180 at idle, 210 driving.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
I thought the same thing, so I made one of these.....
http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_Cooling_LSI-tee.html
Its doing the same thing, although I do get air out of the fitting whenever I open it
Martin
http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_Cooling_LSI-tee.html
Its doing the same thing, although I do get air out of the fitting whenever I open it
Martin
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
The symptoms are telling me head gasket problem, or water pump rotation.
I have done compression and leak down tests and they both show good, as well as the HG sniffer test which made the liquid turn green.
I have also checked belt diagrams for the Escalade water pump I have, and they atch what I have.
I have done compression and leak down tests and they both show good, as well as the HG sniffer test which made the liquid turn green.
I have also checked belt diagrams for the Escalade water pump I have, and they atch what I have.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 276
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
Crude but you get the idea..... Disregard the numbers under the picture. They are for the next run of windmill towers I'll be loading.....lol
Did I (hopefully) screw up the belt routing?
Motor is a 2001 LQ4, water pump is from a LQ9 Escalade.
Martin
Did I (hopefully) screw up the belt routing?
Motor is a 2001 LQ4, water pump is from a LQ9 Escalade.
Martin
Ok. So the steam vents from the front of the head are going to that fitting in the return to the radiator right?
Earlier you said that you had them vented to the expansion tank, which would cause the coolant system to never pressurize properly. This will result in the coolant steaming off and in turn reduce the efficiency of the radiator.
Earlier you said that you had them vented to the expansion tank, which would cause the coolant system to never pressurize properly. This will result in the coolant steaming off and in turn reduce the efficiency of the radiator.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
Ok. So the steam vents from the front of the head are going to that fitting in the return to the radiator right?
Earlier you said that you had them vented to the expansion tank, which would cause the coolant system to never pressurize properly. This will result in the coolant steaming off and in turn reduce the efficiency of the radiator.
Earlier you said that you had them vented to the expansion tank, which would cause the coolant system to never pressurize properly. This will result in the coolant steaming off and in turn reduce the efficiency of the radiator.
No difference.
Martin
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
Got home for a few days, so decided to try it with the hood removed. Same thing, RPM related. RP'Ms go up, temp goes up, and up and up.....Same temp on the Autometer gauge and OBD port. At idle, fan will cycle, at higher RPM's even stood still, it wont cool it.
Forgot to mention that the header tank on a Rover is pressurized too.
Forgot to mention that the header tank on a Rover is pressurized too.
I don't recall seeing any pictures or info on the heater outlets of the pump. Are you running them to a heater, a loop or blocking them off..
If blocking them off, IIRC that can cause problems and the system / thermostat to work correctly needed the flow. Not sure if this is related to your problem or not.. but I thought I'd ask.
BC
If blocking them off, IIRC that can cause problems and the system / thermostat to work correctly needed the flow. Not sure if this is related to your problem or not.. but I thought I'd ask.
BC
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
Sorry for the delayed response, been working away for a few months.
Yes the heater core is hooked up and working perfectly. I actually thought of blocking it off with a looped piece of heater hose, but if thats a bad idea I wont bother. Does it make a difference what way they are hooked up? The heater core has nothing going to it, besides the coolant. No valves etc in line. Would the orientation of the hoses make a difference?
It now runs up to 235 when the rpm's are up.
I dont see any issues with the flow (restriction wise), and the fan is kicking on when requested.
I'm about ready to rip the motor out, seeing as I never opened it up when I got it.
There is also a guy that can come up here and run a wide band o2 on it, and dial it all in. I just dont see it being an ecm issue though, and think the money would be better spent AFTER the cooling issue is resolved.
Going to drain some coolant and undo the top hose, and then turn it over to make sure I get coolant shooting out of the top hose when removed.
Any other ideas before the thing gets pulled out, either for a HG job, a new head and cam kit, or a new motor.
Martin
Yes the heater core is hooked up and working perfectly. I actually thought of blocking it off with a looped piece of heater hose, but if thats a bad idea I wont bother. Does it make a difference what way they are hooked up? The heater core has nothing going to it, besides the coolant. No valves etc in line. Would the orientation of the hoses make a difference?
