IMPALAMAN1

Haha. I hear ya. Hard part is the ash tray and dash plastic and chrome trim piece. I think I paid more for the ashtray and ashtray door than I did for the 8track pieces

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I really dig this build. I have wanted to do a 70 Impala for a long time with a mild turbo engine and a 4l80e...

Andrew

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Yep, these one year Impala parts are tough. One thing I did not anticipate when I purchased the car. It's still hard to believe you cannot get full quarter for these.

Thanks man! Mean a lot because of what you have built in your garage. I have followed and enjoyed both your builds and even picked up on the way you logged and photographed them. You have a pony and an intermediate, time for a barge

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Things are still moving along. Lots of little stuff and I started working on the exhaust. That ended quickly as 4" V-band from ebay had the locknut sieze on the t-bolt. It was not even tight. I emailed the seller and he claimed there was nothing wrong and I must use a tool since it's a locknut. Thanks for the advice. So I gave it a shot with the impact and snapped the bolt. Stainless can be a bitch. There is literally no sign of galling or broke threads, its just stuck.

I did a bunch on non picture worthy stuff. Got the electric speedo drive working. It's fairly quite and seems easy to use. I think it will work perfect.

The tach converter is sending the calibration signal and the tach works, but I don't think I have a signal. I played with the calibration but I think since the ECM came from a van with no tach, my guess is my tuner forgot to turn it on.

The wideband is also up and running. Map sensor checks out and the O2 sensor calibration went smoothly.

I also tested pump module 2. It will be activated at 2 PSI via a Hobbs switch so I will have to wait until I boost check it to confirm that it's working properly. I went directly to ground and it started priming right away.

One system I am not sure how to test is the MAP reference fuel pressure rise. It's wired directly to the MAP sensor and has a 1:1 rise. I'm wondering if I pressurize the system for a boost leak check I will see subsequent rise during the initial prime before the engine runs. If not I don't know how else to test it without getting the motor into boost. I'll probably call Vaporworx and pick Carl's brain before I mess with it.

I started on the cold side. I can't say enough good about Sound Performance in Bensenville IL. They are really great to have close for turbo fab stuff. The prices very fair and he even cut this and bead rolled it while I waited. I am having Elliot final tig weld the downpipe and crossover so I can finish up the exhaust.



Due to the bottom hose location, I need the t-stat housing to face down. I went with a good ole Mr. Gasket product with bolt holes that aren't spaced far enough apart. How they effed that up I don't know. A couple drill bit sizes later it goes on fine.



I had to extend the shifter linkage rod a few inches. All the detents and shift indicator positions lined up perfect. I thought for sure I would have to mess with them more.



The brakes are fully bled and ready to go. I feel like I am always reading about bleeding nightmares and I always prepare my self for them. They never seem to happen though. I installed a new full length line and braided flex line to the rear end. A few minutes on each wheel with the Mityvac to get fluid down then the wife helped pump for about 10 minutes and done. I just hope my hydroboost works.



The catch can is plumbed with -10an and I don't really like how it looks in the engine bay but there is really no good way to do it. I hope to have enough ventilation with the 2 -10 hoses.



The rear wheels on to get them the hell out of my way! I hope they stay on.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I see no reason why you can't do that. Just keep in mind that the fuel prime is only 5 seconds. So I would pressurize the system, turn the key on, and look at your MAP and fuel pressure readings. Hold the intake system at roughly 15psi and you should have 200 kPa on the MAP and base + 15 psi in the fuel system.

Why aren't you going with a Holley Dominator?

Andrew

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for conformation.

As for the Dominator, I was trying to keep cost down since there has been so much to purchase. In the end I probably should have gone that route. I don't think most understand the cost associated with this type of build. I did massive research to get good deals on every part and the cost has still been huge. If I had to pay a shop to install this it would not have been able to do it. I figure at least a 100 hrs. Way more time invested on my end though.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

You're right about cost. People have no idea how expensive it can be to do a project in a very clean way like you have done. On my Cougar I probably spent $1000 on various terminals, connectors, wire, wiring tools, and quality heat shrink tubing. To get my engine looking like I wanted, there was media blasting and anodizing. The list of little things goes on and on...

