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1.Are you saying you had trouble with the factory truck manifolds? Or the the c6 manifolds?
2.Did you keep the stock radiator and what did you use for a shroud? i have not made my mnid up on if i will keep the mechanical fan or go with like a ford taurs 2 speed elec fan.
3.were you able to retain the driveshafts without having to have them redone.?
Thanks for all the info guys keep it coming.
Last edited by Project101; 08-29-2015 at 04:17 AM.
Truck manifolds wont work - I forget which side, but one side has major interference. The C6 manifolds were the ones I used but had some clearance issues with the mounts. I used an ebay alum radiator that came with a fan on my first conversion but on the second I used an ebay rad with a taurus fan and volvo relay. I was able to tweak the position of the motor to re use the stock front driveshaft. For the rear I did a sye and used a stock length sye. Swap 1 was an ax-15 and swap 2 is a 700r4. I haven't finished swap 2 yet but so far I am using a stock length rear driveshft with a sye. I havent measured out the front yet.
Drivers side truck manifold wont work, ive tried like hell even cutting off the collector but the collector end of it kicks out away from the engine which puts it way too close to the frame rail to work with the jeep. I used a set of edelbrock ls1 camaro shorty headers.
This jeep already had a tpi350 in it. The past guy put a aluminum v8 swap radiator in it for the sbc so i reused it, it did have a little cheesedick elec fan on it but i threw that in the garbage and am running a stock truck clutch fan which i will be building a shroud for.
Im having new drivelines made. This one had a stupid tcase drop deal on it with transmount that had washers and all sorts of hackery done to it. I replaced the mounts, took the tcase drop out, modified the skidplate/trans crossmember to clear the drivelines and clear the oil pan on the 700r4, and set the engine at 5% down in the back. Going to have cv type drivelije made for rear and front needed to be lenthened like an inch or so plus the one in it is bent. Front shaft has to be like a 1" or so tube because of oil pan clearance.
i dont think running just one cat is an option for me in CA i will have to find a way to run two. from what i understand if the vehical came with two cats then i have to have two cats to pass at ref station. ill find away.
but thanks for all the advise the more i learn from you guys the less time /money i will spend wich in turn makes for a better marrige.
i know i asked once already but if you guys dont mind what are you guys paying for a 5.3/4l60 with harness and computer?
Last edited by Project101; 08-29-2015 at 03:50 PM.
So, what do you think it should cost a person to have this conversion done at a shop or by someone who does conversions? When you add up all the hours and nickel and dime stuff as well as major parts costs and consider all the hours of finding the right parts, driving to pick them up and every job is different for a myriad of reasons. What I really want to know is, how much would the labor be?
THIS IS ONLY AN EDUCATED GUESS SO DONT BLAST ME GUYS.
i would guess 6k to 8k in labor , in my mind not worth it if you have to pay. if you can afford to have this done buy a jk and have AEV put in a cummins isb that would be if money was not a problem those things are sick, but i could never bring myself to spend that kind of money on a jeep. , even though i love jeeps, i love the idea that i get to build them more.
with that said i have a square body chevy 4 door /cummins next on my list to build
Drivers side truck manifold wont work, ive tried like hell even cutting off the collector but the collector end of it kicks out away from the engine which puts it way too close to the frame rail to work with the jeep. I used a set of edelbrock ls1 camaro shorty headers.
This jeep already had a tpi350 in it. The past guy put a aluminum v8 swap radiator in it for the sbc so i reused it, it did have a little cheesedick elec fan on it but i threw that in the garbage and am running a stock truck clutch fan which i will be building a shroud for.
Im having new drivelines made. This one had a stupid tcase drop deal on it with transmount that had washers and all sorts of hackery done to it. I replaced the mounts, took the tcase drop out, modified the skidplate/trans crossmember to clear the drivelines and clear the oil pan on the 700r4, and set the engine at 5% down in the back. Going to have cv type drivelije made for rear and front needed to be lenthened like an inch or so plus the one in it is bent. Front shaft has to be like a 1" or so tube because of oil pan clearance.
Got any pics of the Jeep? I'm putting a 6.0/4l65e/np241C in my 1995 YJ and I want to run the stock manual fan. I'd rather not deal with electric fans if i don't have too. Plus, I'd rather use the parts I have, not buy anymore.
I have more than plenty of room between the fan and the radiator on this one. Probably would of been good to move everything an inch forward but there was something that kept me from doing that but i cant remember what it was off the top of my head.
Ok so it has been a few months , came home for a few weeks now I'm gone again.... Hard to get stuff done when your not at home.
I did mange to build a fence fix wife's car and start building bumpers for my jeep.
So sense that last time I was here I went on the hunt for a 5.3/4l60e with little to no luck ,
And while on a trip I found a pre pulled 5.3/4l60 $2k more than I wanted to spend, and 3hour drive away!!! Luck was on my side that day I checked good old craiglist and sure enough their was a 04 1500 4x4 $1200 , I even drove it before I dropped the engine/trans and evrything else I took ��
Here it is $1200
Cats , I'm going to have to make it smog legal
Turns out the truck was actually and 03
Hard to see here but I bent up some new tube for my roll cage, I ended up getting rid of the 45s on both side and copying what u see on the pass side and then welded in a cross tube to the rear<br/>
Dang some of the pics don't match the captions.
Well I be home in a few weeks I'll post pics of the bumpers and finished cage and running engine stand . I'm so stoked to have the project going!!
So what are you guys running for gears ? I'm think 4.88 (37s dd)
I will be taking 3hr drives to sand dunes @ 75/80mph pulling dirt bikes
Thoughts . I need someone with real world experience ,
On paper the math comes out to 4.66 so 4.56 then I was told to go the next deeper for all the added weight of bumpers/tires.
Guys with 5.3/4l60 please add ur 2cent. I needs it
Go with 4.88's
On my sfa swapped s10 blazer with a 4.3v6, 4l60e, 36's i went 4.88 and am very happy that i did. If your going to be towing with it that is a big enough reason alone to go 4.88 over 4.56 for that little bit of extra uumph.
Im swapping to 1 ton axles in my blazer and trying to decide if i want to stick with the 4.88 or step up to 5.13's.
I have done a few jeeps with swaps and would say if your going to be running 37 then go with the 488 have done 2 jeeps 5.3 4l60 on 35s with 456 and worked perfect and if they had been on 37s with full gear might be lacking a lil
Thanks, i spotted some gears on good old craiglist . Their yukon gears 4.88 he said less than 500 miles on them he was asking $140 and I offered $100 then he came back with $120. Isn't that expensive for used gears . I'm going to come back with $110, I think more than that and I'm over paying. I can get new gears from motive gear for $150 + ship more like 160
BTW this is for the front . I plan on running new gears in the rear. I say that now till I find a deal on used.
I didn't mention this before but I snagged a d44 from a full size jeep
With locking hubs. It cam with 273 gears . Boooooo . the price was right though. I'll post pics of it when I'm home n a few weeks
Last edited by Project101; 01-31-2016 at 08:24 AM.
So he bit on 110 for the gears , looks like they have More than 500 miles on them, and I was hoping sense they came out of a rear 44 that the coast side would have little yo no wear, but coast side and drive side were booth polished so I hope that I can keep them quite when I install them.
The box says yukon but the gears say dana
Hard to tell from this pic but both side coast and drive are polishe