ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

I can't really justify tapping into the water pump at the thermostat housing for a steam port. Steam ports relieve steam, which rises, to the highest point of the cooling system, so there aren't any air pockets in the system. The radiator cap is often the highest point in the chassis for the cooling system, so that's where the last air bubbles will go.
Also, when you're filling the cooling system, a truck water pump is great for this because you can just fill the whole block up through the upper hose outlet, then fill the radiator.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I got a 5.3L engine out of a Trailblazer a while back and the heater hose that was closest to the front (the bigger line) had a nipple in it that was no farther than 6 inches from the water pump.

Here is a picture (this is in a swapped vehicle, but those are OEM hoses):



See the nipple in the hard part of the hose?

I see no difference it attaching the stem line at that point or into the water pump as I showed in the previous picture that I posted. It has worked for me for the last 6 years, but y'all can do what you want.

Andrew

homemade87

I did put mine in top of the water pump which is right by the exit hose to the radiator. In my eyes I think the steam line is to keep some fluid running thru it to keep from having a dead still air pocket with no where to go. As long as there is fluid flow no matter where you put is is fine. Any air will eventually make it to the top of the radiator as long as there is circulation.

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

wow, I had no idea they deigned them like this...

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Yep. Anywhere there is lower pressure than the steam lines, and doesn't have suction. So, upper part of radiator, upper hose, t-stat housing, heater return hose, etc. Bad locations would include lower radiator hose, heater supply, etc. On mine, I'm using the truck accessories so the highest point in the system is the upper hose. Using the Jags That Run splice, I'm able to bleed the system from that port on the top. The steam fitting is under the splice.

Attachment 724246

Attachment 723026

Nevermind that heater loop...that was temporary...

EDIT

Found a more recent pic with a better angle of it.
Attachment 723045

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Isnt that kind of a contradiction? I think we all get what you're saying though.

homemade87

I think the word steam is miss leading in this case. When you have a dead air pocket when heated it will create steam. What this hose is doing is removing the air pocket with circulation. No more steam . There is no natural rise of steam to remove it. It is done with circulation of the coolant. If there happens to be air, it will be removed by the circulating coolant. This is what 1970camarors was saying. To create circulation you need a high pressure side to low pressure side. It is not as important to how you get it as long as you have a pressure difference to create circulation. That's why you see in the picture above a low inlet on the heater hose . Gm has created circulation.

Once the system is purged and working proper there is no steam present. It is a circulating coolant system. It is just to keep the steam from forming in the head because it has no where to go.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Yes, this is a perfect clarification. I've been battling a sinus infection the last few days and I'm surprised my previous post made any sense at all.

Sebtarta

iTrader: (1)

-snip-

Rogue Status

iTrader: (1)

On my swap, using a F-Body water pump, I just left the truck stuff in place, rear block offs and crossover. Instead of forking over the $40 for the LS1 crossover, I carefully heated and bent the truck nipple to a 90 and then tapped the top of the water pump and added a brass barb 90* fitting. Connected the two with some hose and clamps. Car runs at 194* in the dead of South Carolina summers and have seen no ill effects thus far.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Didn't have your coffee yet?

Andrew

roninsonic

iTrader: (3)

I have the JagsThatRun piece with the bleed valve. Nice machined aluminum piece, was cheap, too.

Sebtarta

iTrader: (1)

I did, at 6:30am, reason was to delete something i wrote and did not want to start an internetz war.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I saw what you wrote. No sweat off my you know whats...There are multiple ways to plumb this line and just because GM did it one way and not another may not have anything to do with engineering. Cost considerations are always a part of their calculations as are potential modes of failure. Peace...

Andrew

sssuch

Just put into the Upper Hose the adapter is available on e-bay cheap. They call it , " Temperature Gauge Radiator hose sensor ADAPTER" I payed $12 shipped and others are even less. Add a 1/4 inch 90 degree hose nipple and You're done.

How do You Guys get the big pictures in Your posts ? All I get is a little thumb for someone to click on .

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

Post on photobucket and then put the link in.