If I ever sell the Cougar I will be looking for an Impala or similar barge...LOL

Andrew

alocker

iTrader: (10)

For once in this project I feel that the extra effort is paying off. With the intercooler mounted behind the core support I have one of the shortest A2A cold sides ever. I anticipated several bends and welds but after playing around with it a bit I got it with one 90 bend.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

That looks good. Will you anodize or paint the cold side pipe?

Andrew

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Not sure yet. Since I want to get it tuned before winter I am waiting to get some stuff ceramic and powder coated like the hot side. I will probably just go satin black for now and see how I feel about it over the winter and make a decision then.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Wrinkle black would look good, so would plastidip, but not as durable.

Andrew

alocker

iTrader: (10)

I thought about the wrinkle and the extra texture would look good but isn't it a pain to keep clean? Any issues with your wrinkle now that you have some miles on it? (that sounds really bad taken out of context)

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The only part that I painted wrinkle black was my water pump. The Holley valve covers has a much softer, satin black finish.

I really don't see an issue with keeping it clean, just use a gentle degreaser and a water hose. LOL

Andrew

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Nothing picture worthy today but I did fill the cooling and power steering/brake system and ran the car up to temp for the first time. NO LEAKS! Well, a small petcock drip but that's it. A tip for anyone installing any type of flare fitting. First oil the fitting, then tighten about 80 percent. Back it off once then fully tighten. All of my PS and AN connections where sealed from the start.

The fans kicked on and brought the coolant temp down. Not fast but I assume there are still some air pockets to work out but the car did not overheat which is a good first step. I also got some throttle response. I was worried with the initial starts because if it touched the pedal it would die immediately. The tuner loaded a file just to get the car running and he said it's probably lean. He was right, AFR at idle when first fired up is in the 18-21 range. As soon as the motor gets some heat into it it comes down to around 15 but then my throttle starts to work and that makes me happy. It idles nicely around 750 RPM. The speedo is also working but needs to be calibrated.

The real list has gotten pretty short I am plan to make a tuning appointment at Late Model Throttle next week to get in the first week of October.

Whats left:
-Pedal bracket
-Merge 4" down pipe to 2.5" X-pipe exhaust-UGHH!
-Plumb wastegate and BOV
-Wire CEL
-Double check fasteners
-Install hood
-Drive

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Great job. What type of vacuum block are you going to use for turbo, wastegate and fpr?

alocker

iTrader: (10)

I am using a Vibrant block that you can see next to the booster. No FPR BTW. PWM FTW.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Tackled the pedal bracket. Some might think it was a waste of time keeping the floor pedal. To reiterate, I kept it for 2 reasons. First, I wanted to keep the factory pedal. Second, I feel the one drawback of DBW is the springy pedal. They work great for slow daily drivers like my 2012 Camry but for a performance car I am not a huge fan. My LY6 Chevelle had one that was very touchy and going over bumps could cause an unintended throttle change. Much like a cable, this pedal has slight friction to act as a damper. It's still light and smooth but to you have to overcome that slightly higher static friction to get it moving. So here goes.

.160 stock from McMaster.



Since finding a brake to make this bend might take a few days I just slotted it and bent it.



I put a few welds to keep it at the desired angle.




I used 2 of the power brake booster studs to mount it.



After about 3 hours of making adjustments, I was able to start finish welding.



I don't want any movement so I beefed it up a bit.




Ready for paint. I will post a pic of it installed tomorrow when it's dry.

casias

iTrader: (1)

That is some THICK steel for the throttle assembly. You can really get on that bitch!

Jimbo1367

ALOCKER,
Are you going to keep alot of the hose elbows on the cold side? Did you go this route vs. alum. because of the tight radius' needed?

Your build thread has become a very pleasant surprise to me. I really dig when builds have a higher attention to detail than some of thse other builds I see go on here.

As always...... great work !!!

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Yep, it ain't moving anywhere. Actually the firewall is flexing slightly but you don't feel it in the pedal at all. While not pretty or light it works.

Thanks man! I am keeping the elbows due to tight radius. There is some controversy about using them but my internet and real world research has shown at my boost level they will be fine. All tubes have beads rolled which is the key. I will have a few pics of it shortly.