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Got some more work done tonight.
I finished most of the wiring harness and tried to keep everything as hidden as possible.
I also swapped the fuel pump for a 255 and converted it to a return system for my boost ref regulator.
Then I bolted on the manifolds and turbo to figure out where to put the O2 sensors and wide-band.
Here is the turbo drain with the hose, hopefully I won't need a scavenge pump. The hose is the picture is a 3/4" ID on the drain, so that would be a -12
Made some progress this weekend. Put the fuel pump back in and bent some new 3/8" steel fuel lines. I hooked them up and jumped the pump with a battery charger to test for leaks and everything looked good.
I also figured out O2 sensor placement (2 regular and 1 wideband)
This allowed me to finish up the wiring harness. I enlarged a hole for the clutch pedal and I think I can fit the PCM under the steering column.
I painted all the hot side pipe with high temp paint and I started on an alternator bracket. After this I think I am ready to drop the motor back in.
Here you can see the crossover pipe clearance. I think it looks good.
Last edited by Dave3891; Mar 13, 2016 at 10:41 PM.
It has been a good weekend. Got the radiator hooked up, made the charge pipes, nothing it leaking! If it wasn't for the snow on the ground I would be test driving it. I also did some work on the tune with HPtuners.
Did some road tuning today, the wastegate is at 5PSI for now and I am slowly leaning out the AFR to the proper ratio.
The only problem is that I think I am having false knock causing timing retard...
I can't hear any pinging from the engine, but it is hard to hear with only a dump pipe for exhaust. But with such low boost and running 93 octane I would think it is false?
You could try running it with some race gas and seeing if the registered knock is maintained. That should at least help determine whether it's false knock or some mechanical issue present. Does HP tuners have a knock sensitivity adjustment if you determine it's false? Awesome build! Looking forward to more updates.
Well I installed a new 340lph pump since the 255 died on me.
I think it is a tank vent problem since this pump randomly loses pressure as well under high load...
Any other ideas why the pump(s) would randomly lose pressure then seem fine when restarted?
But I did manage to work on the tune a bit and get a proper burnout video this time
So you mean add 4 degrees to 0.8-1.20? So I should be around 12-14 degrees under boost?
I was going to suggest the same 4 degree bump from 1.04 and up, but from .8 to 1.0, add 6 degrees instead and smooth in from .80 up to 0.56.
This will work great up to 12-14 PSI on pump gas. If you plan on going higher, I wouldn't do it without the help of water/meth. That stuff has saved my *** so many times that its getting pointless to count.
Thought I should add an update to this. Everything is running great, just finished installed a high stall converter and it made the car drive a lot better.
Only minor issue is that I get a vibration sound only at highway speed, 10 under/over it doesn't do it and it only seems to happen when I have the throttle in a certain position (Right where I need to cruise). Not sure if it is exhaust since I can't seem to find where it is hitting or if it is an issue due to the hard bushings I used for the motor mounts.
Anyway here are a couple video's, one is a couple pulls and the other is just after installing the converter and testing the Denmah style trans lock.
Great build! I really dig the manifold and turbo/drain positioning...
What did you go with specifically converter wise?
Thanks, I am pretty happy with how well the drain works. I was worried that I might need a scavenge pump but it has been draining great as is.
The converter is a TCI street fighter that I got from a guy that just had it rebuilt (he worked for a transmission shop) and increased the stall a little. It seems to be around 3800-4000rpm
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