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Here are a few more photos, like I mentioned that I would post.
This photo shows why I had to re-route the heater hoses. The heater hose nipples, would have been right in to the engine mount area of the body.
This photo shows the hot side radiator line route out of the water pump and into the Porsche hard lines. Also, shows the PS pump mounting and clearance on the body.
I also managed to get the brake calipers & rotor hats re-painted and the front tires and wheels installed. The 19's fill the wheel wells much better then the 18's!!!
I have been way to busy at work lately, but have managed to keep pressing forward. Kind of been one of those one step forward and two back, since I got the engine in the car. Little things that I had measured for and planned have been issues. I pretty much had to re-do the heater hose and expansion tank plumbing. I think I have had the water pump in and out of the car 10 times!!! I managed to screw up the threads on one of my -10 heater hose connections and had to order a 7/8" -14 dia to re-thread the nipple. Otherwise I would have been pulling the engine out to fix the AN nipple. The following photo's are of the thermostat housing that I had Jason from Alper Motorsports build. We took a billet swivel housing and shortened it by about 2.5".
I will look to get some photo's posted of the re-plumbed cooling piping.
Subbed and looking forward to seeing future updates. I will be starting a build early next year and doing my research now. Not my 1st LS Porsche but my 1st 996.
It has been a while since I last updated things. Mainly because I have not really done much, it has been super hot and I have had to many other things going on around the house. I have about another 3 weeks of work on my house hold projects and should be able to finish the car up. I just have the exhaust, air intake, PS lines and AC lines to finish. I have all the parts, just need to wait for the temp to drop and my other projects to get finished.
Here are a few photos of the final cooling line plumbing, Once I get back working on things. I will update the with more photos.
Thanks for the update and like the way you re-plumbed the cooling piping through the bottom to keep the engine compartment looking clean. Thinking you may want to go with a hard pipe for the one closest to the power steering, looks like it will be close to the belt but hard to tell from the picture the clearance.
BTW, I may have missed it in earlier post but do you have the part#'s for the Alper Motorsports accessory brackets you used and part# for the belts? I am planning my project soon and this would take a lot of guess work out and give some business to Jason.
I used a LS3 Corvette water pump, with 3/4" spacers. F body balancer, Alt bracket and AC bracket. The idler bracket and pulley is Jason's Ultimate 3 Bolt Tensioner Y-body Bolts to the cylinder head and water pump , I had to use 1/4" spacers to get the belt to line up. Beings the LS1/LS2 Water Pump mounts the idler different then the LS3. The PS pump bracket is Apler's LS3 bracket, being the bracket sits over the engine mount. I live just a couple miles from Jason, and have used his mill and lathe to build most of my own parts. Just PM me and I will share my Phone number, I will answer any questions that you may have.
It has been awhile since I last updated the build. I have had to many other things going on to get back to finishing this project. But, my schedule has opened up and I have decided to tackle the airbox. Most builds, even Renegade's just put a cobra head 90 degree bend and pull heat soaked air from the engine compartment. I did not want to follow that path and have been brain storming and researching how the Porsche Cup Cars configure their airbox. To maximize cold air intake!!!
First step cut most of the hood out!!!!
The second step build a cardboard mockup airbox, that fits in the space and allows for the uses of large enough flat panel air filters to allow the LS2 to breath (114 square inches). Most likely will run three smaller filters to get the area. One also has to consider the air flow area to the throttle body and a mounting area for the MAF. I am getting close, the next step will be to do a little more cutting on the hood and transfer the cardboard mockup to 0.063 aluminum!!! This design all fits under the FRP hood grate and wing, which allows for cold air to be directed into the filters.
It will be placed about 3 inches from the throttle body and I will have the tuner make things work. My friend that builds sand cars has done the same thing on several of his sand cars. They commonly have a "Y" pipe out of the TB to run two air filter and the only place to mount the MAF is right before the "Y" at the TB.
Hope this finally came together. I just picked up a 00 c2 that will be getting the treatment over the winter. I will also be rebuilding the transmission so I hope that doesn't create a shitstorm for me
I wanted to give an update and reassure you that the fans are working properly with the wiring setup we talked about. I don't know who you have tuning your E38 computer, but I have HP tuners and I set the fans to "Discrete" and have my low speed fans come on at 200F and the high speed comes on at 230F. Everything is working.
Can you clarify your routing. I have my big drivers side coolant hose is my hot side.. coolant out of the engine heads down the drivers side pipe to the radiators and comes back to my electric pump which I have on the passengers side (cold) side. Do you have yours set up going the other way around?
Thanks for posting the info on the third radiator. Did you have to make any brackets to get it to mount up?
Can you clarify your routing. I have my big drivers side coolant hose is my hot side.. coolant out of the engine heads down the drivers side pipe to the radiators and comes back to my electric pump which I have on the passengers side (cold) side. Do you have yours set up going the other way around?
I run mine the other way around, same does Renegade (at least of the pictures they sent me) - firefly runs the same way as you.
08-10-2015, 11:13 AM
