you retaining the stock A/C evaporator case considerable aggravation by highly recommending that you take the time to separately your engine and transmission before installing them individually in the car.

This is mentioned in the Hooker G-body swap data sheet I compiled and it's worth mentioning here as it will keep you from poking a hole into the evaporator case with the right side valve cover. With the engine and transmission separated, you don't have to angle the engine down in the back much at all to install it in the car and leaves the transmission to be installed afterwards from under the car.

I personally stabbed a whole through a perfectly good evaporator case in our Monte and had to replace it, so I know how easy it is to damage one.

motox720

Just as a side note I seen the potential for this to occur and a quick solution was at hand ..with motor 3/4 the way in I placed the floor jack under the car (wheels facing front to rear) and jacked the transmission up till engine was even.. Pushed back till the pan dropped over the engine mount crossmember and in dropped it down pushed back and dropped right over mounts ... I have since pulled it 2 times and worked perfectly each time.. The only thing that hit was the rear coil screw as the engine mounts where originally installed to far back..

samckitt

iTrader: (5)

Is this system filled with 134a or R12?
thanks

user 4737373

It's an R134 system. The high-side gauge fitting is located just before the condenser next to the radiator. The capped fitting you see on the accumulator will be used for the low-side charge port once we install the R134 adapter fitting. We've not charged the system yet and probably won't until Spring arrives.