Lq motor with 04 harness that was stripped of non essential wires.

Here's what I don't know so far:

Starter enabled relay. Where does this go?

Tcc wire? Automatic van was the harness, no using t56

where is the neutral saftey wire? Can't seem to find it on the pinout from lt1swap

Motor will crank freely and I'm getting 10.6 ish volts while cranking to the coil (battery is full btw). Plug itself shows no spark when unplugged and layer against a ground.

 

None of the questions you have will cause a no spark situation. To address the neutral safety switch, what are you using for a gearshift? Some aftermarket shifters have a neutral safety switch built in, otherwise you will have to use a factory switch or make one yourself (safety issue). Wiring would go something like: from the start terminal of the key switch to the neutral safety switch (only start in park or neutral) then to the starter solenoid. The TCC wire can be incorporated into the stoplight circuit with a standard 30 amp relay. In normal operation power is directed to the converter but with the brake is pushed power is diverted from the converter to the stop lights. Does the fuel pump run?

 

Yes fuel pump primes fine and holding at 40 psi (motor is not tuned and on e85).

I'm going to re check all grounds tonight, looks like there is about 10 grounds coming out of the pcm. Using a stock f body gear shifter.

 

Is there a way to check if the pcm is actually working? Vehicle was running when I pulled all of the harness and motor. If I remember correctly, there are only 2 hot wires going to the pcm.

 

You should have 58psi at the rail. At 40psi, It might start, but it might stall of stop running will any load ot throttle being added.

If your using a Fbody shifter, it should have the provisions for a P/N switch. You can alway use a truck switch which mounts onto the trans, but you will have to swap the shifter shaft over also, as it uses a longer one as compared to a Fbody one

For the TCC, try using a Fbody switch brake/TCC switch in place of tge obe being used now. Now sure what car/truck you have. If you need help on this switch check out my Nove build, it has the steps to use, swap over and wire it up.

But as stated before, none of the (maybe fuel) should keep it from starting ir at lease trying to start. Did you flash out the DTC cide, including the VATS?

tell us more about what you have and who did what?

good luck

BC

 

Like the others have said nothing should be preventing it from starting. Have you verified that the PCM sees both constant 12v at the orange and switched 12v at the pinks both at PCM and fuse/relay block.

 

I checked all grounds last night. I hooked my test light to the positive battery side and it lit up on all grounds. Test light verified all hots are connected. I guess I'll check and see if it's a full 12v next. I also got my obd2 hooked up and will scan for codes tonight.

 

Verify that you do not have any issues with your crank and cam position sensor wiring or connectors. Mine were damaged when the motor was pulled at the junkyard causing the motor not to start. I fixed the problem and it fired right up.

 

Ended up being something stupid. When we unplugged the wires I didn't need from the computer, somehow we pulled one called crank voltage. I was seriously about to throw the towel In lol.

Thanks guys for the help!