2000 Durango SLT 4x4 LS Swap-Build thread
11-17-2016, 09:08 PM
#101
TECH Addict
BTW, the NP242 has 2wd mode so you can run it on a normal dyno..
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge...er-cases/np242
According to this^^^^^^
The 242 has a driver's side front output and centerline rear output. The NP242 features two ranges; a low range gear that is a respectable 2.72-to-1 low and a direct-drive in high range. It features three drive modes; 2wd, full-time 4wd and part-time 4wd, yielding:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge...er-cases/np242
According to this^^^^^^
The 242 has a driver's side front output and centerline rear output. The NP242 features two ranges; a low range gear that is a respectable 2.72-to-1 low and a direct-drive in high range. It features three drive modes; 2wd, full-time 4wd and part-time 4wd, yielding:
- two-wheel-drive, high (direct-drive)
- four-wheel-drive, high (48/52 differential torque-biased-drive)
- four-wheel-drive, high (locked, part-time)
- neutral
- four-wheel-drive, low (locked, reduction-drive)
11-18-2016, 01:57 PM
#102
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11-19-2016, 07:14 AM
#103
Since installing the wiring harness in my build, I have had nothing but trouble. Initially, I ordered an E67 PCM with harness, but after talking with the tuner, I was encouraged to use an E38. This was based on his experience, having tuned many LS3 with supercharger conversions (LSA, Magnusson, Procharger, etc.). So he already had plenty of repository files to choose from.
I contacted the vendor, who hadn't started my harness yet, and asked for a change. He thought I should stick with the E67, but agreed to build what I wanted.
When I first installed the harness, I had no PCM at all. A couple of phone calls to the vendor resulted in some troubleshooting tips, but now it was time to delve into the problem.
Consider the following information a technical review of troubleshooting the wiring harness. I am by no means an expert at wiring, and can't stand how tedious it is. Especially when the wiring harness is wrapped up tight with such a beautiful loom, and a complete mystery inside.
From day 1, I had no PCM. Busting out the wiring diagram from lt1swap.com, I found pin 47 on the 53-pin connector to my E38 didn't have power at all. Diagram shows it should have switched power KEY HOT. I ran a jumper wire down to the wire near the connector, cut into the harness, and soldered it on. Low and behold, the PCM woke up.
After getting the truck up and running, I noticed it was stuck in 3rd gear limp mode. The TCM was not able to be scanned at all. I pulled the connector to the transmission, and found correct power and ground on all of the pinouts. My tuner called the harness supplier, but was not offered any troubleshooting tips that were helpful. We also found that the BUS wires to the transmission were swapped. So we had to fix those, but this still didn't resolve the issue.
So.....I called around. No one wants to mess with someone else's wiring, but Jared at Current Performance finally agreed to help. Even though his company was getting an LT1-swap (the new LT1) ready for the ls-fest, he did take the time to look at my problem. For some reason, he found that one of the 12v leads to the transmission would show voltage, but had almost no amperage, so it "pulled down" the voltage when the TCM tried to power up. No way to bust into the harness and repair it, since it is buried deeply behind the engine, he ran a bypass wire to this and hacked in to the harness near the connector.
Ok, PCM and TCM up and running, and 2 or 3 weeks wasted. Total cost at this point: $150 to the tuner for a garage visit to try to scan and flash the PCM and TCM, $150 to Current performance for wiring repair, $80 for a tow truck to get it there.
Now we moved on to tuning. After driving it for quite some time, we noticed the fans were not coming on. The tuner enabled the low fan at 192, and engine showed well above that at 210+, but no fan trigger. So I resorted to using a light switch from Home Depot to trigger the fan by jumping the relay. Guess I would have to put that on my list as well.
Fast forward several weeks. I would periodically grab my multimeter and probe some things, use jumper wires to bypass stuff, and study the wiring diagrams. Then I would get frustrated and stop for a while. I continued to drive the truck, and just used wires to jump the relays for fan and fuel pump. Oh, I forgot. The fuel pump never triggered appropriately. It is commanded to come on for 2 second prime, then shut off until it sees crank trigger. This didn't work at all, either.
So a friend is helping me probe all of the wires, and we are finding no continuity for the fuel pump, fans, etc. from the PCM to relays. He felt his way along the harness from the fuse/relay panel to the PCM, and noticed a weather connector under the liner in the inner fender well. When I installed the harness, I put this in the fender well, then reinstalled the plastic cover over it. Totally forgot it was there. And there it was. The problem. The weather connector was wired backwards, so the fuel pump lead was connected to the pin 47 power lead, the pin 47 lead was connected to the fuel pump lead, and the fan leads were connected to...something else.
Fuse/relay panel.
Testing in progress.
Location of the weather connector in the fender well, plastic liner removed.
Weather connector as it was installed. This was part of the harness as it arrived. It connects wires from the fuse/relay panel to the PCM.
Notice the wires are switched. What a hassle that was.
I guess I should have removed the harness, instead of trying to troubleshoot it in place. But that would be hours of work to disassemble the top of the engine, remove the supercharger, and fish it all back down through the firewall, and around the transmission and exhaust. A daunting task. Oh, well, could've/should've but at least the problem is solved.
I contacted the vendor, who hadn't started my harness yet, and asked for a change. He thought I should stick with the E67, but agreed to build what I wanted.
When I first installed the harness, I had no PCM at all. A couple of phone calls to the vendor resulted in some troubleshooting tips, but now it was time to delve into the problem.
Consider the following information a technical review of troubleshooting the wiring harness. I am by no means an expert at wiring, and can't stand how tedious it is. Especially when the wiring harness is wrapped up tight with such a beautiful loom, and a complete mystery inside.
