My name is Stephan and I have been lurking for a while reading and trying to soak in all the info. It has been 7 years since I have driven my Cutlass and I think it is time to get back on it and get it back on the road. I use to have a 468 w/ a 200-4r trans that was rebuilt 3 times. Don't know the reasons it kept breaking, but past all that now. I got a great deal on a 2002 LM7 with wiring harness and computer all there. I also found a 4l80e trans for $100 and the fluid was bright red out of a van. So that is good to go. May throw a shift kit in it just to help it out alittle.

But anyways I have read tons on this sight and think I am headed in the correct direction. I guess I just need opinions and reasurances to make sure I am headed to my goal.

Right now I plan on getting it running and driveable with a LS6 cam and LS1 intake. Just looking to get it on the road and nice platform to possibly throw a turbo on later once funds are available.

I currently am to the point that mock-up is done and getting ready to get quotes to take it into the body shop to get a new brighter white on it. I bought some plates of ebay for factory motor mounts to bolt to it and I fabbed up my own motor perches to the crossmember. The oil pan is 3/4" above the crossmember and I have plenty of clearance for my steering and the power steering pump on the truck accessory bracket. I also built my own trans crossmember since my factory one wouldn't work. The motor sits to high to be able to use the truck manifold and the truck accessories. So that is why I am going to a LS1 intake. My thoughts are to use Corvette brackets for the alternator and power steering. Does this all seem correct. And I believe I need to use the LS1 water pump also for these things to work.

I will post some pics for you guys and I will have more questions here soon. I know the motor in the pic with the bare chassis is not my new LM7 it was from a past idea of injecting my 468 with dual throttle bodies. That got pushed aside because I figured I could get the newer motor running and installed for alot less and be able to get more power for cheaper.

Thanks for looking

 

If you swap for corvette brackets, you'll need the corvette water pump and crank pulley.
There are aftermarket brackets (Holley, Kwik) that are spaced for Truck accessories. But you can keep the current truck bracket and modify for LS1 intake.
Check out my 72 Olds build thread, all info is there.

 

[QUOTE=garys 68;18446758]If you swap for corvette brackets, you'll need the corvette water pump and crank pulley.
There are aftermarket brackets (Holley, Kwik) that are spaced for Truck accessories. But you can keep the current truck bracket and modify for LS1 intake.
Check out my 72 Olds build thread, all info is there.[/QUOTE

The other problem I have is that the alt. sits to high also. that is the reason I was going to go to those brackets. Unless there is another way to keep the power steering where it is and just relocate the alt.

 

Very cool car... I love the big '66-67 Cutlass body.

You might check into these guys. They seem to have a couple budget friendly options for lowering your truck alternator.

http://www.lssimple.net/

 

If you have not found it yet, the A body sticky. Good examples there of what you're trying to do.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...2-gm-body.html
You might want to double check the alternator. I was worried too, mine fit with no problem.

 

Ya the body line on the older A-bodies is shorter than the later ones. I even had a problem with the intake on my 468 the air cleaner actually rubbed the hood and I had a drop base cleaner with a slimmer filter. I also have the motor sitting in the car now. With the fender on I put a level straight edge across and the top of the alt was higher than that. The also slopes more on my body style.

I did look thru those but couldn't find much about the LM7 in there. But I will look again. But I did notice the 64 Chevelle is close but for some reason my still sits higher.

Thanks

 

The 5.3 LM7 will have the same footprint as any truck 4.8. 5.3, 6.0, 6.2.
Another consideration in your accessories is your throttle body, DBW vs cable, and year. You can spend a lot on accessories that wont work together.
Also if you go to aftermarket or vette PS pump, there can be pulley interference issues. And while there are multiple pulleys available for truck, f body, GTO pumps, the vette ones are very few.

 

I know you still have a lot of your front end parts off yet, but it's worth taking a measurement of your driveline angle. I'm finalizing the install of an LQ9 into my 71 cutlass and found that the slider brackets I originally used left me too close to the hood on both my intake and alternator and put my transmission at a 6 degree downward angle. I was able to drop the front of the engine 3/4 of an inch by reconfiguring mounts and at the same time made my driveline angle much more workable.

 

Looks like its going to be a nice ride. Good luck with the build. Did you cut your trans tunnel? What style of oil pan? Keep the pictures coming.

 

This one I was kind of torn about. I was originally going to go with cable, because the guy I bought the motor off of had started with that. But then I was reading about people using the DBW and getting cruise control and I really like that idea also. I am kind of torn, but I will more than likely end up using the cable because I already have the throttle body on there.
I was checking out the aftermarket brackets and it seems I might save myself a headache and time just by using something from them. The LSSimple that krwyellowZ28 mentioned look pretty nice and not very expensive also. I guess there will be some points I will just have to suck it up and spend some money.

 

I feel like I have checked everything out thoroughly. But I will look over it again. But I do know If I could drop the front of the motor down any I still won't have the clearance for the hood. I believe the motor is sitting at 4.5 to 5 deg now.

 

I know I can't wait to get it on the road and starting this thread is helping me get the energy to get out and work on it. I won't have to many more pics because I am trying to save up to hopefully get it to a body shop by next summer and get a new vinyl top and paint on it.

But on your question about the tunnel. No I have not needed to cut the it. I thought I was going to have to but it seems I can get my hand all in between the sides and I can see a space above it. I also am using the stock truck pan and I believe how I have the motor sitting in the car I will have clearance for my steering. I won't know for sure until I get my steering wheel back in and try turning everything.