Mating 4L80E to Block
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 204
Likes: 8
From: Houston
Mating 4L80E to Block Well tonight has been a night of you tube videos. Tomorrow I am going to try my hand at putting the transmission the transmission to the block. I think I have a good ideal on how to properly install the torque converter onto the transmission. I will be looking for the double clunk.
Now is there anything that I need to know on securing the flexplate to the motor? I looked up the torque specs on ls1howto. This is what I found:
Engine Flywheel Bolts (First Pass)15 lb ft
Engine Flywheel Bolts (Second Pass)37 lb ft
Engine Flywheel Bolts (Final Pass)74 lb ft
Then I mate the Transmission to the block using the dowel pins. Then attach the flexplate to the torque converter. Is there anything else I am missing? Is there a spacer that is involved? I have read some posts that mention a spacer, but it has not been really clear.
Thanks for the help.
Now is there anything that I need to know on securing the flexplate to the motor? I looked up the torque specs on ls1howto. This is what I found:
Engine Flywheel Bolts (First Pass)15 lb ft
Engine Flywheel Bolts (Second Pass)37 lb ft
Engine Flywheel Bolts (Final Pass)74 lb ft
Then I mate the Transmission to the block using the dowel pins. Then attach the flexplate to the torque converter. Is there anything else I am missing? Is there a spacer that is involved? I have read some posts that mention a spacer, but it has not been really clear.
Thanks for the help.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, Ga
The spacer is predicated upon the engine year. As I recall only the real early ones use it. I a sure someone else will verify that.
As far as the converter, make sure you have at least 1 - 2 quarts of fluid in it before you install to prevent damage. You should feel a total of 3 engagement steps of the converter. The body of the converter should nearly hit the front pump when fully seated. The plan is to then pull the converter toward the flexplate at least 1/4" but not so fat as to lose index to the pump. If necessary use spacers at the converter to flexplate lugs to get proper index. Headbolt washers make good spacers since they are hardened machined washers of very consistent thickness so the flexplate does not become distorted.
As far as the converter, make sure you have at least 1 - 2 quarts of fluid in it before you install to prevent damage. You should feel a total of 3 engagement steps of the converter. The body of the converter should nearly hit the front pump when fully seated. The plan is to then pull the converter toward the flexplate at least 1/4" but not so fat as to lose index to the pump. If necessary use spacers at the converter to flexplate lugs to get proper index. Headbolt washers make good spacers since they are hardened machined washers of very consistent thickness so the flexplate does not become distorted.
What engine are you mating it to? If you have a 4l80e flexplate, it will be flat and needs the spacer to hold the snout of the converter. It will also have six holes for the torque converter bolts.
I put a Circle D stall in my 6.0/4l80e and found out later that they use three bolts instead of six and the pattern was like a 4l60e. I had the fun of splitting the engine and trans in the frame to swap flywheels. Wish they would have told me that when I bought it! 
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Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
My circle D is a 6 bolt converter. You need to specify when you order it otherwise they assume its going behind an LS car that's being upgraded from a 60e and they set them up to be 3 bolt.
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