From day 1, I had no PCM. Busting out the wiring diagram from lt1swap.com, I found pin 47 on the 53-pin connector to my E38 didn't have power at all. Diagram shows it should have switched power KEY HOT. I ran a jumper wire down to the wire near the connector, cut into the harness, and soldered it on. Low and behold, the PCM woke up.
After getting the truck up and running, I noticed it was stuck in 3rd gear limp mode. The TCM was not able to be scanned at all. I pulled the connector to the transmission, and found correct power and ground on all of the pinouts. My tuner called the harness supplier, but was not offered any troubleshooting tips that were helpful. We also found that the BUS wires to the transmission were swapped. So we had to fix those, but this still didn't resolve the issue.
So.....I called around. No one wants to mess with someone else's wiring, but Jared at Current Performance finally agreed to help. Even though his company was getting an LT1-swap (the new LT1) ready for the ls-fest, he did take the time to look at my problem. For some reason, he found that one of the 12v leads to the transmission would show voltage, but had almost no amperage, so it "pulled down" the voltage when the TCM tried to power up. No way to bust into the harness and repair it, since it is buried deeply behind the engine, he ran a bypass wire to this and hacked in to the harness near the connector.
Ok, PCM and TCM up and running, and 2 or 3 weeks wasted. Total cost at this point: $150 to the tuner for a garage visit to try to scan and flash the PCM and TCM, $150 to Current performance for wiring repair, $80 for a tow truck to get it there.
Now we moved on to tuning. After driving it for quite some time, we noticed the fans were not coming on. The tuner enabled the low fan at 192, and engine showed well above that at 210+, but no fan trigger. So I resorted to using a light switch from Home Depot to trigger the fan by jumping the relay. Guess I would have to put that on my list as well.
Fast forward several weeks. I would periodically grab my multimeter and probe some things, use jumper wires to bypass stuff, and study the wiring diagrams. Then I would get frustrated and stop for a while. I continued to drive the truck, and just used wires to jump the relays for fan and fuel pump. Oh, I forgot. The fuel pump never triggered appropriately. It is commanded to come on for 2 second prime, then shut off until it sees crank trigger. This didn't work at all, either.
So a friend is helping me probe all of the wires, and we are finding no continuity for the fuel pump, fans, etc. from the PCM to relays. He felt his way along the harness from the fuse/relay panel to the PCM, and noticed a weather connector under the liner in the inner fender well. When I installed the harness, I put this in the fender well, then reinstalled the plastic cover over it. Totally forgot it was there. And there it was. The problem. The weather connector was wired backwards, so the fuel pump lead was connected to the pin 47 power lead, the pin 47 lead was connected to the fuel pump lead, and the fan leads were connected to...something else.
Fuse/relay panel.
Testing in progress.
Location of the weather connector in the fender well, plastic liner removed.
Weather connector as it was installed. This was part of the harness as it arrived. It connects wires from the fuse/relay panel to the PCM.
Notice the wires are switched. What a hassle that was.
I guess I should have removed the harness, instead of trying to troubleshoot it in place. But that would be hours of work to disassemble the top of the engine, remove the supercharger, and fish it all back down through the firewall, and around the transmission and exhaust. A daunting task. Oh, well, could've/should've but at least the problem is solved.
03-18-2018, 12:18 PM
#105
OK guys. Time for a long-term drive update.
The Durango has been running phenomenal. After replacing 2 ECM and sorting out the wiring, I am out a total of $650 to repair the brand-new wiring harness supplied by BP Automotive. In the end, I ended up replacing the harness with a Current Performance harness, so I guess I will keep this one to use on something else.
Thanks to Jared at Current Performance and Chris at CHENRY Motorsports for helping with this!
Anyway....
I get a lot of questions about the intercooler setup. Stock air hat, 2 dodge heater cores, 2 spal fans, and a bubba keg. Works great. Today, I ran in 86 degree Florida weather for almost an hour, and never saw IAT > 95 degrees. Even with several hard WOT pulls on this 4800 lb truck. IAT rises a little after each pull, but drops right back down in a minute or so.
I also get asked about going to the track, but probably won't. It has 31 inch BFG tires, and 3.55 gearing. But it pulls like crazy with the AWD and Detroit Trutrac. Just a good, all-around grocery-getter. I'm happy with it.
Well, that's about it. I am taking it to some cars N coffee events in Tampa, so if you are in the area you may see it.
I wish everyone the best with all of their projects!
The Durango has been running phenomenal. After replacing 2 ECM and sorting out the wiring, I am out a total of $650 to repair the brand-new wiring harness supplied by BP Automotive. In the end, I ended up replacing the harness with a Current Performance harness, so I guess I will keep this one to use on something else.
Thanks to Jared at Current Performance and Chris at CHENRY Motorsports for helping with this!
Anyway....
I get a lot of questions about the intercooler setup. Stock air hat, 2 dodge heater cores, 2 spal fans, and a bubba keg. Works great. Today, I ran in 86 degree Florida weather for almost an hour, and never saw IAT > 95 degrees. Even with several hard WOT pulls on this 4800 lb truck. IAT rises a little after each pull, but drops right back down in a minute or so.
I also get asked about going to the track, but probably won't. It has 31 inch BFG tires, and 3.55 gearing. But it pulls like crazy with the AWD and Detroit Trutrac. Just a good, all-around grocery-getter. I'm happy with it.
Well, that's about it. I am taking it to some cars N coffee events in Tampa, so if you are in the area you may see it.
I wish everyone the best with all of their projects!
08-29-2018, 12:43 PM
#106
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (27)
Very cool build. This answers my question about using a truck pulley and the LSA supercharger. Sorry if I didn't catch it earlier in your build, but how much boost are you running on the stock pulley?
