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Yeah, its quite a bit away from vertical. Im pretty sure there is tons of room as it sits. If we get to the bearing this weekend, you can check it out and make sure I am not missing something.
Well it's not a cheap lesson, but I'm sure you'll be much happier with a hydraulic clutch anyway. Is your PCM location going to give room for A/C unit/vents? I know my factory system occupies a lot of that space with ducting.
It allows plenty of room for a Vintage Air evaporator - we took measurements using my setup. He's running the center vents in the console (pic a couple posts ago).
happier with the hyd setup yes but I was trying to save some money and do it later but oh well. Im more pissed about the incorrect information when we specifically went over it all. lesson learned.
Also got a little crazy. I am not a fan of switches in the dash but I needed to relocate the line lock from the console. I also decided to run the exhaust cutouts from a switch rather than keyfob. when I redid the dash for the Dakota Digital...I added some filler to clean it up a bit so it was close as far as depth of the switches but I think it will be a cool spot for switches.
computer loc-there is a bunch of room under there now with the stock heater stuff but I will eventually go vintage and I have briefly looked at trevors when he had the dash pulled. I think it will be good for a/c duct but I guess we shall see.
Had to order a new boot for the clutch push rod but I got it mocked up for the most part. I did have to do some cutting to get the bolt head to clear the pedal bracket.
Been struggling for my lower rad hose a bit. I have the speedway rad and I didnt realize the lower inlet was 1 3/4" and its also at a weird angle. The hose I found today is 85-95 chev truck. Basically end up cutting it in half. Its not perfect but I think its doable. Top hose was money first shot. its a little lose on water pump side. Here are part numbers
ok, worked on the throwout bearing setup today. Man, Mcleods instructions SUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK. My tolerance is way out and I have emailed them to see how to fix. I do have a question maybe someone here can answer. What the hell is this ring for? This is the Mcleod 1364 bolt on to tko600.
Last edited by 70NovaSS; Sep 20, 2015 at 10:09 PM.
Well it's not a cheap lesson, but I'm sure you'll be much happier with a hydraulic clutch anyway. Is your PCM location going to give room for A/C unit/vents? I know my factory system occupies a lot of that space with ducting.
Hookem approves this location. lol I think the pic makes it hard to see but I showed him the other day in person and he said it will work great.
Well, i am waiting on a shim for the throwout bearing. That will put me within my tolerance. Had to order a pushrod boot for the firewall. Got that installed today and bolted up the booster etc. so far I have great clearance for the hyd fluid res. Starting to come along...AGAIN
Last edited by 70NovaSS; Sep 25, 2015 at 01:09 PM.
yeah right!!!! lol Now that I am more on "normal people" hours, I will get back on it and get caught up with adding pics to the site. I have a few to update
Well, it has been awhile since I have posted on here. New job had me slackin. I will catch up soon but for now...fast forward to the first fire.....
Had NicD put a fresh base tune in for my setup, allowing to start and function without dying on me. The only way the car fires is with starting fluid and I have ZERO throttle control. Did a little testing with hookemdevils and didnt see anything crazy yet. Since I welded on the pedal, I figured I would start with the pedal sensor just to eliminate that as a problem. Replaced that tonight and still no fire. I am pretty sure it is somewhere between the pedal, tac module and the throttle body. I did have to extend the wiring for tac module so we may have to check that again. The harness is out of a 05 gmc...matching module, pedal and harness. I decided on ls2 tb and used the torque rush adapter. Now that you know the setup...here is a pic of the codes we pulled.
I'm sure there are multiple things to look at, but I recently fired up my ls2 swap for the first time. It fired right up and idled great but no throttle.
Ended up two pins were swapped in the ECM connector.....
Get the pin-outs for your pedal and ECM and double check.
speaking of the pedal pinout...I did have to make a new harness but I was VERY meticulous with wire color/location. Here is what I wrote down and I have found some things on the intenet to back it but there are a couple things that seem a bit odd but I never moved any of the plugs.
Nope! Injectors won't fire at startup. They're getting 12v with key on/start, but something is preventing the ECM from signaling them during start. We've got fuel pressure and spark. Most of the codes have been fixed, but it's still throwing TPS codes, if I remember correctly.
It seems as though the truck TB is responding better than the LS2 TB he swapped on, so I think he was planning to buy a 3-4 bolt adapter plate to bolt it to the LS3 intake.
Just thinking out loud here - Are you sure you're getting power at the injectors during crank? I seem to recall some of the wiring circuits on these cars go dead during crank and only have power with key on/run. Also are you sure you're grabbing key-on power from a circuit that does not include a resistor (i.e. original points power)? That might also cause the other codes for TPS.
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