1968 Impala Turbo LY6/4L80e Swap - 798 RWHP @ 17 PSI
02-07-2016, 07:48 AM
#321
The new Dewitt's radiator came in. Even though I sent my old radiator as a template you never know what the end result will be. I am happy to say it was scenario 3 from the post above. The core width was critical since my intercooler inlet/outlet are not movable. The new rad is exact in every dimension and turned out great. Too bad most people won't even notice it with the black paint.
A good pic showing the weld quality.
Old core versus new core.
A good pic showing the weld quality.
Old core versus new core.
02-07-2016, 07:57 AM
#322
To compliment the brake upgrade I figured it was time to replace the rubber strut rod bushing with something a little more up to date. I found out Ridetech uses the same diameter bearing as the stock 3/4 strut rod so I ordered the bearing kit which they send with their Strongarm lower arm kits. This will prevent alignment changes under heavy braking. I was a bit disappointed that both plates required a significant amount of grinding/shaping to fit the stock frame pocket. What I thought would be 30 minutes per side ended up closer to 2 hours per side. I always hate grinding on such pretty looking machined parts but these will never be noticed anyways.
02-21-2016, 07:15 PM
#331
The new radiator is installed. Pretty straight forward but required some trimming of the fan shroud and radiator hoses. I put some coolant in and it's not leaking so that's a win. I started work on plumbing the new master cylinder but a combination of the wrong fittings and the giant piece of **** rental flare tool from Advance Auto netted me junk brake lines. I have the proper fittings on the way and I'll have to figure out were to get a decent flaring tool. I hate to buy one since I rarely use it.
I also got the turbo back home. I figured out that if you loosen the turbine housing/center section v-band you can carefully remove the compressor/center section without unbolting the turbine housing. This makes the assembly much lighter and it's way easier than lining up the base gasket and getting 4 bolts started. Install just requires lining the drain hose up and tightening one v-band.
I hope to start it next week to bleed the cooling system and change the oil. I just need to hear it run because I'm getting burnt out. The thought of selling has come across my mind a few times.
I also got the turbo back home. I figured out that if you loosen the turbine housing/center section v-band you can carefully remove the compressor/center section without unbolting the turbine housing. This makes the assembly much lighter and it's way easier than lining up the base gasket and getting 4 bolts started. Install just requires lining the drain hose up and tightening one v-band.
I hope to start it next week to bleed the cooling system and change the oil. I just need to hear it run because I'm getting burnt out. The thought of selling has come across my mind a few times.
02-22-2016, 04:03 PM
#332
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Nooooo don"t sell you will regret it!!!!!!
the new radiator is installed. Pretty straight forward but required some trimming of the fan shroud and radiator hoses. I put some coolant in and it's not leaking so that's a win. I started work on plumbing the new master cylinder but a combination of the wrong fittings and the giant piece of **** rental flare tool from advance auto netted me junk brake lines. I have the proper fittings on the way and i'll have to figure out were to get a decent flaring tool. I hate to buy one since i rarely use it.
I also got the turbo back home. I figured out that if you loosen the turbine housing/center section v-band you can carefully remove the compressor/center section without unbolting the turbine housing. This makes the assembly much lighter and it's way easier than lining up the base gasket and getting 4 bolts started. Install just requires lining the drain hose up and tightening one v-band.
I hope to start it next week to bleed the cooling system and change the oil. I just need to hear it run because i'm getting burnt out. The thought of selling has come across my mind a few times.
I also got the turbo back home. I figured out that if you loosen the turbine housing/center section v-band you can carefully remove the compressor/center section without unbolting the turbine housing. This makes the assembly much lighter and it's way easier than lining up the base gasket and getting 4 bolts started. Install just requires lining the drain hose up and tightening one v-band.
I hope to start it next week to bleed the cooling system and change the oil. I just need to hear it run because i'm getting burnt out. The thought of selling has come across my mind a few times.
02-23-2016, 04:45 PM
#333
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just checked out your build looks great . don't sell it you will regret not getting to enjoy what you have created! get out this spring and drive it and you will want to drive it all the time! your car is lighter than my 63 but bigger cars don't get so squirrley and that is a good thing with that much power!
02-28-2016, 03:08 PM
#334
This weekends progress wasn't exactly fun but things went together without too much of a hiccup.
I started the car to top it off. Good news is no coolant leaks and the new radiator seems to be doing it's job more efficiently. With the old rad, it would warm up and both fans would come on and it would keep it right around 200 degrees. I was OK with it at first since it would not creep too much farther. In similar ambient temperature, the DeWitt's goes up to 181 degrees and the first fan kicks on and it drops back to 178 and turns off. We should be good to go for the summer.
