57 Nomad Project
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Gotcha thanks that's who will be making my fuel tank for me anyway.
Here's a link to the convulated Teflon tube (like OEM) and just use oetiker clamps which they also sell.
http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?...atus=0&Tp=&Bc=
Here's a link to the convulated Teflon tube (like OEM) and just use oetiker clamps which they also sell.
http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?...atus=0&Tp=&Bc=
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 173
Gotcha thanks that's who will be making my fuel tank for me anyway.
Here's a link to the convulated Teflon tube (like OEM) and just use oetiker clamps which they also sell.
http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?...atus=0&Tp=&Bc=
Here's a link to the convulated Teflon tube (like OEM) and just use oetiker clamps which they also sell.
http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?...atus=0&Tp=&Bc=
Thanks.........I ordered a variety of tubes and some braided stainless Teflon hose..........that will ease my nervousness about the rubber be submersed ,.....
Ken
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
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Aftermarket fuel system in my car was one of the early versions made for it and issues were had with both the wiring and submerged fuel hose - the hose was rated for fuel but not submersion apparently. Braided stainless line I'd be nervous about submerging and even Teflon lined hose. You want something meant to live in fuel not just flow it. Thankfully the guys working on my car had a stock of both having seen the issue but I was curious about sourcing wire. I'll try to find out what hose they used, it's a 996 Porsche and the tank has an octopus of that corrugated plastic stuff. It stiffens and cracks after about ten years (shrug)
The OEM tubes are made of some type of plastic like the Racetonrix ones. Are you asking how the tubes are secure to the nipple? Use oetiker clamps. I know the OEM tube was sort of heat shrunk onto the nipple but the Racetronix ones will use a Oetiker clamp. The hose is defintely rated for submersion.
Clamps
http://www.racetronix.biz/searchresu...SW=Oetiker&Tp=
Here's another source for the hose but I wouldn't use the clamps pictured:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Submersibl...bing-P672.aspx
Clamps
http://www.racetronix.biz/searchresu...SW=Oetiker&Tp=
Here's another source for the hose but I wouldn't use the clamps pictured:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Submersibl...bing-P672.aspx
Last edited by Petraszewsky; Mar 18, 2016 at 07:56 AM.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2008
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The OEM tubes are made of some type of plastic like the Racetonrix ones. Are you asking how the tubes are secure to the nipple? Use oetiker clamps. I know the OEM tube was sort of heat shrunk onto the nipple but the Racetronix ones will use a Oetiker clamp. The hose is defintely rated for submersion.
Clamps
http://www.racetronix.biz/searchresu...SW=Oetiker&Tp=
Here's another source for the hose but I wouldn't use the clamps pictured:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Submersibl...bing-P672.aspx
Clamps
http://www.racetronix.biz/searchresu...SW=Oetiker&Tp=
Here's another source for the hose but I wouldn't use the clamps pictured:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Submersibl...bing-P672.aspx
Because I had to cut the factory feed tube and extend it.....My plan was to use the Braided fuel line and clamp it around the cut off factory hose end that is sealed and glued to the fitting on the pump......so.....To be more comfortable and go with the original design with an extended soda straw.....I want to make some plastic adaptors to assemble and glue over the original tube at the coupler end that will accept the new extended soda straw tube..........
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Verdad Gallardo Gotcha... I was thinking of you cutting the tube off the nipple with a razor blade (a hot blade and patience works) and then warming up the new tube end to slip over the nipple and secure with a Oetiker clamp. The factory one isn't glued on it more of a heat shrink kinda deal. It's on there very secure like that alone and the new tube will be very snug as well but the Oetiker clamp will hold without fail.
(Not my pictures just using for example)
(Not my pictures just using for example)
Last edited by Petraszewsky; Mar 18, 2016 at 01:09 PM.
Thread Starter
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Gotcha... I was thinking of you cutting the tube off the nipple with a razor blade (a hot blade and patience works) and then warming up the new tube end to slip over the nipple and secure with a Oetiker clamp. The factory one isn't glued on it more of a heat shrink kinda deal. It's on there very secure like that alone and the new tube will be very snug as well but the Oetiker clamp will hold without fail.
(Not my pictures just using for example)
(Not my pictures just using for example)
I'll try cutting it off.......Thanks
Thread Starter
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You guy's are the "Best".........Like I said....I always make simple things very complicated.........In my mind I assumed the Hose ends were glued on ........Thanks to Petraszewsky I made a right turn and thought about what he said.........all my agonizing about working around the cutoff hose ends was resolved in about 45 seconds.....It seems the hose ends are just heated and pushed on.......My Gosh!!!.....Sometimes I get so mad at myself for "Assuming" I know about this stuff......New Lines are on their way......
