Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old 03-18-2015, 09:01 PM
  #481  
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Originally Posted by onebadbowtie86
The headers clear everything well, I just dont understand why they hang so low. Also where the collectors slip over the 4 primary tubes, they leak. I would like to buy a set of the hookers and try them with the 1" setbacks, but if they wouldnt work I would get the hooker mounts.
Your collectors are sloping towards the ground, so it's possible the crossmember they used during the prototyping of the headers was different than what you are using. The leaks you mention are exactly why I don't like slip-connectors to be used on any application that will be fuel injected; your O2 sensors hate them even more than I do.
Old 03-18-2015, 09:04 PM
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They dont leak very much, surprisingly but you can hear them if stick your head down there.

I dont understand why they tip down so much? my engine/tranny tips down at 3*
Old 03-18-2015, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by onebadbowtie86
They dont leak very much, surprisingly but you can hear them if stick your head down there.

I dont understand why they tip down so much? my engine/tranny tips down at 3*
It's hard to say what was behind the decision to not level them out to the frame more and tuck them higher. Since they weren't designed to be connected to any particular exhaust system they may not have put much thought into it actually.
Old 03-18-2015, 09:15 PM
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Well I'm glad your here and putting the work into great products for our cars.

Can one buy the hooker 3" x pipe , or do you have to buy the entire exhaust kit?
Old 03-18-2015, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by onebadbowtie86
Well I'm glad your here and putting the work into great products for our cars.

Can one buy the hooker 3" x pipe , or do you have to buy the entire exhaust kit?
The X-pipes are only available as part of the kit. You'd have to cut it up quite extensively to fit any non-Hooker brand headers, which is why it's not sold separately.
Old 03-18-2015, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
The X-pipes are only available as part of the kit. You'd have to cut it up quite extensively to fit any non-Hooker brand headers, which is why it's not sold separately.
I think it should be made available as a separate piece. Why? because I want to custom bend my system from the X pipe back. I think others would agree.
Old 03-19-2015, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by L92 OLDS
I think it should be made available as a separate piece. Why? because I want to custom bend my system from the X pipe back. I think others would agree.
We do sell the exact same X stamping that we use to build the kit as a stand alone item as well as U-bends and J-bends for such type work.
Old 03-19-2015, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by llorracs93s10
They are 304 stainless steel headers. As for the header /motor mounts swap that would move my transmission and overall drivetrain forward compared to what I have now correct? Only reason I asked that is a mounting position of the tranny crossmember and drive shaft length. and honestly at this point I probably will just stay with what I have since I have other pressing issues with the car but I eventually want my exhaust redone as you can see it hangs down too low so if that calls for headers that tuck up more then I like to do that as well.

And as for the dead center photo, do you mean a side profile shot or front of the car?
I can understand your desire to use what you've already purchased. I honestly believe that the amount of set-back used in your install and the height of your engine will prevent you from being able to successfully install the Hooker long tubes. I would like to see dead-center shots of your car taken from the side and front if possible...the more competitive data shown on this thread the better. Your headers being F-body pieces explains why the passenger side collector hangs down so much lower than the driver side header; there is a bulge in the F-body passenger side floor just above the collector.

Last edited by Toddoky; 03-19-2015 at 06:17 AM.
Old 03-19-2015, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
I can understand your desire to use what you've already purchased. I honestly believe that the amount of set-back used in your install and the height of your engine will prevent you from being able to successfully install the Hooker long tubes. I would like to see dead-center shots of your car taken from the side and front if possible...the more competitive data shown on this thread the better. Your headers being F-body pieces explains why the passenger side collector hangs down so much lower than the driver side header; there is a bulge in the F-body passenger side floor just above the collector.
Yea I was quite suprised thinking the F body's sat lower why they would (the driver side)hang a little lower. I know of the angle the collector cones out already (which didnt affect my car loads of room around the frame) but did seem odd.

I'm actually ok with the header if the company let's me know why they already have rust issues . If that can be resolved , my biggest concern is the down pipe I have off the collectors. I might just have to bit the bullet and get that center redone more inside the car (under DS ) to tuck up more.

