Well I finally have the chance to start the swap I’ve been waiting for, for a long time. I have been lurking on this site for a few years now and it has been a tremendous help. Now I would like to make a contribution to hopefully help out someone else.

Truck: 2001 ZQ8, 4.3/auto
Engine: 2004 LS1/auto
Accessories: Corvette with Holley’s A/C kit
Oil pan: LS2 with a notched cross member
Headers/Mounts: CPW LT’s and Poly mounts
Cooling: Stock 4.3 radiator, (fans unknown)
Wiring: modified truck harness with PCM controlled fans
Exhaust: Undecided, but I love the sound of Corsa mufflers

Progress will be slow until I have collected the majority of parts, but my plan is to start the swap sometime in the fall. I am sure I will have tons of questions as time goes on, so I will keep them in this thread instead of making a new one for every question.
This forum has been a huge help already and I can’t wait to get started.

The truck:




The engine cleaned up and waiting:




With headers test fitted:








Did my SW logo get welded on backwards?

 

Nice looking s10, I'm gathering stuff for my build too. I have a 91 s10 I wonder how those headers will fit on a 1st Gen s10? Also where are you buying your harness from?

 

The headers should fit a first gen. There are a few people on the forum who have done it already.
I am going to modify a 5.7 truck harness to work with this engine.
This is the before and after of a F-body harness I am using for parts

 

Why not just use the f-body harness?

 

It had some wires cut off of it already and a few of the connectors were damaged. I am also using a 2002 Tahoe PCM and I didn't want to re-pin the connectors for that. It would have been harder in the long run.

I just realized the first harness picture is a truck harness too, not the F-Body.

 

Small update:
I have been working on rebuilding the harness and have most of it together except for the transmission wiring. I hope to have it finished around Thanksgiving time. Also, for anyone doing this swap on an S10 using StainlessWorks long tube headers, I found that the GTO starter will not fit because of how the solenoid is clocked. I will need to buy a 5.3 starter or similar.

The truck harness I used after removing the loom:


All labeled and ready for dis-assembly:


Down to each circuit and ready for re-assembly:


My rig to hold up the longer parts of the harness:






















Starter fitment: The header isn't bolted completely flush to the head.

 

Nice build !!

 

Thanks Man!

 

Looking good man!

 

I appreciate it!

 

On Thanksgiving I decided to start tearing my truck down for the swap. I had 5 days off from work, so I thought why not, as I planned to start after the New Year. Since then, I have been working on the weekends, making as much progress as I can.
Where I started



Fender height for reference:

Passenger:


Driver:


This thing came apart pretty easily, thank God it is rust-free





Engine is out and the frame cleaned up and painted.









I installed the engine without trans to see where I was with clearance between the Holley oil pan and my crossmember. I read of a few people who were able to make it work without cutting, but I guess I am not that lucky. These show where the engine sits with the mounts all the way back. The oil pan still contacted the crossmember and I had almost zero firewall clearance, so out came the cutting tools. I was able to borrow a welder and make some filler plates to box in the frame. I am pretty happy with how it came out. I now have tons of clearance, even with the engine all the way forward.
Test fit and firewall clearance after the initial cut. I forgot to take pictures before I cut:







Pan-to-frame clearance with engine all the way forward. I ended up cutting a little bit more on the angle to make up for space lost when I welded the filler.





The filler pieces were made from 3/16” and welded up. Tons of clearance now!












Painted up with wiring and brake line in place. I will have to re-do the brake line after test fitting the engine with headers however.

 

I had to make a decent notch in the starter housing for the Longtubes. It fits like a glove now, with about 3/16” clearance. The trans cooler lines had to be bent a little bit to put some space between them and the headers. I still need to figure out how to terminate them with the cooler I am using. I also found out that a GTO starter will not work with these headers, so I had to go out and buy another one.






GTO starter interference:


This is how I decided to run my fuel system. I will be using nylon hose with the quick disconnects on either end to go to the fuel rails. I also decided to run billet rails because the inlet to the factory rails interfered with the truck coils and I didn’t feel comfortable bending or modifying it. Plus the billet rails clean things up nicely. The EVAP system will also remain functional.





The G-Force Cross member went in fairly easily, but I did have to drill two holes on the passenger side where it didn’t line up.



Next came time to test the engine fitment with the headers bolted up. I found two areas where I have a problem. The first is the control arms I bought. The #2 primary touches the rear bushing. The contact isn’t huge, but I feel even if I were to gain some clearance, that it will still be too close and melt the bushing. I have ordered a set of UB Machine arms with steel bushings to hopefully fix the issue. I may also move the engine rearward ¼”. The second place I am having interference is the brake line. This should be easy to fix by bending up a new line or modifying this one.







The firewall has plenty of clearance near the heat shield after a few whacks of the hammer.



I have some concern about the steering shaft melting anywhere with the header that close. There is clearance, but it is about ¼”. I may install a heat shield of some sort around the shaft to mitigate heat damage.







Other than those small issues, everything seems to be going smoothly. I need to order up my exhaust stuff this week and continue plugging away. Here is where I am as of today, plenty of clearance for the radiator and where the trans cooler lines end.







I am also trying to decide if I can go with 2.5" exhaust or 3". I plan to make some power upgrades in the future.

 

No, it is just a subtle hint to route them fwd to a turbo.

Nice project and pics.

 

haha, somewhat of a subliminal message.

 

Looking good, I like those headers.

 

Since you already have the nicest headers made for this swap, just do 3" exhaust now, so you don't have to change it later. JMO

 

I agree with rpturbo, 3"! I'm doing a similar swap and I bought Magnaflow's 12599 muffler. Dual 3" in/out with an integrated X-pipe.

Questions: first, why Corvette accessories? Probably because they came with your motor, but do you know if I would be able to fit Camaro accessories if I already have them?

Also, I never knew about the G-Force cross members, I'm looking into them now. However, I plan on running a T56... and they don't look like they offer a T56 crossmember. Do you know of a place to get a T56 crossmember other than CPW? They didn't want to sell just their crossmember...

Beautiful truck, looks really nice! Are you expecting a change in ride height with the new motor?

 

Thanks!

-The Corvette accessories are the shallowest option, and I wanted plenty of clearance in front of the radiator. The camaro accessories don't work because the alternator mounts where the steering box is. If theres a way to convert it, then it may work.

-I don't know of anyone else who makes a T56 cross member. Most people on the forum build their own.

-I have a feeling it will sit a little higher up front since the engine is aluminum. Other people have done this swap with iron blocks and the same suspension, and their ride height didn't change.

I am really really having a hard time deciding on exhaust, I don't know why. It has been the toughest decision for me during this whole swap. I have entertained the idea of the dual in/out with x-pipe, but I have heard its too loud, I just cant decide lol.

 

I would cut the orange rubber sleeve off the steering shaft. Its really not needed if you keep your truck clean. I removed mine. Yours will surely melt.

 

I believe GForce has a conversion for the cross member to accept a T56