67 Skylark Convertible
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
They are a great deal now. I paid $380.00 back in 2012. Mine is more rectangular than yours. Not sure if both are available. They sent me the one like yours first and requested one as in the pictures and they replaced it. Lifetime warranty and made in the USA
Here are a couple pics of mine.
Here are a couple pics of mine.
There is a difference with the newer versions of the universal dash. The "volt" and "temp" read as "elec" and "H2O" on mine. I called to see why my was reading this way and they said that is the newer software and are working on a lightbar version that will allow more type to be added.
I picked mine up direct from Intellitronix through their eBay store for I $170 refurbished with a full warranty.
Yours came out real nice.
love that dash cluster. I was going to go with the Dakota digital chevelle cluster and make it fit my dash but that sure seems like a better alternative for the bucks. Is it a generic piece or specific to what you're doing?
It's universal. It also has 1/4 mile, 0-60, high speed recall. I have not got it on the road yet but everything seems to work as it should. For the money they are pretty Nice. Made in USA too.
yeah, I checked out their site and it's about half the cost of the Dakota Digitals. Looks like it would be pretty easy to make the plate to fit it in as well. I have all the sheetmetal massaging things you need(brakes, shears, slip rolls and an English wheel) to make about anything I need so I might just give it a shot. I like the white display I think! Thanks for the heads up on them.
yeah, I checked out their site and it's about half the cost of the Dakota Digitals. Looks like it would be pretty easy to make the plate to fit it in as well. I have all the sheetmetal massaging things you need(brakes, shears, slip rolls and an English wheel) to make about anything I need so I might just give it a shot. I like the white display I think! Thanks for the heads up on them.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 346
Likes: 7
From: Tampa, FL
Is this car still in your shop? How did the Mast pan work out? Driveline angles, inner tie rod ends ect. How far was engine mounted from the firewall? Post some picture, we all love to see your hard work!
Well as for a shop we are limited, I was on vacation around the middle of October for a week + and then got back to get roped into a cruise for a week and then get back to have to rebuild the tranny in my work van so it has been crazy. Oh yeah my shop.......sort of what you would call an open concept clutter with more crap then I can fit. LOL
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So today's mission is to get the exhaust kit on and hopefully get it running good. For some reason it was running really rough when we fired it, and had codes for the DBW but I forget to record the log so by the time I got to the laptop it had refreshed the screen and they went bye bye, which wouldn't be so bad if it was running. Also, need the key Kevin so get out of bed and wobble over, unless your waiting for the UPS delivery with the new EFI system!!
Oh yeah, the Mast pan is really a nice piece, the problem with the swap parts is you really need to match everything your using as one kit, mounts exhaust, pan etc. We have big block mounts from a chevelle and they set the motor really far forward so the tie rod just bumps the pan at full lock. If the mounts were maybe small block mounts (I think they are positioned somewhat back more), then the pan would fit really well. The driveline angle came out really good around 3 degrees on each end roughly.
Did a power steering and alternator relocation bracket from Speedway, Camaro water pump with spacers and I modified the tensioner to fit, mounted a 16" electric fan to the radiator, got the aluminum fuel rails fitted with brackets I made and fuel system all plumbed with an external Walbro 255 and a sweet regulator filter in one deal that holds a steady 58psi.
Well here is where I'm at, was getting the motor fired up and ran into several issues. First it was misfiring really bad and had no pedal response. Found the driver side coil ground had not been connected to a good ground location, solved. Pulled the injectors tors and there was a ton of trash in the tops of them, swapped. Got everything fired up and just runs super rough. Following day go through and finally get pedal working and once the throttle is cracked a bit it will hang between 4500-5200 RPMs. O2 sensors not showing they are switching properly. So now I have pulled the complete engine harness back out and completely stripped down to inspect every inch of every wire (SO MUCH FUN). Found the MAP wires had minor pinch but not cut so cut, soldiered and heat shrink on those. Around 12 o'clock last night for the life of me I could not grasp the O2 wiring. 4 tan wires originally spliced together and 5 wires going to PCM. I could not wrap my brain around there is 2 tan wires from B1S1 at the PCM but only 1 from the sensor. YUP! So finally it came to me that splice the 2 wires coming from the sensors and add a third tan from one of the post sensors and done! Good times. So today will be putting the harness back into the car and locating the PCM inside somewhere as I am not a big fan of it being in the engine bay.
Out with the old OEM modified harness that has been the death of this car!!
PSI Conversion DBW truck harness (HAR1014)!<br/>Really nice quality made piece.
Back on the Skylark again. Hoping to have this wrapped up in the next week or so.
