LM7/NV3500 240SX Coupe swap (Boring build)
#22
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1996 or 1997 Chevrolet Silverado 1500. It had a 305/5.0L. If you check out the wikipedia page for the NV3500 it will list the years of Chevy trucks it came in. The S10 and Dodge boxes won't work. I don't specifically remember why the V6 S10 trans don't with but I think it has something to do with the tail shaft
#23
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Got the new pilot bearing in last night (the Centerforce 43001 was the correct part) so I am finally able to start re-assembly. Besides torquing down the clutch bolts (I'm getting some replacement spring washers today) it's ready to go back in.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...210_173400.jpg
For the Wilwood Clutch Master cylinder, I used a 90* end on the -3AN line, but it was a little tall, plus the angle of the fluid bung comes right out at the crease on the firewall. There is already a u-shape in that crease, but I had to turn the crease down some more and also make a dent for the 90* fitting. I'm pretty sure you can get around this by using different fittings, but hammering the firewall a bit doesn't bother me at all.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...208_211308.jpg
Slave/TOB before:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...209_153648.jpg
After/installed: My vice is broken and I have a 1UZ block that I want to make a coffee table out of, so I just bolted the slave to the Lexus block to drive the pin out of the pressure side of the slave. Shadetree for sure!
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...0240SX/TOB.jpg
The Hooker headers were on sale so I just went ahead and ordered them. Notice the gap in the pipes... the steering rack goes through the middle of the headers. The less-pain-in-the-*** method is to pull the entire column out of the car, and since I already had the dash out, that's what I did. My car was 100% running and driving less than two months ago, I've really torn the poor thing apart. Hopefully this is the most 'apart' it will ever be.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...0_175132_1.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...210_182926.jpg
Still only have one arm but my friend may come over tomorrow to help me drop it back in.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...210_173400.jpg
For the Wilwood Clutch Master cylinder, I used a 90* end on the -3AN line, but it was a little tall, plus the angle of the fluid bung comes right out at the crease on the firewall. There is already a u-shape in that crease, but I had to turn the crease down some more and also make a dent for the 90* fitting. I'm pretty sure you can get around this by using different fittings, but hammering the firewall a bit doesn't bother me at all.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...208_211308.jpg
Slave/TOB before:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...209_153648.jpg
After/installed: My vice is broken and I have a 1UZ block that I want to make a coffee table out of, so I just bolted the slave to the Lexus block to drive the pin out of the pressure side of the slave. Shadetree for sure!
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...0240SX/TOB.jpg
The Hooker headers were on sale so I just went ahead and ordered them. Notice the gap in the pipes... the steering rack goes through the middle of the headers. The less-pain-in-the-*** method is to pull the entire column out of the car, and since I already had the dash out, that's what I did. My car was 100% running and driving less than two months ago, I've really torn the poor thing apart. Hopefully this is the most 'apart' it will ever be.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...0_175132_1.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...210_182926.jpg
Still only have one arm but my friend may come over tomorrow to help me drop it back in.
Last edited by FlatBlack; 07-18-2017 at 09:32 AM.
#24
On The Tree
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Got it running!
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...220_123447.jpg
Ran into two issues:
I have a slow leak from the M16x1.5 to -6AN power steering fitting on the pump. The An side is fine, it's the M16 thread that's the issue. Tried using teflon tape but there is still an occaisional drip.
My engine won't run correctly, it's something related to the harness and the fuel load. It'll only run on the MAP, if I plug the MAF in it goes really rich and tries to die. Started a thread but no one has offered any advice. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...lm7-240sx.html
Really happy I'm back on the road but I just want to do a good burnout!
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...220_123447.jpg
Ran into two issues:
I have a slow leak from the M16x1.5 to -6AN power steering fitting on the pump. The An side is fine, it's the M16 thread that's the issue. Tried using teflon tape but there is still an occaisional drip.
My engine won't run correctly, it's something related to the harness and the fuel load. It'll only run on the MAP, if I plug the MAF in it goes really rich and tries to die. Started a thread but no one has offered any advice. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...lm7-240sx.html
Really happy I'm back on the road but I just want to do a good burnout!
Last edited by FlatBlack; 07-18-2017 at 09:32 AM.
#25
TECH Addict
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Do you have the coolant temp sensor connected to the pcm? If the temp sensor isn't working or isn't connected the pcm thinks the temp is something like -35 degrees and you will run rich. And if that is the truck maf the iat(intake air temp sensor) is built in so that could also be a problem if it is reading incorrectly. I would also check for vacuum leaks cause i seen in your video at one point it was idling at 1500 rpms.
Last edited by gagliano7; 12-21-2015 at 10:32 AM.
#26
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To troubleshoot yesterday, I also disconnected the MAF sensor signal wire and left the IAT wires plugged in (it registered on my OBD2-fed gauges but didn't fix the issue), so I don't think that's the problem. Whenever the MAF signal wire gets plugged in, the MAF reading and load goes way up and it makes it super rich
I'm wondering if it's the automatic tune now.
#27
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The wiring and general state of things under the hood were pretty poor, I basically just threw stuff in there to get it running. Spent about 3 hours cleaning up the harness, routing things, and making sure nothing was moving around.
I want to get the filter down under the hood, but this is all that I could get locally. Overall pretty ghetto right now, but the car is so loud the big truck intake sticking out of the bay will be the last thing people notice.
I want to re-loom the harness so that the fuse block and ECU are in the cabin, but I'll deal with that after everything is functioning 100%
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...221_162317.jpg
I want to get the filter down under the hood, but this is all that I could get locally. Overall pretty ghetto right now, but the car is so loud the big truck intake sticking out of the bay will be the last thing people notice.