It now runs up to 235 when the rpm's are up.
I dont see any issues with the flow (restriction wise), and the fan is kicking on when requested.
I'm about ready to rip the motor out, seeing as I never opened it up when I got it.
There is also a guy that can come up here and run a wide band o2 on it, and dial it all in. I just dont see it being an ecm issue though, and think the money would be better spent AFTER the cooling issue is resolved.
Going to drain some coolant and undo the top hose, and then turn it over to make sure I get coolant shooting out of the top hose when removed.
Any other ideas before the thing gets pulled out, either for a HG job, a new head and cam kit, or a new motor.
Martin
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Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 276
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
Removed the top hose and started it up.
At idle, next to no flow, at @2k RPM's, flow. Not a lot though IMHO.
Not scientific by any means, but I would have thought the water pump should have been throwing coolant out like no tomorrow at 2k RPM's??
It's an Escalade water pump, to get the neck right for the LS6 intake and TB cable.
Martin
At idle, next to no flow, at @2k RPM's, flow. Not a lot though IMHO.
Not scientific by any means, but I would have thought the water pump should have been throwing coolant out like no tomorrow at 2k RPM's??
It's an Escalade water pump, to get the neck right for the LS6 intake and TB cable.
Martin
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
Thanks Andrew, although I couldnt tell you which is the top and bottom of the heater core, hose wise under the hood!
I could pull the glovebox and mark them, but it's just 2 hoses going to and from the heater core, could it make a difference??
Contacted ATK and Texas Speed, regards their parts (TS) and complete engines (ATK)
Martin
I could pull the glovebox and mark them, but it's just 2 hoses going to and from the heater core, could it make a difference??
Contacted ATK and Texas Speed, regards their parts (TS) and complete engines (ATK)
Martin
Thanks Andrew, although I couldnt tell you which is the top and bottom of the heater core, hose wise under the hood!
I could pull the glovebox and mark them, but it's just 2 hoses going to and from the heater core, could it make a difference??
Contacted ATK and Texas Speed, regards their parts (TS) and complete engines (ATK)
Martin
I could pull the glovebox and mark them, but it's just 2 hoses going to and from the heater core, could it make a difference??
Contacted ATK and Texas Speed, regards their parts (TS) and complete engines (ATK)
Martin
I would look in your manual and see which is which on your header core. I don't know if it makes a difference, but every vehicle I've had does designate an IN and OUT for the heater core, which leads me to think that there is a difference. On my Cougar the heater core hoses are stacked vertically and the bottom is the inlet and the top is the outlet. This makes intuitive sense so that air bubbles are purged.
The issues you are having seem to indicate a poorly purged system or a system that somehow get's air into it. That's just my gut feeling from reading this thread.
I normally don't run a purge tank (not to be confused with an overflow tank) (although I know this is best) so I am not super familiar with how a purge tank system is supposed to be routed. I always make sure that my radiator fill is the top point in the cooling system, but this is not required with a surge tank.
Maybe this will help:
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 276
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
The heater core is from an Audi A6, a great swap for a Range Rover. No more o rings, is 1/4 of the cost, fits perfectly. etc
I can have a look and see top and bottom, or just swap the two hoses around, which is easy enough to do.
I have bled it numerous times, fitted the bleed nipple, and so on, all for no improvement.
The upgraded water pump should be here in a day or three, and I an swap heater hoses at that point.
Thing is driving me nuts, it's the only thing keeping it from being a daily driver......
I can have a look and see top and bottom, or just swap the two hoses around, which is easy enough to do.
I have bled it numerous times, fitted the bleed nipple, and so on, all for no improvement.
The upgraded water pump should be here in a day or three, and I an swap heater hoses at that point.
Thing is driving me nuts, it's the only thing keeping it from being a daily driver......
In my experience the LS engines just aren't that difficult to keep cool, so the upgraded water pump seems overkill. I just looked up pictures of a P38 RR and it seems to have a huge front grill that should flow a ton of air. I guess keep us posted.
Andrew
Andrew
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
Not huge per say, but big enough IMHO.
