salon

iTrader: (2)

Said the hell with it. Bought the 302-1 holley pan. Fits fantastic! But alas, I am an idiot. My sliders are already as far forward as possible, so I basically bought a pan for ground clearance. Which is fine. But my mini starter was unnecessary, but makes a whole lot more room for exhaust. Got my water pump installed to. Bought a corvette pump, cut the pulley off and pressed my factory truck pulley back on. Looks like it'll work like a champion.

76larkman

what wiring are you using?

salon

iTrader: (2)

I have the full harness and ecm from the Silverado doner. Might try and follow the lt1swap write up on making it stand alone. Might send it off somewhere and have it redone since it'll need plugs changed for the ls6 injectors....

Kind of undecided at the moment. I'll probably get the cross member for the transmission done first. Then send off my parts for a drive shaft. But that's a whole nother dilemma.

The salon is currently set up with the original 7.5". And I happen to have a few 8.8" ford's floating around because I like to stockpile part's... so I kinda wonder if I shouldn't just say **** it and just do the 8.8 swap now vs. having to change a drive shaft again later...

Oh decisions...

LsxCutty

That's gonna be a bad *** sleeper! You gonna leave the 8.8" 4 lug? I've been debating an 8.8" rear end myself.

76larkman

take the time now for rear. swap in ranger axles gets you 5 lug wheels. or just drill what you have. this way 1 time money on shaft. You can do wiring yourself. Ive done 2 truck harness 1 cable 1 DBW. Ended up with 3/4 walmart sack of wire out of it. just keep taped up at junction points it goes fairly easy. most have a ground you come back to snip out after taking power wire out of pcm plug.

salon

iTrader: (2)

I have a few newer 8.8's out of crown vic cop cars. Factory posi's and disc brakes. The small ford 5 lug pattern. 5 on 4.5.

I recall reading somewhere that someone makes a direct swap kit with all the 4 link bars to install a 8.8 without having to cut and weld brackets on. But either way. I have a huge shop full of tools to work with.

76larkman

im jelous of that shop i see in pics. use some dual pattern wheels you be ok. harness is only hard if needing to move pcm connectors elsewhere. I did my buick skylark putting pcm in car. lengthened driver side wires & shortened pass side cut/heat shrinck/soldering.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

If you are using the steam lines off an early engine that go to all four corners, you can take a dremel and clearance the ribs on the underside of the LS6 intake and they will clear. Or you could just get the newer style ont that just goes to the front two and the block offs for the rear two.

Also, just curious, but why did you get a Corvette waterpump and put the truck pully on it?

kj598bbc

I think you're gonna have a lot less hassle with a foxbody 8.8, don't remember the vendor but a few make upper control arms to swap an 8.8 into a g-body. That Crown Vic rear is a lot wider.

salon

iTrader: (2)

I bought the vette pump due to clearance issues with the throttle body. Regardless of which truck style pump I went with the cable driven throttle body hit the neck. The shafts are the same length.

So rather than spend money on spacers to make the belt line up with my truck accessories, I put the truck pulley in the correct location on the new pump. I'll snap some pics tonight.

salon

iTrader: (2)

Got the water pump solved. Hacked up some coolant lines and welded up 2 blocks for the rear ports. So steam vent is solved.

jimmyg

2010 camaro pump uses truck spacing and would have worked with out spacers

salon

iTrader: (2)

Well that would've been nice to have known... oh well... I still solved the problem. Speaking of... scored some BBK f body long tubes. So I'll be making those fit once I put my starter back on.

408Fairmont

Cool project, I have been digging those saloon cutlas' lately.

salon

iTrader: (2)

Tonight hopefully I can get the intake torqued down and the alternator and p/s pump back on. Then it's cross member fest 2015

salon

iTrader: (2)

Less than 2 hours and I'll be putting on a whole pile of parts that showed up. Hopefully more pics tonight/tmrw.

76larkman

Cool we will be looking in on you. Hopefully stuff goes well.

salon

iTrader: (2)

Update from sunday. Transmission cross member is in and done. Driver side header is on. Had to do a little clearancing. Pass side is next so I can get my Damm dipstick in. Found a fox body 8.8 for $75 locally.

salon

iTrader: (2)

Oh, and the starter is on. Along with a whole bunch of other little odds and ends. I'm really debating on just biting the bullet and sending off my harness to a guy in Kansas to have him go through it and swap injector plugs. I really REALLY dislike wiring.

76larkman

do the wiring yourself it not hard. get a razor blde, snips, tape to keep bundled, go for it using LT1Swap.com list print off. pcm connectors are numbered. just do 1 plug at a time. you will figure out that a colored wire goes from pcm connector to sensor plug then a ground comes back to bundled grounds in harness. oil pressure, ac plug, iac on top intake goes away, 2 oxygen sensors go away, low oil indicator on oil pan goes away, big purple to starter goes away. you can tie all the injectors on each side into 1 to tidy up then tie both sides together on 10 amp ignition fuse key run. coils go onto 10 amp fuse ignition key on run position. wire to brake switch, 2 orange battery power pcm, 2 pink pcm on 10 amp ignition/key run as well, and wire fuel pump out to relay then back to pump on 10 amp fuse with key run.