1960 Bel-Air 5.3 Swap Fuel System Question
#1
1960 Bel-Air 5.3 Swap Fuel System Question
Hey guys, first time poster and really hoping you can help me out. I am attempting my first ever 5.3 swap and I am doing it in a 1960 Bel Air. I have done a ton of research and I have everything pretty well figured out EXCEPT the fuel system.
I have a 2001 5.3 LM7. The motor has a fuel return system which is where I get confused. Coming off the motor I believe there are 3 or 4 lines which combine(I believe?) and go into the fuel rails. Of those steel lines, I don't know which one takes the fuel, which one returns, and what the others do. I also don't know the easiest way to run the return.
Right now I the car set up with a Walbro 255 external inline pump. I keep reading about a Corvette filter/regulator, but I am not sure which system that is for, and what the benefit is.
Any and all help is appreciated and pictures help me tremendously!
Thank you!
It's going to be a sleeper for awhile. This is a picture of it the day I got it. I am going to use IROC wheels one it once I get everything set up.
Not the prettiest, but I figure it's okay for a start
I have a 2001 5.3 LM7. The motor has a fuel return system which is where I get confused. Coming off the motor I believe there are 3 or 4 lines which combine(I believe?) and go into the fuel rails. Of those steel lines, I don't know which one takes the fuel, which one returns, and what the others do. I also don't know the easiest way to run the return.
Right now I the car set up with a Walbro 255 external inline pump. I keep reading about a Corvette filter/regulator, but I am not sure which system that is for, and what the benefit is.
Any and all help is appreciated and pictures help me tremendously!
Thank you!
It's going to be a sleeper for awhile. This is a picture of it the day I got it. I am going to use IROC wheels one it once I get everything set up.
Not the prettiest, but I figure it's okay for a start
#2
On the fuel rail there will be a 3/8 line and a 5/16. The 3/8 is the feed and the 5/16 is the return. The third line that is with them is an evap line that goes to the purge solenoid, you won't need that one. Also, the Corvette filter/regulator is for a returnless rail, they have one 3/8 feed and that's all, but since you have an older engine with both feed and return, you don't need it. Just put a regular EFI rated filter in line between the pump and rail on the feed line and you are done. Cool car BTW, should make a nice sleeper.
#3
So as far as the evap line, can I take it out completely or should I plug it?
Then, off the return line just run a hard line back to the tank? Or is there a more simple way to do it without going all the way to the back of the car.
Thanks! Isn't too much to look at but I figured it was a good candidate for my first swap. When it's all said and done it will be a complete resto-mod.
Then, off the return line just run a hard line back to the tank? Or is there a more simple way to do it without going all the way to the back of the car.
Thanks! Isn't too much to look at but I figured it was a good candidate for my first swap. When it's all said and done it will be a complete resto-mod.
#4
Don't sell it short it's awesome to look at very cool car. The evap line is a vacuum source on the intake needs to be capped. With those rails will need return line back to tank the factory regulator is on the rail. Newer rails only have one inlet where the c5 filter/reg comes in play. Feel free to give us a call I can help you setup a system for your needs.
#5
Sounds good! Thank you for your help!
I have one other questions you may be able to help me with.. Beings the car is a non-power steering car, I'd like to keep it that way for now. Is there an idler pulley I can replace my PS pump with, just run the pump empty, bypass it? I have never really found an answer. I don't necessarily want to buy an entire new system as I am doing this on a really tight budget, just want to know the best way or most cost effective way.
The car has been sitting in the dirt for 30 years in ND, remarkably the floors are solid and there is VERY little rust, the wiring on the interior looks brand new, and all the glass is good minus the windshield. The car has really surprised me by how well it has aged!
I have one other questions you may be able to help me with.. Beings the car is a non-power steering car, I'd like to keep it that way for now. Is there an idler pulley I can replace my PS pump with, just run the pump empty, bypass it? I have never really found an answer. I don't necessarily want to buy an entire new system as I am doing this on a really tight budget, just want to know the best way or most cost effective way.
The car has been sitting in the dirt for 30 years in ND, remarkably the floors are solid and there is VERY little rust, the wiring on the interior looks brand new, and all the glass is good minus the windshield. The car has really surprised me by how well it has aged!
#6
Sounds good! Thank you for your help!
I have one other questions you may be able to help me with.. Beings the car is a non-power steering car, I'd like to keep it that way for now. Is there an idler pulley I can replace my PS pump with, just run the pump empty, bypass it? I have never really found an answer. I don't necessarily want to buy an entire new system as I am doing this on a really tight budget, just want to know the best way or most cost effective way.
The car has been sitting in the dirt for 30 years in ND, remarkably the floors are solid and there is VERY little rust, the wiring on the interior looks brand new, and all the glass is good minus the windshield. The car has really surprised me by how well it has aged!
I have one other questions you may be able to help me with.. Beings the car is a non-power steering car, I'd like to keep it that way for now. Is there an idler pulley I can replace my PS pump with, just run the pump empty, bypass it? I have never really found an answer. I don't necessarily want to buy an entire new system as I am doing this on a really tight budget, just want to know the best way or most cost effective way.
The car has been sitting in the dirt for 30 years in ND, remarkably the floors are solid and there is VERY little rust, the wiring on the interior looks brand new, and all the glass is good minus the windshield. The car has really surprised me by how well it has aged!