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Accessory drive conversion Q's - G body

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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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Default Accessory drive conversion Q's - G body

This is an LQ9 going into an 86 El Camino. Random questions to get me pointed in the right direction:

1- I assume both the 6.0 and the 5.7 are internal balance? So an F-body crank pulley/balancer will work? Same goes for using a 5.7 flywheel on a 6.0?

2- I'm confused on F-body water pumps. Something about some pumps require an integral stat/housing and others have a separate stat and housing? Which one do I get?

3- I'm likely building my own accessory brackets since I can fab very well (unless I find an F-body drive for less than three weeks income). When choosing a PS pump, can the F-body pump be re-sprung to provide more pressure for my old-school steering box? Or should I get an old-style pump and make brackets?

4- are all timing covers the same? Do I need an F-body timing cover to clear the water pump?

I'm sure I'll think of more. I sifted through about 30 pages of the G-body thread and got a headache but didn't find what I was looking for.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by curtis73
This is an LQ9 going into an 86 El Camino. Random questions to get me pointed in the right direction:

1- I assume both the 6.0 and the 5.7 are internal balance? So an F-body crank pulley/balancer will work? Same goes for using a 5.7 flywheel on a 6.0?

2- I'm confused on F-body water pumps. Something about some pumps require an integral stat/housing and others have a separate stat and housing? Which one do I get?

3- I'm likely building my own accessory brackets since I can fab very well (unless I find an F-body drive for less than three weeks income). When choosing a PS pump, can the F-body pump be re-sprung to provide more pressure for my old-school steering box? Or should I get an old-style pump and make brackets?

4- are all timing covers the same? Do I need an F-body timing cover to clear the water pump?

I'm sure I'll think of more. I sifted through about 30 pages of the G-body thread and got a headache but didn't find what I was looking for.
Hey Curtis, I can give you some partial help to your questions in relation to the accessory drive...have you considered just using the truck accessory brackets that came with your LQ9 in your swap? If that is something you have interest in, you can do just that with the new Hooker G-body LS swap brackets. You can also use the F-body and GTO accessory drives with them.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
Hey Curtis, I can give you some partial help to your questions in relation to the accessory drive...have you considered just using the truck accessory brackets that came with your LQ9 in your swap? If that is something you have interest in, you can do just that with the new Hooker G-body LS swap brackets. You can also use the F-body and GTO accessory drives with them.
I don't have any brackets. The donor truck was an 04 Escalade that had a front impact and the brackets were broken. I salvaged the alternator and that's it.

I either need to fab brackets (which I can do) or find accessories/brackets. But I have no idea which ones will work better. I'm also completely confused on F-body water pumps with the different size outlets, thermostats that require a housing or not, and then according to rock auto something changed in 2004 that requires something different.

Basically, what I need to know is (not having any brackets), where should I start? I can fab for basically free with some scrap steel here, or spend $900 on a fancy kit.... or something in between.

The truck water pump that is on it is in good shape and could be re-used.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 06:23 PM
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And as far as mounts, I haven't decided. It kinda pains me to pay $100 for mounts that I could build here for free. I was hoping to find templates for this style (pictured below) so its a drop-in. I was going to build the plates and bolt them on the block. Then cut the "ears" and bolt them on the frame pads. Then lower the engine with accessories and headers, adjust front/back, mark the block pads where the ears go, remove, and weld. I could also make the block plates and then hack up the original block shells to make the ears.

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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 06:52 PM
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To each his own...The time I would save by being able to just bolt in a $125 set of brackets that were matched to a trans crossmember and headers that were designed to work with them to achieve optimized clearances and engine inclination angle on the first try would be money saved in my opinion. What oil pan are you planning on using? you might be able to buy a truck acc. drive on ebay for much less than you think.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
To each his own...The time I would save by being able to just bolt in a $125 set of brackets that were matched to a trans crossmember and headers that were designed to work with them to achieve optimized clearances and engine inclination angle on the first try would be money saved in my opinion. What oil pan are you planning on using? you might be able to buy a truck acc. drive on ebay for much less than you think.
I look at it from a satisfaction standpoint first, and think about how many of those $125 a person saves by doing it on their own. I'm a do-er, not a buyer, know what I mean?

And as far as angles are concerned, this is a complete driveline change; engine, transmission, driveshaft, tranny crossmember (which I will be fabbing myself as well) axle, everything. verifying and setting angles would be required no matter how much I spend on mounts.

Oil pan is already here. Its the CTS-V pan. now THAT was $150 that was well spent. I got this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19212593

Last edited by curtis73; Oct 11, 2014 at 07:19 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 07:13 PM
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Toddoky... you are with Hooker, right? Those mounts will clear all the necessary stuff? That is another concern of mine... do I dimple F-body headers, or do I pony up the big money for yours (no offense, they're fairly priced, I just enjoy saving money.)

I just assumed that (like any swap mounts) they have their drawbacks, but if you can convince me, that might be $125 well spent. Coils clear the A/C? Truck accessories clear the crossmember? Are your G-body headers available yet?
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 07:36 PM
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Read this https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...-tech-data.pdf it answers every question there is about Hookers g body swap parts.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 07:46 PM
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Lots of good info in there. Thank you.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by curtis73
Toddoky... you are with Hooker, right? Those mounts will clear all the necessary stuff? That is another concern of mine... do I dimple F-body headers, or do I pony up the big money for yours (no offense, they're fairly priced, I just enjoy saving money.)

