I've owned my 1977 Chevrolet C10 Bonanza single cab short bed for about a year now and after tackling SOME issues (scary wiring, chopped up interior and a not so cooperative external electric fuel pump setup) I've decided to take on the, somewhat requisite, LS swap into "Goliath" as my friend named it. I got a junkyard 5.3 from a Tahoe (DBC) harness, ECU, alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor and I'm mating it to a Monster Transmissions built 700r4. Got a nice dual electric fan setup from a 2002 Lincoln Continental, throttle cable from a 2001 Tahoe. I'm planning to use the Dirty Dingo slider motor mounts and the Summit Racing flywheel adapter. A friend sold me a pair of LS3 exhaust manifolds to hopefully clear the frame. I'm going to go about the LT1swap.com wiring info to setup my harness.

I'll post pics for anyone interested to follow the progress as well as open the door to any input, suggestions and advice you might have. This should be an interesting ride...

Also here's a parts list of items I still need to buy in case anyone has parts laying around that they need to sell:

1987 C10 fuel sending unit (either side tank is fine)
Walbro 255 electric fuel pump (or equivalent)
4.8, 5.3 or 6.0 starter
Dirty Dingo Sliding Motor mounts (or equivalent)
Flywheel adapter for LS to 700r4

 

got pics? Let's see this beast.

 

Im getting ready to do my 88 square body 4 door. I dont think you need to by slider mounts. I bought mounts on ebay $65 that have ears welded on that fit on stock sbc. They have slotted areas on to where you can move motor foward/backward. I already have an efi suburban tank under it so im changing pump ou for more pressue one. Im taking out tbi 350 to put in 5.3/4L60E.

 

Sorry I was trying to post them from my phone but it wasn't working. I'm uploading them now. Let me know what you think!

 

Thanks for the heads up! Do you have a link for those mounts? Maybe even a part number? The Suburban tank sits in the rear between the frame rails right?

 

The donor

 

"Goliath" aka "DeathTrap"

 

Getting it stripped down and cleaned up...

 

Junkyard dual fan setup from a 2002 Lincoln Continental. I literally almost stepped on it just laying in the aisle while searching for a good setup, poked around a bit and found the car that it came from and got the relay module and cut the harnesses and tested the fans. They work great!

 

Nice swap! I'm doing a similar one right now. I'm curious to see how the LS3 manifolds fit.

 

I'd buy this new, used is gonna be typically a crusty/rusty pos.

Spectra number for pass: FG05N Driver: FG05M

Generally in $100 range. I modified mine to accept a -6 return bulk head, and -8 feed. Running the big Walbro 400 pump (boosted application)

 

suburban tank fits in rear between rearend and bumper. But gas filler is on passenger side. I welded in the crossmembers from suburban donor as they have the straps that hold up tank. My truck is all from parts wasnt a complete truck shortened.
seller on ebay screen name metaltekmfg

 

I just did a similar swap into a 85 GMC.

Here is a link to the fuel sender/pump mods to a 1987 GM truck sender complete with part numbers...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651699

You will enjoy this swap...

 

Thanks for checking it out man. I should be dropping it in soon! I'll post pics obviously.

Thanks man. Right after I read this I found an FG05M on eBay for $60 brand new, ordered it immediately!

Thank you sir! Your project looks like it will be a lot of fun and very unique. I will definitely be following!

Thank you so much for that link aggie. I've been searching high and low for this info. I owe all of you guys beers once I take this monster road trippin'.

 

I came up on more and more things I needed to order so as they slowly trickled in. I went ahead and sorted the wiring harness (which I'm reluctant to show the rat's nest I made in the process). I have all sensors accounted for, fan control pins inserted. If anyone can chime in though on this dilemma, as I recall the fan control is through the relay(s) that is fused to the new fuse block that I will assemble and the relay(s) are grounded through the control circuits through the PCM correct? Furthermore the dual fan assembly that I came across (which looks like it will be right at home in the C10) runs both fans simultaneously at high or low speed with each on its own relay. I plan to fuse the 12 volt power supply to the fans exactly how they were in the 2002 Lincoln Continental that they came from with a 60A maxi fuse for the high speed and a 30A maxi fuse for the low speed. Is this overkill? The reason I ask is because I believe that the PCM (GM) is designed to kick on the second fan on during A/C request but it won't shut down the main fan signal. The way the fans are setup is that they share a ground but separate 12v supply at the connector and both relays would be engaged at the same time during the main fan and A/C request, is that too much going through one ground? To confuse things a little more, I'm planning to run A/C soon after the engine swap is complete and I'm assuming it's best to use the LS PCM and connectors to control the A/C rather than just the stock C10 controls alone.

 

I've never been a "good kid" by any stretch of the imagination so Santa only shows up when I pay him to.

 

60A is not overkill on those Ford fans. Stock GM fan control can't turn on just one fan - they are single speed motors either connected in series (low speed) or in parallel (high speed).

The stock GM fan control is progressive, eg low fan comes on, stays on when high is commanded. It looks like Ford is independent eg low fan is turned off when high speed is turned on. To adapt you need to use the high speed fan request to interrupt the low speed relay.

 

Thanks for that man, I was thinking maybe a "normally closed" relay on the low fan command signal from the ECM that's opened via the command signal from the high fan wire from the ECM. So basically a three relay setup.

 

Here are a few pictures of how I set up my fuel system, thanks to the link from aggie91. Pretty straightforward and I set it up with the rails to test for pressure from the pump and any leaks at the fittings... no problems and it looks clean. I'll list part numbers in the morning. I've been using autoplicity.com for a lot of parts. I got all of my braided fuel line, fittings and fuel filter (all Russell brand, except for one Earl's brand fitting) and spent roughly $200 including $30 in shipping... it would have been lower shipping but I split the order in two to use Visa gift card I had lying around. Also I used the OE style quick connect fittings at the rail instead of the threaded retainer option just in case something happens on the road those little plastic clips are easier to remove without tools and easy to find locally if broken or lost for some reason (I have a ton of 'em from back when I was a tech).

 

Wow!! I love these trucks!! Especially the 73-79 models.