The brake plumbing has been a bit annoying without proper tools. Good thing is I found one of my dads old tools and jackpot, a barely used Imperial Eastman flaring bar. I rented a tool from Autozone and the dies worked great with the Imperial bar. 4 for 4 on the flares this weekend and I remembered to put all the nuts on the tube first!!! I was able to plumb the rear which I wish was more crisp in the bends but my cheapo bender was all I had. The proportioning valve was mounted along the frame rail through a floor stiffening brace. The will give me a good mounting point and the **** is adjustable from the drivers seat, I just have to lean out of the door to make changes.
The panhard bar also had some interference issues when I installed the rearend girdle in the fall. The quick fix was spacing the rear end mount bolt with washers to give enough clearance. I found that the washers moved the mount away from the bracket and increased the leverage causing flex. This would allow the rearend to move around enough to get the tires to rub occasionally. I notched the bar and shaved down the preload bolt to get enough room.
I started the car to top it off. Good news is no coolant leaks and the new radiator seems to be doing it's job more efficiently. With the old rad, it would warm up and both fans would come on and it would keep it right around 200 degrees. I was OK with it at first since it would not creep too much farther. In similar ambient temperature, the DeWitt's goes up to 181 degrees and the first fan kicks on and it drops back to 178 and turns off. We should be good to go for the summer.
The brake plumbing has been a bit annoying without proper tools. Good thing is I found one of my dads old tools and jackpot, a barely used Imperial Eastman flaring bar. I rented a tool from Autozone and the dies worked great with the Imperial bar. 4 for 4 on the flares this weekend and I remembered to put all the nuts on the tube first!!! I was able to plumb the rear which I wish was more crisp in the bends but my cheapo bender was all I had. The proportioning valve was mounted along the frame rail through a floor stiffening brace. The will give me a good mounting point and the **** is adjustable from the drivers seat, I just have to lean out of the door to make changes.
The panhard bar also had some interference issues when I installed the rearend girdle in the fall. The quick fix was spacing the rear end mount bolt with washers to give enough clearance. I found that the washers moved the mount away from the bracket and increased the leverage causing flex. This would allow the rearend to move around enough to get the tires to rub occasionally. I notched the bar and shaved down the preload bolt to get enough room.
03-04-2016, 08:48 PM
#335
The brake plumbing was finalized. The CPP adapter fittings worked perfect on the master and I welded up a bracket to hold the proportioning valve. I will attempt to bleed them this weekend.
I also finished up wiring the 2 step switch. It can be activated by either ground or +12v. Since the horn is activated by grounding the relay on the wheel, I spliced into the harness and installed a SPDT switch to use the horn button to activate the 2 step.
I also finished up wiring the 2 step switch. It can be activated by either ground or +12v. Since the horn is activated by grounding the relay on the wheel, I spliced into the harness and installed a SPDT switch to use the horn button to activate the 2 step.
03-11-2016, 04:23 PM
#339
I am taking full advantage of the weather and re-shaking the car down. The streets are pretty dirty but the salt is gone.
I super happy to report the converter lockup is functioning now. It lugs smoothly around 1400 RPM at 50 MPH.
The radiator is helping but still get a little warm sitting. Once moving it drops to the upper 170's but sitting both fans will come on and it will stop around 195. Fingers crossed that is stays there in the summer.
Brakes are stinky as to be expected. I still have to bed them in but I can tell there is plenty of power and they modulate very nicely. I will probably bleed them one more time before the season starts.
It felt great to get back out though. On 9 lbs it blows the tires off at 30 on cold dirty roads.
I super happy to report the converter lockup is functioning now. It lugs smoothly around 1400 RPM at 50 MPH.
The radiator is helping but still get a little warm sitting. Once moving it drops to the upper 170's but sitting both fans will come on and it will stop around 195. Fingers crossed that is stays there in the summer.
Brakes are stinky as to be expected. I still have to bed them in but I can tell there is plenty of power and they modulate very nicely. I will probably bleed them one more time before the season starts.
It felt great to get back out though. On 9 lbs it blows the tires off at 30 on cold dirty roads.
03-19-2016, 08:51 AM
#340
I found a 15" rim that would work with the Baer brakes. I'm not a huge fan of the Racestar Industries style but the barrel is designed for larger disk brakes and does not taper like many of the Weld and Centerline 15" styles that have been around forever. On an 8" rim the 275 Pro barely fits.
