New Hooker G-Body LS Swap System Preview
#764
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Agreed. The Holley guys did their homework and provide a good product for the G body guys.....In my opinion it's the best engineered system available hands down. My only complaints are: 1) The factory Z bar for the shifter to steering column interlock can't be used. The Lokar cable might be an option but that looks like a PITA to me 2) The oil pressure sender and or oil cooling lines are too close to the headers as noted above. I finally found a T fitting with the correct threads in England of all places. It allowed me to T the oil port behind the intake.
part # af 166-05-02BLK
#768
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
They will come to exist when that header application gets migrated over to the Hooker Blackheart line, which entails moving the production from our Mississippi facility to our Bowling Green, KY facility. We discussed these in a meeting this morning and I think it will take a month or two longer to see it happen as it's an operations issue.
#770
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
#771
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
New Holley low-mount A/C compressor bracket
I recently validated the fitment of the new Holley 4th-gen f-body style accessory drive set-up and low-mount Sanden A/C compressor bracket on a co-worker's G-body wagon and thought I'd let followers of this thread know they both fit great for anyone using the Hooker LS swap engine brackets on their G-body swap. The accessory drive can be installed only at the F-body and truck offsets; the A/C compressor bracket can be installed at those two offsets on this application, as well as the Corvette offset spacing on certain other applications.
#772
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
I recently validated the fitment of the new Holley 4th-gen f-body style accessory drive set-up and low-mount Sanden A/C compressor bracket on a co-worker's G-body wagon and thought I'd let followers of this thread know they both fit great for anyone using the Hooker LS swap engine brackets on their G-body swap. The accessory drive can be installed only at the F-body and truck offsets; the A/C compressor bracket can be installed at those two offsets on this application, as well as the Corvette offset spacing on certain other applications.
#773
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
I can't make an absolute judgement on the fitment of this new FEAD with the 600 series box at this time (didn't have one to test during this opportunity), but I'm going to assume that the same previous exclusion of the OE 4th-gen FEAD with the 600 box applies here as the position of the alternator on the Holley set-up is in exactly the same spot as the OE 4th-gen alternator.
#774
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
I can't make an absolute judgement on the fitment of this new FEAD with the 600 series box at this time (didn't have one to test during this opportunity), but I'm going to assume that the same previous exclusion of the OE 4th-gen FEAD with the 600 box applies here as the position of the alternator on the Holley set-up is in exactly the same spot as the OE 4th-gen alternator.
#775
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
I've never done any test fitting of 5th-gen F-body specific accessory drive components, but you would be correct in thinking that the interference with this new Holley FEAD would be worse on a G-body if installation was attempted at the truck offset instead of the F-body spacing.
#776
I scoured the thread and was looking for some feedback on the starter fitment with 1.875" headers. Driver's side fit beautifully and while the passenger side header fits very well also, I am noticing that starter clearance particularly in the area of the wiring harness and typical routing is not great. Has anyone else experienced this issue with a PSI conversion harness? It appears I am pinching the starter wiring against the block with one of the primary tubes so I will most likely have to go over the engine, down the front and under the engine mount along the pan to get to the starter.
Definitely not the end of the world, just wondering how folks routed their wiring in the area of the starter. I have a high torque mini starter for LS and one of the primary tubes lines right up with the wiring...appears to be less than an inch from the primary positive terminal.
Thoughts?
Dave
Definitely not the end of the world, just wondering how folks routed their wiring in the area of the starter. I have a high torque mini starter for LS and one of the primary tubes lines right up with the wiring...appears to be less than an inch from the primary positive terminal.
Thoughts?
Dave
#777
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
I scoured the thread and was looking for some feedback on the starter fitment with 1.875" headers. Driver's side fit beautifully and while the passenger side header fits very well also, I am noticing that starter clearance particularly in the area of the wiring harness and typical routing is not great. Has anyone else experienced this issue with a PSI conversion harness? It appears I am pinching the starter wiring against the block with one of the primary tubes so I will most likely have to go over the engine, down the front and under the engine mount along the pan to get to the starter.
Definitely not the end of the world, just wondering how folks routed their wiring in the area of the starter. I have a high torque mini starter for LS and one of the primary tubes lines right up with the wiring...appears to be less than an inch from the primary positive terminal.
Thoughts?
Dave
Definitely not the end of the world, just wondering how folks routed their wiring in the area of the starter. I have a high torque mini starter for LS and one of the primary tubes lines right up with the wiring...appears to be less than an inch from the primary positive terminal.
Thoughts?
Dave
#778
Hi Toddoky,
I am pretty sure it is clockable. Where it is getting pinched is between the block and header tube. Being able to clock it over, though, will definitely help with running it towards the front...should be able to buy myself at least another 1/2" or so then wrap it in DEI material.
I will check and report back. Will also post some pics of the current situation.
Best,
Dave
I am pretty sure it is clockable. Where it is getting pinched is between the block and header tube. Being able to clock it over, though, will definitely help with running it towards the front...should be able to buy myself at least another 1/2" or so then wrap it in DEI material.
I will check and report back. Will also post some pics of the current situation.
Best,
Dave
#779
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
I scoured the thread and was looking for some feedback on the starter fitment with 1.875" headers. Driver's side fit beautifully and while the passenger side header fits very well also, I am noticing that starter clearance particularly in the area of the wiring harness and typical routing is not great. Has anyone else experienced this issue with a PSI conversion harness? It appears I am pinching the starter wiring against the block with one of the primary tubes so I will most likely have to go over the engine, down the front and under the engine mount along the pan to get to the starter.
I just did the final install on our starter this past weekend. Also being a G-body this is sort of relevant. I ran the factory purple exciter wire along the fire wall below the drip tray/wipers and dropped it before the HVAC box, it then snakes along the trans dip stick tube and along the block between the starter solenoid and the block. The main power wire for the starter (this is a 4th Gen F-body battery/starter/alt harness) is run back along the frame and over the motor mount to the starter solenoid. I made a heat shield for the starter solenoid and wiring, and all of the wiring is loomed and tied back/down. I am using a factory 4th Gen starter.
I did not have any immediate interference issues installing the headers and loosely setting them in place; but I have yet torque them down. I can try to find some time to work on that tonight.
#780
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
The Holley MCSS happened to be on a lift in the engineering lab this morning so I took a look at the starter and the wiring at the solenoid. The lab tech who finished off the project routed all the wires through a section of silicone hose to protect them and the car has been driven without any issues for about 2 years now.