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It's been a hot min . But work picked up a bunch and I will be gone for a few months,
But I drove the jeep around the block for the first time, I was unable to close the hood , I still need to build a intake tube that fits.
Here is my tank with factory Chevy tank pressure sensor. Drilled it and pushed it in ..too easy. And you can see i mounted the factory Chevy fuel sender to the jeep pump assembly with some sheet metal screws.<br/>Oh and I installed a walbro 400 pump!<br/>I have plans for more HP!
I ended up mounting up my hydro boost unit. I wasn't planning on it but I had to fit the factory gm fuse block. And the vacuum booster was in the way.
I didn't set it up the way I wanted to but. I used the steel I had and some other parts .
Good news is that Dana 44 spindle nuts are the same thread and the keyed spacer fit perfect.
Ended up bolting a flat piece of 1/4 plate to the factory bracket then hole sawed a hole in the center , using a Dana 44 spindle washer with key to clock it. Turned out pretty good . now to mount the PCM /tac model and fuse block, then hydro lines .
Next time I pull it apart I'll try and get some pics
Last edited by Project101; 01-22-2017 at 10:33 PM.
I went to the pick your part looking for a disc to disc prportioning valve which I got.
But In the process I spotted a square body Chevy with hydro boost and one look at those lines and I was confident they would fit . Went to the local parts house , $15 ,18 for pressure hoses ���� . I had to do a bit of bending but it worked out great. I as well ditched the jeep factory fuse box , it was super corroded and gross. So I used the Chevy under hood fuse box for everything . And I'm super proud of how it turned out it's super clean. It's right next to the booster with the plastic square cover.
Hard to see In this pic
One of the pressure lines was super close the the core support rod , but I'm comfortable with it.
And I forgot to mention that I swapped out the jeep master for a vette master I had from another project.
The jeep master piston had recessed hole that the rod coming out of the hydroboost couldn't full depress, which gave me super long peddle travel and poor braking. Vette master bolted right up and kicks ***. Hydro boost is the BOMB, it doesn't care about the 37s
Oh and I had to rebuild the hydroboost . Super easy $30 dollar kit (
Pirate jack brakes)
If you have questions PM me.
Last edited by Project101; 02-07-2017 at 09:17 AM.
This might be important to future jeep guys so pay Attention and I searched the web for this info and it was easy to find the formula but not easy to find the answer .
OLDER STYLE JEEP TACH 87-91 for a 6 cylinder , should be the same for a 4 cyclinder but if not try 12/12 for high / low res .(steel encased one.) in order to work with Chevy PCM
Mine btw is a P59 03 Chevy 1500
1. you need a pull up resistor 1k ohm(I'll post a pic from lt1swap)
2. In HPTUNERS. Make sure to select pull resistor for tach settings.
Set high resolution to 6
Set low resolution to 6
This got me within 50rpm . But its really hard to say usuing an analog tach it might
be dead on. This is what I did .<br/>With PCM set to pull up resistor <br/>High res (6<br/>Low res (6<br/>Oh and this was a 6 cylinder tach as well
So I'm on my trip and I won't be home for a few months and I miss my jeep. I am still planing and dream building though. I odered 35splne cut to fit shafts for the rear.( bore dana60 spindles to fit 1.5" shafts ) spartan locker to follow. Also bought a used 4x4 4l80e from an 03 Chevy 2500, I'm ditching the 4l60e . I have some Ambitious WHP goals so the 80e will be required .more to follow on that in the months ahead when I get home
[I]Sweet pic right . That's my brother in laws Jetta wagon, (shop rig) LOL[/I