I hate how low it hangs.
Old 03-19-2015, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by llorracs93s10
Yea I was quite suprised thinking the F body's sat lower why they would (the driver side)hang a little lower. I know of the angle the collector cones out already (which didnt affect my car loads of room around the frame) but did seem odd.

I'm actually ok with the header if the company let's me know why they already have rust issues . If that can be resolved , my biggest concern is the down pipe I have off the collectors. I might just have to bit the bullet and get that center redone more inside the car (under DS ) to tuck up more.

I hate how low it hangs.
What you've experienced is quite common and the reason we chose to go the complete system route when we began designing new LS swap parts a couple of years ago. If you use universal components or parts designed for another vehicle then you have no idea what the final geometry and fitment of your vehicle is going to be until you've bought and installed your very last part. If you're not satisfied with the result you have to spend more time and money to try and fix it. That same method also extends the duration of the project and the frustration level considerably.
Old 03-19-2015, 08:28 AM
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Toddoky,


I hate to bother you with this but I know you can help.

I put a power steering pump on and i'm trying to figure out what line to use to connect the pump to the steering box. I bought a conversion fitting that screws into the back of the power steering pump and converts to #6. I'm assuming you used the same stuff. Does someone make a pre made line that connects the dots?
Old 03-19-2015, 08:52 AM
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Toddoky,

Will your 1 7/8 headers work with 1" set back mounts?
Thanks,
Old 03-19-2015, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Streetracer09
Toddoky,


I hate to bother you with this but I know you can help.

I put a power steering pump on and i'm trying to figure out what line to use to connect the pump to the steering box. I bought a conversion fitting that screws into the back of the power steering pump and converts to #6. I'm assuming you used the same stuff. Does someone make a pre made line that connects the dots?
I'll check with the lab tech who completed the assembly of our Monte Carlo SS and see what he used.
Old 03-19-2015, 09:02 AM
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These 2 hoses in the picture are exactly what I need.
Old 03-19-2015, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Petey-Pop-383
Toddoky,

Will your 1 7/8 headers work with 1" set back mounts?
Thanks,
No they won't. The 1" set-back will cause interference with the lower control arm mounting brackets and the added engine height that comes with using swap plates will cause interference issues between the collectors and the floor.
Old 03-19-2015, 09:27 AM
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Ok thanks for the quick reply.
Old 03-19-2015, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
What you've experienced is quite common and the reason we chose to go the complete system route when we began designing new LS swap parts a couple of years ago. If you use universal components or parts designed for another vehicle then you have no idea what the final geometry and fitment of your vehicle is going to be until you've bought and installed your very last part. If you're not satisfied with the result you have to spend more time and money to try and fix it. That same method also extends the duration of the project and the frustration level considerably.
Here are the pictures you asked for. And with my exhaust, I think i could bring it up some if I just had it redone completely. We used just straight pipe off the collectors as a ''temp'' exhaust and that became my permanent exhaust when money well ran dry. So I think even though the headers hang down some, I could get the exhaust to get up more if I ran it more on the inside of the floor pan

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Old 03-19-2015, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Streetracer09
Toddoky,


I hate to bother you with this but I know you can help.

I put a power steering pump on and i'm trying to figure out what line to use to connect the pump to the steering box. I bought a conversion fitting that screws into the back of the power steering pump and converts to #6. I'm assuming you used the same stuff. Does someone make a pre made line that connects the dots?
Factory lines won't work? That's what I used . What front drive are you using?
Old 03-20-2015, 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Streetracer09




These 2 hoses in the picture are exactly what I need.
The power steering hoses and A/C hoses were made in-house here at Holley using Aeroquip fittings/hoses.
Old 03-20-2015, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmyg
Factory lines won't work? That's what I used . What front drive are you using?
X2. I know that with a truck PS pump you can use the factory hose for a G body Olds with a 307. Cheap at Napa and looks like a factory install.


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