lsxRanger94

At least your getaway car is fast!

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Not if he doesn't solve the traction issues first! ...but he can do the smoke screen to help the getaway process.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

What he said. Not much available for 15s in a performance tire of a size you'd want.

Other than those suggestions, Cal Tracs or Slide-a-links are another option which help considerably on a leaf-sprung car.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Any kind of traction bar, Caltrac setup will be bad for the road /auto-x track. As suggested.. research for a proper 3 or 4 link setup that well enhance preformance for the type of driving you do.

As far as traction.. proper tuning of the suspension, springs, shocks, sway bars and Tires is all you can do... But there is not much you can do if you have too much power and can break traction. Even Sprint Cup cars will sping the tires at speed. You only option is how you use the right foot LOL.

Good luck..

HwyStarJoe

Now Cal Tracs or Slide-a-Links I can get behind. I didnt think about them at first. There aren't very many threads complaining about my traction issues to garner info from. Did a little research so I'll have to make some decisions on a few things before commiting to something along those lines.

The BFGs are Treadwear 400 and Traction A. So they're hard as a rock, but higher on the traction scale. Yeah, for an anemic small block maybe.

Larger wheels, wider and softer compound tires, traction aids, disc brakes, adjustable shocks....
Santa, are you listening?
My goal someday is to autocross, and always has been, so I've been driving the wheels off the last few years to shake it down as well as learn the cars handling quirks.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

any of your local oval track guys that run in the higher classes should have a set of scales to check your weight bias - probably get it scaled for a 12 pack you can just hold up a convenience store to get that

ijimmy

I had good luck with the nito drag radials mentioned , on a 55o horse , 650 torque chevelle , but the chevelles have 4 links , so they handle way better than a leaf spring car . If you insist on keeping the leafs caltracs are a good upgrade . slider links with a 4 bar , or ladder bar system , even better . I curently own a 68 camaro with a total cost involved 4 link , mini tubes , 295s , and a narrowed explorer rear end , 373 posi , 31 spline axils , disc brakes , it handles NOTHING like the previous 4 fist gen camaros I had owned , its on rails , and immediately exiting a corner it points were you want it to go , the leaf spring cars were like a horse and buggy

lsxRanger94

Agreed. You will need more track time to perfect your driving skill. The autocross suggestions on here will help you. Not so much the drag car setups, because they didn't read your post.

HwyStarJoe

A lighter foot... that's not like being light in the loafers is it? Not that there's anything wrong with that.
I don't know how to do that anyway...

lt170chevelle

iTrader: (2)

As mentioned , the nitto drag radials are a good street tire. when I put them on my chevelle it made a world of a difference and has good street and weather manners.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I'm not really sure where this perception comes from. A slapper-style traction bar would probably not be suited to road / auto-x because of the non-continuous engagement (when it "hits" it upsets the suspension), but a Caltrac setup is always connected and it can indeed improve traction coming out of corners, prevent wheel hop, and prevent axle wrap which can destroy u-joints. The only argument I've heard against them in road / auto-x is that they could cause binding - I personally think it's quite the opposite since spring wrap and unloading can cause more damage/binding than these.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

15" BFGs Radial T/As might be the worst tires on the planet for traction. No amount of suspension is going to make them work at anything but getting from point A to point B.

You have 2 options basically: 15" drag radials or get some 17"/18" wheels with a summer tire.

I just switched from junk 15"s to 17" with Nitto summer tires and they hook nearly as hard on the street as my MT ET Street radial 15"s.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

And for what it's worth my car was WAY faster at autox on 275/50 ET Streets than 295/50 street tires (of any flavor they come in). I also use slapper bars on the car but set them against the frame.

I was due for tires and instead of wasting more money on the 15"s I ordered a set of cheap wheels. Spent around $1000 for all 4 brand new: 275/40 on 17x9.5" fronts and 285/40 on 17x9.5" rears. It's the most amazing difference in the car since the LS1 swap. Traction for cornering, braking, and accelerating are all through the roof in comparison.