I want to re-loom the harness so that the fuse block and ECU are in the cabin, but I'll deal with that after everything is functioning 100%
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...221_162317.jpg
Last edited by FlatBlack; 07-18-2017 at 09:33 AM.
#28
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NV3500s could have either a 3.49/2.16/1.40/1.00 or 4.02/2.32/1.40/1.00, and either could have any of the 3 possible OD ratios, but the 0.73:1 is best.
If I wanted a manual transmission for this swap, I'd get a FS5R30A, the Z32 version is best, but even the one from a Nissan V6 2WD pickup could be used.
Adapting one to a SBC is easy, but those have a 12.75" flywheel available.
If I wanted a manual transmission for this swap, I'd get a FS5R30A, the Z32 version is best, but even the one from a Nissan V6 2WD pickup could be used.
Adapting one to a SBC is easy, but those have a 12.75" flywheel available.
#29
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Eh, for $400 including the clutch, TOB, and driveshaft, I think it's a pretty good deal. For the Z32 trans you need to find a good trans, then buy a $300+ adapter, and a swap flywheel. at some point you're getting close to T56 territory. I'd be worried about how much the N/A Z32 trans could handle anyways.
#30
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IF the LSx flywheel fits in the FS5R30A bellhousing, then adapting it is under $50 if you DIY. The NA version is exactly the same as the turbo version, both are good to 600 HP, and if you spent $400 on a NV3500 then you got cheated, they go for $75. Z32s don't turn up in Pick-N-Pull every day, but when they do, their trans is also $75. Their shifter is closer to the correct location, their ratios are better, and their shift throws are shorter and easier.
So settling for the weaker NV3500 just because it bolts to the engine seems questionable.
So settling for the weaker NV3500 just because it bolts to the engine seems questionable.
#31
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IF the LSx flywheel fits in the FS5R30A bellhousing, then adapting it is under $50 if you DIY. The NA version is exactly the same as the turbo version, both are good to 600 HP, and if you spent $400 on a NV3500 then you got cheated, they go for $75. Z32s don't turn up in Pick-N-Pull every day, but when they do, their trans is also $75. Their shifter is closer to the correct location, their ratios are better, and their shift throws are shorter and easier.
So settling for the weaker NV3500 just because it bolts to the engine seems questionable.
So settling for the weaker NV3500 just because it bolts to the engine seems questionable.
You also need to match the input splines with the clutch disk, so it'll be a mixed-part clutch setup, assuming you can find a TOB that is the right size. I don't even understand what you're trying to argue here, that a bolt on setup designed to go on this engine is inferior to some hodge-podge Nissan frankenstein setup? I mentioned earlier in this thread that I fully understand the consequences of using a 'weak' trans, and that this project was set up to be cheap and easy, which it was.
I don't know where you live, but here Z32s and any Chevy manuals are picked apart within days of hitting the junkyard.
Anyways, Merry Christmas bro
#33
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http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...&1450898291587
Last edited by FlatBlack; 07-18-2017 at 09:33 AM.
#34
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Congratulations on getting the car running. Have you thought of running a ls1 intake manifold? You can modify the truck accessory bracket to clear the ls1 intake manifold. If your ever thinking of going the Z32 transmission route I have the LOJ adapter on my car. They also offer a Z33 transmission option. Everything is made in the USA. I was unsure if you were aware of this option just figured I'd share it with you.
http://www.lojkits.com/collections/n...ission-adapter
http://www.lojkits.com/collections/n...ission-adapter
#35
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Congratulations on getting the car running. Have you thought of running a ls1 intake manifold? You can modify the truck accessory bracket to clear the ls1 intake manifold. If your ever thinking of going the Z32 transmission route I have the LOJ adapter on my car. They also offer a Z33 transmission option. Everything is made in the USA. I was unsure if you were aware of this option just figured I'd share it with you.
http://www.lojkits.com/collections/n...ission-adapter
http://www.lojkits.com/collections/n...ission-adapter
That's exactly my point though, that's $900+ shipping just to put the trans on your engine, then you have to go find one and hope it's reasonably priced and in working condition. That'sT56 territory considering the adapter kit and cost of a Trans.
The NV just bolts on, no adapter plate needed. I wouldn't mind a Z33 trans, but I haven't seen those go for under $500 really.
#36
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1996 or 1997 Chevrolet Silverado 1500. It had a 305/5.0L. If you check out the wikipedia page for the NV3500 it will list the years of Chevy trucks it came in. The S10 and Dodge boxes won't work. I don't specifically remember why the V6 S10 trans don't with but I think it has something to do with the tail shaft
#37
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The Nissan unit has much smaller gears than a T56 or Nv3500. Forks prone to wear and they use roller bearings Vs. tapered bearings that I am not too fond of having as a performance option unit.
#38
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I ordered a Walbro 255 and pieces to fab up a custom Y-pipe. I was attempting to use the stock Nissan fuel pump but it's probably not going to cut it at 43 PSI (stock KA24DE rating). The new fuel pump should be waiting for me when I get back home tomorrow, and Thunderstruck gave me some spare truck O2 sensors, so hopefully I can fix my bank 2 O2 sensor issue.
#40
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So my fuel pump has been in Austin since Wednesday, but the silly holidays got in the way and it won't be delivered until Monday
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
Anyways, found out why my bank O2 sensor wasn't working - the C100 Pin C wasn't hooked up to 12+ switched, so part of the RUN/START circuit on my PCM wasn't getting power. I now have fuel trims! Fuel trims went crazy high (58%) and stayed the same when revved to 2500 RPM, which from my internetting tells me it's a fuel delivery problem not a vacuum leak.
Dropping the pump in on Monday and hopefully doing sweet gnarly burnouts
![Burnout](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_burnout.gif)