I just assumed that (like any swap mounts) they have their drawbacks, but if you can convince me, that might be $125 well spent. Coils clear the A/C? Truck accessories clear the crossmember? Are your G-body headers available yet?
Fry directed you to the bulletin I prepared for the Hooker parts so thanks to him for pointing that out...the engine brackets are available now and the crossmember and headers will be following them in a few weeks.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
Fry directed you to the bulletin I prepared for the Hooker parts so thanks to him for pointing that out...the engine brackets are available now and the crossmember and headers will be following them in a few weeks.
Will it be offered as a kit or individual pieces? I guess I'm asking should I wait and get a kit, or go ahead and get them one by one?

And how are those mounts different from the 12621 version?

Last edited by curtis73; Oct 11, 2014 at 09:00 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by curtis73
Will it be offered as a kit or individual pieces? I guess I'm asking should I wait and get a kit, or go ahead and get them one by one?
They will all be available as individual pieces as there are far too many possible combinations of parts to make stocking/ offering kits feasible...Hooker/Holley will be offering an oil pan ,mid-length headers, cast iron manifolds, exhaust systems and the adapters to connect them all together in addition to the engine brackets, trans crossmember and long-tube headers so you can see where the choices to the user will be quite extensive. Unfortunately, if you are dead set on using the CTSV pan the Hooker set-up will not be a viable option for you as the engine brackets position the engine too low in the frame for that pan to fit without experiencing interference will the engine crossmember.
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Old Oct 12, 2014 | 10:41 AM
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Ok, thanks for that info.

12621 mounts an option with the CTS-v pan?

I have no problem buying a whole integrated system, but like you pointed out, I may have fitment issues regardless. Absolutely not a reflection on Hooker parts, its completely due to the production variables in the G-body. Since I enjoy fabrication (and I'm darn good at it ) you can maybe see why I'm tempted to go less expensive and encounter the same fitment issues

Still... might dive in. A few weeks from now will be about the time I'm bolting the LQ9 and T56 in place.
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Old Oct 12, 2014 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by curtis73
Ok, thanks for that info.

12621 mounts an option with the CTS-v pan?

I have no problem buying a whole integrated system, but like you pointed out, I may have fitment issues regardless. Absolutely not a reflection on Hooker parts, its completely due to the production variables in the G-body. Since I enjoy fabrication (and I'm darn good at it ) you can maybe see why I'm tempted to go less expensive and encounter the same fitment issues

Still... might dive in. A few weeks from now will be about the time I'm bolting the LQ9 and T56 in place.
Yes, the 12621HKR swap brackets were developed about 5 years ago at a time when the 302-2 Holley pan didn't exist and so were designed around the geometry of the Holley 302-1 pan, which is much taller in the front like the CTSV pan. The engine height and fore/aft position provided by those mounts does not permit the use of the truck accessory drive and are not compatible with any specific trans crossmember, so just be aware of that if you want to go that route. Since you plan to fabricate some of your parts that may work out for you. You will not be able to achieve what I consider to be a desirable engine inclination angle with those brackets unless you cut out the tunnel floor and rebuild it. This will especially be pertinent to you since the T56 trans you plan on using hangs lower in the center of the car than just about any other transmission.
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Old Oct 12, 2014 | 11:36 AM
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1. Yep all are internal balance, so any balancer will work. Vette, truck, f-body, GTO, CTSV, etc.

2. Which pump did you find that didnt have an integral t-stat housing? All the 98-02 f-body, truck, vette, or even the 5th gen camaro pumps that I have found (at least the oem and their copies) have the t-stat housing cast in.

3. The 4th gen f-body uses the saginaw type ii power steering pump, so you can screw your old pressure port/orifice/spring/control valve in and have the correct pressure for your steering box.

4. Yep all the truck, 4thgen f-body, etc timing covers are the same

5.
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Old Oct 12, 2014 | 03:20 PM
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Toddoky and G-body, thank you for those responses.
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Old Oct 12, 2014 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by G-Body
2. Which pump did you find that didnt have an integral t-stat housing? All the 98-02 f-body, truck, vette, or even the 5th gen camaro pumps that I have found (at least the oem and their copies) have the t-stat housing cast in.
I've attached a screen cap of the rockauto descriptions. Its confusing. I tried 98, 99, and 02 Camaro and got the same description for all. Things like "for OEM and most aftermarket" or "for vehicles requiring integral" or "if pump is 04 or newer you must get a newer style inlet."

Since I may keep the truck pump, it may be a non issue, but you can see why I was confused.
Attached Thumbnails Accessory drive conversion Q's - G body-stat.jpg  
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Old Oct 12, 2014 | 08:15 PM
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Toddoky... I just found something out that is potentially very important to this part of the discussion.

The oil pan I bought was the GMPP PN 19212593. I was erroneously told that it was just a CTS-v pan sold as a conversion pan from Chevrolet. Looking at a CTS-v pan and my pan, its definitely not a CTS-v. The one I have is THIS ONE. If its not a CTS-v pan, what is it?
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Old Oct 12, 2014 | 08:50 PM
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Ok.. just figured it out, its the H3 pan.

I'm getting it figured out, just tired of getting conflicting information (not here, but from others who say they know it all)

Looks like the H3 pan would allow it to sit lower, but the deeper sump means I would want it higher. I think its time to yank the 305 and just lower this bad boy in there.
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Old Oct 12, 2014 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by curtis73
Ok.. just figured it out, its the H3 pan.

I'm getting it figured out, just tired of getting conflicting information (not here, but from others who say they know it all)

Looks like the H3 pan would allow it to sit lower, but the deeper sump means I would want it higher. I think its time to yank the 305 and just lower this bad boy in there.
You're not going to like how far that H3 pan hangs below the engine crossmember (3-4"), so prepare yourself to be disappointed.
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