I was very unimpressed with the output of the existing water pump, so a new one wont hurt I dont think.
Will keep you posted either way though.
Martin
I was very unimpressed with the output of the existing water pump, so a new one wont hurt I dont think.
Will keep you posted either way though.
Martin
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
Well, installed the PRW 1434620 water pump yesterday, as seen here..
https://www.prw-usa.com/product/1434...et-alum-pulley
Testing in the shop, it appeared to have solved the problem. Engine temps went down when held at @2k RPM's, instead of up.
The bad news is, the pulley they installed at the factory came off the pump, snapped the belt, and the engine is now not smelling too good. I would guess at head gaskets at a minimum. The joys of driving on 2 lane roads, in the dark, no where to stop. Mind, I didn't think I had to be too picky about my driving route neither, seeing as it was bled and checked over in my garage before leaving.....
Contacted PRW about it, see what they say.
Like I said though, initial testing says it totally fixed the problem! Mind, it also had a belt making it go round and round at that point too.....lol
Martin
https://www.prw-usa.com/product/1434...et-alum-pulley
Testing in the shop, it appeared to have solved the problem. Engine temps went down when held at @2k RPM's, instead of up.
The bad news is, the pulley they installed at the factory came off the pump, snapped the belt, and the engine is now not smelling too good. I would guess at head gaskets at a minimum. The joys of driving on 2 lane roads, in the dark, no where to stop. Mind, I didn't think I had to be too picky about my driving route neither, seeing as it was bled and checked over in my garage before leaving.....
Contacted PRW about it, see what they say.
Like I said though, initial testing says it totally fixed the problem! Mind, it also had a belt making it go round and round at that point too.....lol
Martin
Martin,
Do you ever step outside and find yourself immediately struck by lightning?
Let me get this straight. You got the new water pump, installed it, it solved your problem, but during the test drive the pulley came off and you couldn't stop, so the engine overheated and now you have a blown head gasket?
Do I have that right?
Andrew
Do you ever step outside and find yourself immediately struck by lightning?
Let me get this straight. You got the new water pump, installed it, it solved your problem, but during the test drive the pulley came off and you couldn't stop, so the engine overheated and now you have a blown head gasket?
Do I have that right?
Andrew
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 276
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
Andrew, no lightning yet, but some days.....
Thats pretty much it mate. Bled it, held the revs @2k for a while and the engine temp went DOWN! Great news...
Then ran into town, about 15 miles of back road, and on the way back I'd guess, on curvy 2 lane road with no shoulder, temps went through the roof. Belt was gone and the pulley was resting on the crank pulley!
Coolant everywhere, CEL on with overtemp code, and so on. Not tested it yet as I have something else in thr shop right now, but will later today hopefully. Got the battery charging now as the Rover is a power hungry pig when the battery isnt being charged.
Will find out what bolts it had in it, get some and a new belt (have to measure again) and see how it sits. But I cant see how the heads arent blown myself.....
No reply from the water pump people yet, but for the price of it, the @#$%ing bolts should have been tight!
Martin
Thats pretty much it mate. Bled it, held the revs @2k for a while and the engine temp went DOWN! Great news...
Then ran into town, about 15 miles of back road, and on the way back I'd guess, on curvy 2 lane road with no shoulder, temps went through the roof. Belt was gone and the pulley was resting on the crank pulley!
Coolant everywhere, CEL on with overtemp code, and so on. Not tested it yet as I have something else in thr shop right now, but will later today hopefully. Got the battery charging now as the Rover is a power hungry pig when the battery isnt being charged.
Will find out what bolts it had in it, get some and a new belt (have to measure again) and see how it sits. But I cant see how the heads arent blown myself.....
No reply from the water pump people yet, but for the price of it, the @#$%ing bolts should have been tight!
Martin
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 276
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From: Mid Mo via Lancs. England
Pulled the cooling fan and got the pulley off. Found one bolt, and one is snapped in the pump. The pulley is no longer flat, surprise surprise. So I have contacted PRW regards a warranty on it. Will let you know what they say.
Should be cut and dry, but never dealt with them before....
Martin
Should be cut and dry, but never dealt with them before....
Martin