Good deal...glad it worked out well for you. Those Oetiker clamps will secure the new tune without fail. There is a special crimped for the clamps but a pair of these style wire cutters can do the job if you don't want to buy the crimper.
A five minute phone call or email and you would have all the parts you need + the tech
I have all of the corrugated/flexible hoses, clamps, wire, terminals for fuel level sensor plug, etc to make the mods.Also, what is the material used for the heat shrink tubing? If you don't know you may want to take a piece of the same wire, shrink a piece of tubing on to it, and soak it in fuel to confirm compatibility (many are not.) A glass jar with a steel lid (baby food, jelly, etc.) works well. A nylon insulated butt connector can also be used with good results. We've ben using them on some late model fuel modules.
You may also find that the standard 5/16" cuff on most of the aftermarket flexi-hoses are pretty tough to get on to the barbed Gen5 module connections. I have some 10mm versions that are easier to deal with. For your application a splice would likely be needed since the hoses are about 8" long.
Lookin' good!
Last edited by CarlC; Mar 23, 2016 at 02:42 PM.
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Isn't that the ring I sold you Ken? The hole in the plate should be 6-3/8" so that the ring seats flat to your nicely fabricated plate.
A five minute phone call or email and you would have all the parts you need + the tech I have all of the corrugated/flexible hoses, clamps, wire, terminals for fuel level sensor plug, etc to make the mods.
Also, what is the material used for the heat shrink tubing? If you don't know you may want to take a piece of the same wire, shrink a piece of tubing on to it, and soak it in fuel to confirm compatibility (many are not.) A glass jar with a steel lid (baby food, jelly, etc.) works well. A nylon insulated butt connector can also be used with good results. We've ben using them on some late model fuel modules.
You may also find that the standard 5/16" cuff on most of the aftermarket flexi-hoses are pretty tough to get on to the barbed Gen5 module connections. I have some 10mm versions that are easier to deal with. For your application a splice would likely be needed since the hoses are about 8" long.
Lookin' good!
A five minute phone call or email and you would have all the parts you need + the tech
I have all of the corrugated/flexible hoses, clamps, wire, terminals for fuel level sensor plug, etc to make the mods.Also, what is the material used for the heat shrink tubing? If you don't know you may want to take a piece of the same wire, shrink a piece of tubing on to it, and soak it in fuel to confirm compatibility (many are not.) A glass jar with a steel lid (baby food, jelly, etc.) works well. A nylon insulated butt connector can also be used with good results. We've ben using them on some late model fuel modules.
You may also find that the standard 5/16" cuff on most of the aftermarket flexi-hoses are pretty tough to get on to the barbed Gen5 module connections. I have some 10mm versions that are easier to deal with. For your application a splice would likely be needed since the hoses are about 8" long.
Lookin' good!
Carl.........I thought you were just the Electrical Techno Guru.......Sheesh......You are right.......I should have come the "Expert"!!!
Carl...........Think this stuff will live??
Ken, it should work but I suggest the following:
1) Compress the hat to the final installed height. Confirm that the hose does not kink/overstressed and that it will not come into contact with the tank walls.
2) Apply 60psi air to the module outlet and check for leaks on both ends of the hose using soapy water.
The J30R10 submersible hose is usually pretty spendy and does not have the bend radius that the flexi-hoses do. Though the flexi-hoses may appear like the cheapo way out, they are quite capable and can bend more than other hoses.
1) Compress the hat to the final installed height. Confirm that the hose does not kink/overstressed and that it will not come into contact with the tank walls.
2) Apply 60psi air to the module outlet and check for leaks on both ends of the hose using soapy water.
The J30R10 submersible hose is usually pretty spendy and does not have the bend radius that the flexi-hoses do. Though the flexi-hoses may appear like the cheapo way out, they are quite capable and can bend more than other hoses.
Thread Starter
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Ken, it should work but I suggest the following:
1) Compress the hat to the final installed height. Confirm that the hose does not kink/overstressed and that it will not come into contact with the tank walls.
2) Apply 60psi air to the module outlet and check for leaks on both ends of the hose using soapy water.
The J30R10 submersible hose is usually pretty spendy and does not have the bend radius that the flexi-hoses do. Though the flexi-hoses may appear like the cheapo way out, they are quite capable and can bend more than other hoses.
1) Compress the hat to the final installed height. Confirm that the hose does not kink/overstressed and that it will not come into contact with the tank walls.
2) Apply 60psi air to the module outlet and check for leaks on both ends of the hose using soapy water.
The J30R10 submersible hose is usually pretty spendy and does not have the bend radius that the flexi-hoses do. Though the flexi-hoses may appear like the cheapo way out, they are quite capable and can bend more than other hoses.
I've got about 5/8" of compression built into the pump at final assy and the hose is fine with no kinks.......I'll do the leak test
Thanks
Ken
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