The wheels are the B&G Rod Works Old School sold through Discount Tire Direct. They look great and aren't even that heavy for 17"s. Tires are Nitto 555 summer tires (NOT drag radials). The car will hold a WOT downshift to 1st on them if the pavement is decent. They spin bad from a stop in first but seem to hold everything else I can throw at them.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Have you checked your pinon angle or IC?

HwyStarJoe

Have never weighed the corners, verified the instant center or the pinion angle. The reason being is just the lame nature of the current setup...didn't see a reason to since I KNEW there is major room for improvements. I keep meaning to check the pinion angle, but either forget to or get lazy even though its the easiest to adjust.

And the Cragars and BFGs were a 'lack of a larger budget' compromise back in 2010 when I first put the car on the road. Being very happy with the way the car handled, I really enjoyed driving it till I couldn't stand the engine being so lame anymore. So, more power was the next major improvement... Now it shows the weaknesses in the road grip that a whimpy 350 couldn't.

Slapper bars were never an option...not for this car. I want it to corner and be able to take a curve at speed, then let me get into it and not worry about throwing the rear out. The first time I drove it after the LS2\4L65 swap was a handful to say the least. The first 'power thru the turn' I took had my passenger shitting his pants but I knew the way the car handled so I recovered pretty easily. Fortunately there wasn't anything or anybody on the turn so I was lucky, but I don't do that anymore.

I never drive it on wet roads. Ever. I don't feel like cleaning underneath it all the time. But if its dry, I'm in it, no matter how short or long the trip is. The fuel mileage is amazing, and all the thumbs-up and comments ain't bad either.

I couldn't imagine having a rear swaybar. The car doesn't need one...its that solid. Maybe I'm expecting too much and just need to work with the limitations until I can stick it to the pavement better. I'm sure I don't have to tell y'all how hard that is to do when youre strapped into a beast that's waiting for those accelerator pedal signals to hit the throttle body a little deeper.

lsxRanger94

Slap a big wing on the back and make it a drift car!

lsxRanger94

Ok. I think I have your answer.... It may be the Guldstrand mod. After doing a little research on what is and does, I found that the mod actually changes roll center, roll stiffness and camber gain. Limits the amount of suspension travel by lowering the upper control arm mounts. Excellent for handling. Now in drag racing where you want maximum weight transfer, you want the roll center to be the same height as driveline. And Full suspension travel in the front for weight transfer. I would talk to a reputable suspension shop and see if there is a compromise. They may suggest moving the upper control arms back to stock location(if you didn't trim down the mounts).

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I guess I'm failing to see what responses you were wanting when you posted this thread. You are against slapper bars. Say that bigger wheels, tires, etc. aren't in the budget.

Like anything with cars you have to make a compromise somewhere. Rather if it's giving up street manners for big hp or auto crossing your car instead of racing in a straight line.


The more money you have to throw at the car the compromises begin to shrink because you can use better more well designed parts; FI for more power but still drivable, 3,4, or fully independent suspension, etc.

Now if you don't have a lot of money to throw at a car you make the most of what you have and accept the limitations of the car's ability.

There is a 68' Camaro that races in the X275 class that cuts 1.17 60 fts. So it leaf sprung cars can hook but it takes more work and time.


There's only so much you can address on a leaf sprung car.

Tires
Shocks
Axle wind up

I'm sorry but there is no cheap and easy way to get your car to do everything you want it to do.

HwyStarJoe

The responses I was looking for have more or less been answered. And those answers helped me put together a prioritized list that I can bang against my current 'updates' budget for some improvements.

I know there'll always be compromises I'll have to accept unless I win Powerball and buy a new Z28.

As for the Guldstrand mod, it was done at a time when there weren't a slew of companies making control arms that do the same thing, only better. And yep...I cut the mounts.

Maybe I'll cut a video so my driving can be critique'd. That way I can refine my technique as well as refine the car.